New Shower Tray - Tile Behind or Tile To

[segovia]

Hi

What is he best approach for tiling to a new shower tray

1. Tile to floor and place shower tray against tiles
2. Fit shower tray and tile to it

Opinion is divided with my tradesmen

J

 

[Spectric]

What is behind the tiles, what type of wall ?

I have stud walls with cement board and fully tanked floor to ceiling, not really needed but I went the extra for peace of mind. The tray was fitted next, not on plastic legs and double sided tape but a proper solid wooden frame with lots of sealant on which the tray was bedded and sealed to the walls. The tiler then tiled to the tray, it is the way he liked to do showers as the tiles sit forward and provide an extra barrier to water ingress which he said is less of a problem when the tray is really solid, most issues arise with tray movement due to poor support.

 

[segovia]

What is behind the tiles, what type of wall ?

I have stud walls with cement board and fully tanked floor to ceiling, not really needed but I went the extra for peace of mind. The tray was fitted next, not on plastic legs and double sided tape but a proper solid wooden frame with lots of sealant on which the tray was bedded and sealed to the walls. The tiler then tiled to the tray, it is the way he liked to do showers as the tiles sit forward and provide an extra barrier to water ingress which he said is less of a problem when the tray is really solid, most issues arise with tray movement due to poor support.

It's, solid wall with the old tiles, rather than hack it off which would probably bring off the sand and cement we may plaster board over it and skim it.

 

[Stuart Moffat]

I agree with above, but an additional consideration is to consider the likelihood of needing to change/remove the shower tray for any reason.
No one thinks that’s likely without a whole new bathroom job but it can and does happen. If you have tiled down onto the tray then replacement is much more problematic (but still my preferred option!)

 

[Pedronicus]

I certainly would not be using plasterboard in a shower area. Shower tray with upstand let into wall and tiles run over upstand to top of tray would be my preferred option.

 

[owen]

We always board walls, fit tray upto the boards and then tile down onto the tray

 

[paulrbarnard]

I agree with above, but an additional consideration is to consider the likelihood of needing to change/remove the shower tray for any reason.
No one thinks that’s likely without a whole new bathroom job but it can and does happen. If you have tiled down onto the tray then replacement is much more problematic (but still my preferred option!)

I had this problem with a bath. Tiles over the bath. A few years later my wife wanted ceramic tiles on the floor rather than the laminate originally used. Big risk was needing to lift the bath to enable the bath panel to still fit. I just got away with it by very carefully application of the adhesive and a little bit of flex in the bath panel.

 

[Spectric]

we may plaster board over it and skim it

Avoid plasterboard, if you get any seepage then it just soaks up the water and you have a problem. Before cement board like No More Ply or Hardiebacker when you had to use Pboard then tanking was essential using

https://www.protilertools.co.uk/pro...MI5Z-sntvH_wIVjd_tCh0OOgSnEAAYAiAAEgKKofD_BwE
As I said I still use it for certainty.

 

[Bingy man]

If I’m doing the full install then I’d always tile and grout to the floor using waterproof adhesive and grout . Allow plenty of time for the tile adhesive to set before grouting and then install the shower tray on a raised base ( 18mm ply on timber supports) use treated timber and allow plenty of room to access the trap / waste . This method gives you the full width of the shower tray to square up the enclosure in the likely event the walls/ floor are out . Seal tray to tiles with good quality silicone and don’t forget to remove any protective film from the base before sealing. Allow to cure !! As above should the tray need to be removed it’s easier and is less likely to disturb the tiles.
I’ve tiled onto plasterboard many times with no issues but I always seal the p/b 1st and use only quality waterproof adhesive and grout. My point regarding Letting the tile adhesive is often overlooked due to speed and pressure to complete the work but this process traps uncured adhesive behind the tiles as the grout dries faster . The next often overlooked issue is not setting the shower tray onto a raised bed . The last one replaced was laid onto the floorboards on plywood then set in cement - the waste was falling back towards the shower as a result the smell was horrendous as it was partially blocked . About 3 days of graft as had to empty bedroom and remove floorboards in bedroom bathroom and landing. Take your time , use top quality materials and always think about maintenance.

 

[ChaiLatte]

mapei-shower-waterproofing-kit-4m2

Does that add any significant thickness to the wall?

If you wanted tile the whole wall, could you use the waterproofing kit to maybe 100mm beyond the shower enclosure and tile with no problems?

Thanks.

 

[Spectric]

Hi

The tanking kit is like a liquid membrane but with a tape for the joints and any corners adding little thickness to the wall. I put the membrane so it extended past the actual shower enclosure location and fully tiled before fitting the actual enclosure.

 

[Sachakins]

It's, solid wall with the old tiles, rather than hack it off which would probably bring off the sand and cement we may plaster board over it and skim it.

Probably better to hack off the the tiles. For the extra work it will give a better and flatter finish. You could then cement board/Hardie board then fit tray and tile onto it.

 

[John on the Wirral]

We have probably all had issues with leaky showers on an upstairs boarded floor - an old builder once told me you should never put a shower on anything but the ground floor but,of course,most of our bedrooms are on boarded floors. Personally,I make sure that the base is soumd by putting down 8mm marine ply on to the floorboards sealed in copiously with silicon and varnished several times. I then install the tray also copiously sealed in and then put the tiles on using a sealing strip which is trapped behind the tiles. Silicon goes so grubby and will eventually let you down if there is ANY movement of the tray. There is nothing worse than coming down to a flooded lounge so take you time on this job!

 

[XTiffy]

Roger Bisby from Skillbuilder Utube chanel covers this very well. Using lightweight insulated fully waterproof foam board which is designed to be tiled on. At the shower tray I use one of the angle mouldings that sits behind the tiles and lips onto the tray. I have additionally used this board on bathroom walls in my 1920 house to support and level wall areas , again avoiding hacking off which inevitably takes half the wall off! As they say do it right, do it once.
Absolutely agree with the comment to consider future changes/maintenance, including valves in the pipes to the shower etc. We are in a hard water area and shower fittings often need changing. As an aside I also use the plastic matting material to waterproof the floorboards before tiling, including under the shower tray, any leaks are at least contained.