New workbench

[seanybaby]

My next project will be a hefty workbench. It's a pretty simple design really, breadboard ends, 2 record vices, tool tray, 4 draws with those metal runners, round dog holes, stand will be right to floor and also quite high at 980mm. Stand will also be of a knock down construction.

I decided not to over complicate the design with too many features and went for a very sturdy bench that i can move if needs be. It is also a space to store all my hand tools.

Took me 4 hours to plane, biscuit and glue the main top.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Looks good, Sean, but I think I would have been inclined to put at least one leg near to the right-hand end for a bit of extra stability and rigidity. But you could always add that afterwards if you find it necessary. Look forward to seeing it progress.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[seanybaby]

The stand size isn't finalised yet. Once i have fit both vices i will be making the stand to fit the gap. :wink:

 

[Chris Knight]

Sean,
I don't really understand why the tail vice is an issue - just leave a few inches under the top for it, it doesn't mean you have to sacrifice length on your cabinet in the lower section. You'll just lose one drawer or a bit of hight in a cupboard etc.

 

[OPJ]

Glad to see you're going for a knock-down construction but, really, this isn't fair - we're not allowed to make a nice bench at college because "it isn't a piece of furniture". :evil:

I'm looking forward to seeing this ...and perhaps stealing a few ideas for future reference! :wink:

 

[seanybaby]

I will be making the stand (draws) as big as possible thats why i'm waiting until i have installed the vices, so i know the exact biggest possible size.


OPJ - I expect you pay for your course? Of course a fancy bench IS a piece of furniture. I would go ahead with it, especially if it is the only time you are able to get good access to high quality machines. I can make whatever i want on my course. However the only piece that is marked by an assessor is a small jewelery box in the summer.

Want some help with workbenches have a browse through Lord Nibbos post https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums...s=0&postorder=asc&highlight=workbench&start=0
It gave me some good ideas towards construction. Cheers Lord

 

[wizer]

I will be making the stand (draws) as big as possible thats why i'm waiting until i have installed the vices, so i know the exact biggest possible size.

I think your missing the point? Or Maybe I am? You are wasting a lot of space under the tail vice. You could take your drawer units right up to the edge of the table. I certainly think you should have legs there.

 

[seanybaby]

I think your missing the point?

Ahh i get you, i could have the drawers AND/OR cupboards right across the whole bench? plus also making it more stable.

 

[wizer]

that's it mate, no sense in having wasted space and you'll get more support around the vice.

 

[seanybaby]

I have been thinking i would sooner have drawers rather than a cupboard. How wide can a draw be? On the drawing iv'e made it measures 1590mm however it would be a little shorter than that at around 1400mm. Is that too wide?

Having drawers only enables me to have my original 4 legs with k/d construction, instead of adding a middle partition.

 

[wizer]

what do you want to put in the drawers? How about slimmer drawers and a cupboard with very deep drawers inside? On my forthcoming workbench, I will use a cupboard under the bench to store a shop vac. Might be something to think about.

 

[Chris Knight]

Sean,
You'll also need to think about any dog holes etc. you might want in the bench top.

A long hold-down inserted in a hole will foul the drawers. On my bench long hold downs can only be used in a couple of holes between two sets of drawers. Elsewhere I can and do use shorter dogs for clamping stuff on the bench top.

 

[wizer]

A long hold-down inserted in a hole will foul the drawers. On my bench long hold downs can only be used in a couple of holes between two sets of drawers. Elsewhere I can and do use shorter dogs for clamping stuff on the bench top.

In which case, how about having your deeper drawers at the top?

 

[seanybaby]

Cheers for the advice.

I will be having 2 rows of round dog holes length ways on the bench.

I realise i will not be able to use a long hold-down.

The drawers will contain my hand tools and maybe router, jigsaw etc in the bottom bigger ones. I will be making classic draw construction with through dovetails and a ply bottom. My worry is that drawers nearly 1.5m wide could sag and produce problems. Would a muntin rail be needed in the construction?

 

[wizer]

if you are set on having drawers that wide then i'd say go with the support rail. your going to be putting heavy tooling in them.

 

[Jake]

Or stop your drawers 10-20cm or so below the bench top, leaving a gap for the vice rails, dogs, cramps, etc.

 

[wizer]

Sean I have heard great things about The Workbench Book, by Chris Shwarz. This may be a great help. With a proper hardwood bench like this, you don't want to make any expensive mistakes.

 

[Chris Knight]

Sean,
re the wide drawers:- I'd only have one or two full width drawers for light stuff (like tee squares etc that need the width. Otherwise I would have two sets of drawers of half width - you'll only find yourself dividing up the wider drawers.

If you want drawers 1.5mm wide to carry any weight, then yes a muntin is essential in my view, otherwise the bottom will sag and probably impede the opening of the drawer underneath.

 

[woodbloke]

You'll also find that a good workshop vac is essential to clean out the top drawer 'cos you'll find that all sorts of crud and cr*p finds it's way down the dog holes :lol: :lol: - Rob

 

[Jake]

Which is another reason to drop the drawers by one level...