pam niedermayer
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Speaking from personal experience, you don't need huge hands nor is it uncomfortable, feels quite natural and good.
Pam
Pam
Old homemade Plane
- Thread starter motownmartin
- Start date
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engineer one
Established Member
so alf did you ever get an dismantling drawing for the mole???
or even some kind of manual. i have undone all the screws i think :?
now need to know what else to whack, thump or push :roll:
paul :wink:
or even some kind of manual. i have undone all the screws i think :?
now need to know what else to whack, thump or push :roll:
paul :wink:
Alf
Established Member
Paul 'fraid not. Mine worked like a dream. Can't recall if I ever took it apart, but I'll try and remember to have a look. If you don't hear from me by this time tomorrow then best give me a prod. I would hazard a guess that there's a goodly jam of grease mixed with grit holding up the works - unless you've been walking under ladders whilst hitting black cats with mirrors, in which case it might be much worse... But you don't want to listen to me. :wink:
Cheers, Alf
Cheers, Alf
engineer one
Established Member
thanks mate, fortunately no ladders, black cats etc.
however i let the plus gas work a lot longer, and then discovered
that thumping the main drive shaft loosened things up, so i now have it in a couple of pieces.
looks like the biggest problem is the gunge in the uppermost oiling /greasing points. so a little soaking and then we'll check.
looks like the main drive wheel may be sintered metal, although it could have plastic teeth, will check later .
will get back to you with more details and it working i hope??
paul :wink:
however i let the plus gas work a lot longer, and then discovered
that thumping the main drive shaft loosened things up, so i now have it in a couple of pieces.
looks like the biggest problem is the gunge in the uppermost oiling /greasing points. so a little soaking and then we'll check.
looks like the main drive wheel may be sintered metal, although it could have plastic teeth, will check later .
will get back to you with more details and it working i hope??
paul :wink:
engineer one
Established Member
ok so have it all kind of de grunging on the bench. started out with plus gas, which i have found fantastic for loosening the screws and shafts.
also very good for loosening the chip breaker screws :roll:
anyway later will photo the whole dismantled thing and then put it back together and do a couple of stage photos. sure it will be of some value.
it really is a very simple unit in terms of its parts and the whole design.
not sure what would be the widest wheel it will take. wonder whether it would take one of the irish wheels??? the red one.
paul :wink:
also very good for loosening the chip breaker screws :roll:
anyway later will photo the whole dismantled thing and then put it back together and do a couple of stage photos. sure it will be of some value.
it really is a very simple unit in terms of its parts and the whole design.
not sure what would be the widest wheel it will take. wonder whether it would take one of the irish wheels??? the red one.
paul :wink:
engineer one
Established Member
alf another thought, what do you lubricate with, oil or grease??
paul :wink:
paul :wink:
DaveL
Established Member
Paul,
Does it have oil seals? If you put oil in and there are no seals it will come out quite quickly. :x
How about using the trick Royal Enfield used in their gear boxes? :-k
Does it have oil seals? If you put oil in and there are no seals it will come out quite quickly. :x
How about using the trick Royal Enfield used in their gear boxes? :-k
engineer one
Established Member
as an ariel red hunter man dave don't know squat about enfields :lol:
actually the reason i asked was that i was thinking about using one of the dry greases not available.
the top shaft has 3 oil holes and sliding clip nipple covers and i assume a built in seal. in big red letters the body of the machine says oil regularly :?
as for the main shaft am looking carefully at that. since it is low speed, i reckon the modern greases may be the way to go. :roll:
paul :wink:
actually the reason i asked was that i was thinking about using one of the dry greases not available.
the top shaft has 3 oil holes and sliding clip nipple covers and i assume a built in seal. in big red letters the body of the machine says oil regularly :?
as for the main shaft am looking carefully at that. since it is low speed, i reckon the modern greases may be the way to go. :roll:
paul :wink:
DaveL
Established Member
AH well I am (was) a BSA Gold Flash man, but I have ridden and spannered lot of old mainly British bikes. 
Enfield used a grease oil mix, the gear box was packed with a measured amount on assembly and then a small amount of oil added, most of it did stay in the box. :shock:
If it says oil it then give it a try but I would still grease everything as I assembled it.
Enfield used a grease oil mix, the gear box was packed with a measured amount on assembly and then a small amount of oil added, most of it did stay in the box. :shock:
If it says oil it then give it a try but I would still grease everything as I assembled it.
engineer one
Established Member
not sure that was just an enfield things burman gearboxes used to use oil, but of course bsa made their own boxes. ah the joy of selly oak products 8)
i will use the spray on grease, and then see what happens .it should be fun to work out how you hold your tool with one hand whilst you use the other in a winding motion. where have we heard that before :?
ta mate
paul :wink:
i will use the spray on grease, and then see what happens .it should be fun to work out how you hold your tool with one hand whilst you use the other in a winding motion. where have we heard that before :?
ta mate
paul :wink:
engineer one
Established Member
having cleaned up the main castings with degreaser, and plus gas, it looks more and more interesting.
it would seem that the bearing surfaces are in fact just the machined casting surfaces with drip holes for the oil, and a kind of pushed in seal.
so it would seem that it was an interesting design based on low speed use, in that the bearing surface is a lightweight alloy casting.
hopefully later today in the daylight, i can produce better photos and show how it works. very interesting idea. the main gear wheel now is definately a kind of alloy casting, not sintered as i first thought, and the spindle that turns the emery wheel itself appears to be a steel shaft which has splines cut into it which interact with the large gear wheel.
will do the counting and maths later too.
paul :wink:
it would seem that the bearing surfaces are in fact just the machined casting surfaces with drip holes for the oil, and a kind of pushed in seal.
so it would seem that it was an interesting design based on low speed use, in that the bearing surface is a lightweight alloy casting.
hopefully later today in the daylight, i can produce better photos and show how it works. very interesting idea. the main gear wheel now is definately a kind of alloy casting, not sintered as i first thought, and the spindle that turns the emery wheel itself appears to be a steel shaft which has splines cut into it which interact with the large gear wheel.
will do the counting and maths later too.
paul :wink:
engineer one
Established Member
ok as promised a couple or so photos of the mole grinder when dismantled.
as you can see it is very simple. these are the basic outer and workings, then all you have is a bunch of screws and a couple of nuts.
next to re-grease, and re assemble, then see what happens.
oh by the way i do have a grinding wheel too. :lol:
[/url]
as alf says, if you find one it is worth looking at and buying, can't see a real problem with spares. except for the screws there aren't any :? :roll:
paul :wink:
[/img]
as you can see it is very simple. these are the basic outer and workings, then all you have is a bunch of screws and a couple of nuts.
next to re-grease, and re assemble, then see what happens.
oh by the way i do have a grinding wheel too. :lol:
as alf says, if you find one it is worth looking at and buying, can't see a real problem with spares. except for the screws there aren't any :? :roll:
paul :wink:
[/img]
engineer one
Established Member
ok as agreed i put it back together.
used plus gas to dismantle, then an aerosol de-greaser to clean up the crud. left it for a few hours to air off and dry.
then i put it back together using an aerosol dry grease. went to gether really well and easily. turns without problems.
however i have discovered a problem with wheel i had. the mandrel is not quite right, and the wheel moves around a bit.
must check to see whether there are any other bits lying around.
was very surprised by how fast and for how long, the wheel turns after you wind it. i can see how alf is able to sharpen with it. forgot to count the various teeth, so have no idea of the ratio, but will look again.
so alf. how does your wheel mount, where did you get the mandrel, and is it just held by two washers and a nut on the shaft??
i would guess the company that made the stone, turret of walton on thames is no longer around, must check.
paul :wink:
used plus gas to dismantle, then an aerosol de-greaser to clean up the crud. left it for a few hours to air off and dry.
then i put it back together using an aerosol dry grease. went to gether really well and easily. turns without problems.
however i have discovered a problem with wheel i had. the mandrel is not quite right, and the wheel moves around a bit.
must check to see whether there are any other bits lying around.
was very surprised by how fast and for how long, the wheel turns after you wind it. i can see how alf is able to sharpen with it. forgot to count the various teeth, so have no idea of the ratio, but will look again.
so alf. how does your wheel mount, where did you get the mandrel, and is it just held by two washers and a nut on the shaft??
i would guess the company that made the stone, turret of walton on thames is no longer around, must check.
paul :wink:
Alf
Established Member
Paul,
Yeah, it's just a couple of washers and a nut - technology gone mad! :wink: As long as the shaft is straight and the wheel is round and sound (you checked right? Wouldn't want to hear you'd had a wheel explode in your face) then clamp the thing so the wheel is horizontal, turn it round with the nut not fully tightened and nudge the wheel into a central position. The pressure of the nut on the washers does all the wheel clamping, not the shaft. You'll probably have to still do a little truing of the wheel with a dresser once you've got it as good as you can though.
Cheers, Alf
Yeah, it's just a couple of washers and a nut - technology gone mad! :wink: As long as the shaft is straight and the wheel is round and sound (you checked right? Wouldn't want to hear you'd had a wheel explode in your face) then clamp the thing so the wheel is horizontal, turn it round with the nut not fully tightened and nudge the wheel into a central position. The pressure of the nut on the washers does all the wheel clamping, not the shaft. You'll probably have to still do a little truing of the wheel with a dresser once you've got it as good as you can though.
Cheers, Alf
engineer one
Established Member
thanks alf, interesting way to go, will try that if i can loosen the nut again :?
so far i don't think my arm is strong enough to turn it so fast that i burst the wheel.
do you have any specific grits or types of wheel you use?? a brand etc
paul :wink:
so far i don't think my arm is strong enough to turn it so fast that i burst the wheel.
do you have any specific grits or types of wheel you use?? a brand etc
paul :wink:
bugbear
Established Member
motownmartin":1vzvnkyp said:
See also...
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=18696
BugBear (bump)
