Newbie looking for advice

[johnny5]

Hi , new to the scroll saw and made my first clock today. I have an Axminster trade scroll saw and I struggled.
I used 1 inch Oak and struggled to get a decent straight cut and it took an age to finish.
I now realise that it was probably too thick for purpose/machine , please advise me if i am wrong
what is the best thickness Hardwood to use making clocks and are there any suppliers that stock a smaller Oak boards like a 15mm board , I do not have a planer to reduce the one inch boards that my local supplier sells.
Any help most welcome

 

[toesy]

Johnny5

Welcome matey, what blades are you using? and is it worth maybe to try some 20mm thick pine for starters.

Just so you get a feel for it

 

[johnny5]

Johnny5

Welcome matey, what blades are you using? and is it worth maybe to try some 20mm thick pine for starters.

Just so you get a feel for it

Thanks for the welcome
Using a Pegas no 7 blade , have since used 20mm pine today and managed that OK.
I think i may order some Olsen blades , i have heard that they are very good , are they any better than the Pegas blades ?? , if not will be looking to get some thinner Oak than the 24mm that i have and will try that.

 

[toesy]

Johnny PM your address and i'll send you a few Olson blades F.O.C,

24mm thick oak is always going to be tough going in my experience, but there are more guys in here with better experience than me who may know more.

 

[johnny5]

Here was my effort, not very accurate curves yet

 

[Chippygeoff]

Hi John. I often cut 1 inch thick oak and don't have a problem. Are you covering the oak with clear packaging tape, it makes a big difference. In your shoes I would try a number 7 flying Dutchman ultra-reverse blade, it's what I use on all my hardwoods. High speed and a good tension also help. Looking at your clock, which is very nice, I would say you were pushing the oak to hard on the curves. Hope this helps.

 

[jonluv]

Hi John,
Just to echo Chippygeoff make sure you cover with tape-. I use masking tape first then attach pattern or draw round Template and then cover with clear tape the difference it makes is amazing.

I was cutting some comfort crosses yesterday from 25mm oak and found the faster the speed the better the cut, that is if you have speed control and I seem to use FD R No 5 blades for everything nowadays

Your clock is really good I would like to cut one !

John

 

[gilljc]

I had always worked with pine (from B&Q) and never really believed in the need for parcel tape to prevent burning, BUT since I got my hands on some hardwoods, the oak especially does benefit from parcel tape it really does stop the burning! I often am cutting around half inch thick with 2/0 blades
Everyone will have their favourite blades, I have tried a few and really like the Olsen blades, and do find them easy to use, and get far less 'fuzzies' with them, they really cut cleanly, my favourites are the reverse tooth ones for fine blades, and the mach cut ones for bigger blades.
Love the pattern on your clock, and agree that it looks like you have been pushing too hard, but is probably only noticeable to trained eyes :wink: cutting thick woods takes AGES :roll:
Keep going and keep posting pics

 

[johnny5]

Thanks to everyone for their kind help and comments,
I was thinking i have the AWFS18 and have the stroke length set at 10mm, i did try setting at 20mm but it was like a bucking bronco. My saw is currently only on a foldable workbench until i move house and into my new man cave where it will be bolted down and secured to a sturdy bench, would this be contributing to my difficulty with cutting one inch oak
thanks
John

 

[Chippygeoff]

Absolutely. Last week I was at an event where the guy had a cheap scroll saw on a workmate bench and the vibration was awful. Once you get your saw firmly bolted down to a strong bench you will see a huge difference. Keep us posted on how things go with the move to the new house/workshop and if you need any advice don't hesitate to ask, there are many experienced scrollers on here only to willing to help.

 

[johnny5]

Absolutely. Last week I was at an event where the guy had a cheap scroll saw on a workmate bench and the vibration was awful. Once you get your saw firmly bolted down to a strong bench you will see a huge difference. Keep us posted on how things go with the move to the new house/workshop and if you need any advice don't hesitate to ask, there are many experienced scrollers on here only to willing to help.

Thanks Geoff , will probably wait till i move before attempting any more scroll work , hope it will be in the next few weeks.
john

 

[finneyb]

John,

This is a second attempt at posting a reply so if the first turns up somewhere you will know what has happened

I was going to ask about the stroke length - I've stack cut 45mm hardwood on that saw with 20mm stroke length. The saw is capable of 25mm easily. You may be better with 20mm stroke and cut the speed down to cut the vibrations until you get it bolted down.

Don't expect a quick cut oak is hard and 25mm thick.

I think it was Martin on here who suggested bolting the saw to a paving flag to cut vibrations down. If you do, lift by getting hold of the paving flag - that is if you can lift it.

Brian

 

[johnny5]

John,

This is a second attempt at posting a reply so if the first turns up somewhere you will know what has happened

I was going to ask about the stroke length - I've stack cut 45mm hardwood on that saw with 20mm stroke length. The saw is capable of 25mm easily. You may be better with 20mm stroke and cut the speed down to cut the vibrations until you get it bolted down.

Don't expect a quick cut oak is hard and 25mm thick.

I think it was Martin on here who suggested bolting the saw to a paving flag to cut vibrations down. If you do, lift by getting hold of the paving flag - that is if you can lift it.

Brian

Thanks Brian, Heavy lifting is out after my recent bowel surgery , I will go to the 20mm stroke length and wait till i get a sturdy bench to bolt it down onto, the vibrations were terrible on the black and decker workbench perhaps I am trying to run before learning to walk with the scroll saw, patience is something that i have trouble with , but i am learning slowly
thanks

 

[martinka]

I've had my 25" Diamond scroll saw bolted to a flagstone and then clamped to a workmate clone, and at top speed, about 1400spm, it chases me around the garage, so I have to run it between about 900 to 1100spm. When it's bolted to my bench, it's different again, but unfortunately there's never enough room on the bench to use it there.

 

[MauriceD]

Several have mentioned covering the pattern with clear packaging tape. I know I am a little thick but I have not seen clear tape only the brown type.
Is there a brand name for this sort of tape or could you use a type of Sellotape.
PS I like the clock, beyond my limits at the present.

 

[finneyb]

Sellotape is fine - clear packaging tape is wider and takes less time to cover