pe2dave
Established Member
No Jacob. No lines
Newbie questions.....
- Thread starter Jameshow
- Start date
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Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
You must have a degree of camber there too. It would be impossible to drive a sharp square corner of a blade, or a rounded corner of a blade, through a piece of wood without leaving a matching profile. With a cambered blade the corners don't cut at all and the shaving thins to nothing at the edges.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
No track lines and no tearout are present, when you use a double iron plane to its potential...i.e what it was designed for.
That's why I suggested the pair above, as pretty much the only folks who actually utilize its features. (and discusses/blogs/youtubes also)
Not much else out there, and certainly by none of the gurus.
It aint hard for anyone to achieve, the only difficulty might be to let go of any
fundamental beliefs they might have picked up before.
So in effect, it's easier for a newbie to set the cap close, than it is for someone who's been doing this for a few years.
That's why I suggested the pair above, as pretty much the only folks who actually utilize its features. (and discusses/blogs/youtubes also)
Not much else out there, and certainly by none of the gurus.
It aint hard for anyone to achieve, the only difficulty might be to let go of any
fundamental beliefs they might have picked up before.
So in effect, it's easier for a newbie to set the cap close, than it is for someone who's been doing this for a few years.
Another techneque you can use with a flat blade is to tilt the blade in the plane very slightly so that one corner is proud, the other recesed. Then you can take passes overlapping the strokes so that the recessed side erase the tram line from the protruding side. This is of course for the final very fine cut finishing passes. This is a useful technique if you only have a single plane and need a non cambered blade for edge jointing.
pe2dave
Established Member
Hear, all ye good people, hear what this brilliant and eloquent speaker has to say!It would help our understanding if people didn't refer to drawers as draws.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Sellers' stuff is good. What he's doing is only a gnats away from making a camber. Much the same really
pe2dave
Established Member
Not really - see his video on 'making' a scrub plane? More than a bit different.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
No I haven't I'll have a look.
I've changed my mind about my previous comment - a camber is very different from rounded corners because it gives you much greater control about how you are planing. You can go from a very thin but narrow shaving from the middle of the blade (reduces tear out) to near full width for faster removal. It's a very variable blade.
Come to think - that's also what makes the Stanley 80 so useful but you apply the variation by bending the blade with the screw.
pe2dave
Established Member
5mm gap (when pushed to one side) seems very big to me. 2 or 3 in total would allow for any expansion and look much better IMHO
Jameshow
Established Member
Another question if I may.......
How do you keep your work bench clear if tools?
I and up with tools all over the bench and end up working in the workmate...
How do you manage it to keep the work bench clear if tools?!
Cheers James
How do you keep your work bench clear if tools?
I and up with tools all over the bench and end up working in the workmate...
How do you manage it to keep the work bench clear if tools?!
Cheers James
John15
Established Member
Put away any you have finished with.
John
John
Trainee neophyte
Established Member
That's easy - have two benches. Or three. Whatever flat surface you have will automatically attract detritus, which needs to be moved to another flat surface every time you need said surface. You will spend more time moving carp than working wood. This is normal, and sensible, and everyone does it this way.
Eventually you may make some storage/shelving/cleats that is in hands reach of your normal working position. Even then, your ingrained habit will be to leave tools everywhere, and then spend 10 minutes looking for the thing that was in your hand 30 seconds ago.
Zen and the art of "Where's my $#@%ing set square!"
pe2dave
Established Member
1. Tidy bench at end of play - even if you're just going in for lunch.
2. Make sure your popular tools are 'within reach'.
Or suffer the mess
2. Make sure your popular tools are 'within reach'.
Or suffer the mess
Cabinetman
Established Member
This may help it is one I built during my stay in the US earlier this year, my one in England is a bit bigger and has more tools in it, but of course they still end up all over the bench, a tool rack like this is imperative if like me you want to lock your tools away at the end of each session, or for taking into the house to stop them going rusty. Ian
Edit, this was taken before the addition of a strap handle.
Edit, this was taken before the addition of a strap handle.
billw
The Tattooed One
I was very guilty of the "just put tools down on the bench and leave them there" tactic of workshop management. Lost count of the amount of times I spent 10 minutes looking for something because I forgot where I put it. With the cleats, I now just return stuff to its home once I've finished, or keep a minimal number of tools out.
The worst thing for being misplaced is the drill chuck key.
The worst thing for being misplaced is the drill chuck key.
