New member overwlemed by a new 24BAO/S - 24" Thickness Planer

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I move my Myford 254S lathe around on some 1" 3mm wall hollow tubes bought locally from IS&G Steel - it only weighs ~700Kg including its metal stand so less than half the weight of your beast but I can move it around unaided - it's on an albeit building standard spec suspended workshop floor and the floor has to be spotless to ensure smooth running but it's definitely doable

The chap i bought it from is adement that its well under a tonne, the forklift we used only lifts a tonne and it lifted it (wheels were coming off the ground at points). You really think this things over 1400kg?
 
If you still have the forklift available pick it up reverse out and drive in again but locating 2 metres to the left - guess not so its rollers like the Egyptians.
While typing Egyptian this song came to mind ----- turn up the volume :)
https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervi...DE89918CD7848E2E2B12DE89918CD784&&FORM=VRDGAR
I'm concidering these for something more long term... VEVOR VEVOR 4PCS Machinery Skate Dolly, 17637LBS/8T Industrial Machinery Mover, Heavy Duty Carbon Steel Machinery Moving Skate with 4 PU Wheels and 360° Rotation Non-Slip Cap for Warehouse Workshop Factory | VEVOR UK
 
I would strongly recommend using skates to move this.
If you take off the two side covers you will see that is sits on three pads on the bottom of the main side castings
Two on the inboard side 1 on the out board side, this means there is no flat surface for the rollers to run on.
The middle section has no floor to it and you risk damaging it if you put rollers underneath it to move it side ways.
I bought one of these years ago, wonderfull monster of a machine but noisy as hell. it was moved by the guys in the workshop trying to be helpful during the delivery of another machine while i wasn't there and they managed to put the entire machine in twist.
I ended up having to dismantle the whole machine and rebuild it from the ground up piece by piece to get it back into alighnment.
 
I would strongly recommend using skates to move this.
If you take off the two side covers you will see that is sits on three pads on the bottom of the main side castings
Two on the inboard side 1 on the out board side, this means there is no flat surface for the rollers to run on.
The middle section has no floor to it and you risk damaging it if you put rollers underneath it to move it side ways.
I bought one of these years ago, wonderfull monster of a machine but noisy as hell. it was moved by the guys in the workshop trying to be helpful during the delivery of another machine while i wasn't there and they managed to put the entire machine in twist.
I ended up having to dismantle the whole machine and rebuild it from the ground up piece by piece to get it back into alighnment.
I've ordered the skates I linked to above. Thanks for the input.
 
Thank you for your reply and help, here is the only information I have found on the machine so far:
View attachment 170532

Re: the Machine Number 24BAO/S 67105 - the 24 appears to indicate its width and the BAO/S is the model number. The 67 is believed to be the year it was made, and the 105 is effectively the serial number.

As a side note, Wadkin's Green Lane Works in Leicester mostly started any new model at serial number 105 :)dunno:). However your machine is the product of one of the former Bursgreen factories (despite what the tag suggests), and I have no evidence that they had the same policy.

BAO:S.png


Cheers, Vann.
 
Re: the Machine Number 24BAO/S 67105 - the 24 appears to indicate its width and the BAO/S is the model number. The 67 is believed to be the year it was made, and the 105 is effectively the serial number.

As a side note, Wadkin's Green Lane Works in Leicester mostly started any new model at serial number 105 :)dunno:). However your machine is the product of one of the former Bursgreen factories (despite what the tag suggests), and I have no evidence that they had the same policy.

View attachment 171098

Cheers, Vann.
WOW - Thanks Vann,

So potentially, this is 56 years old and the first one off the production line?
 
WOW - Thanks Vann,

So potentially, this is 56 years old and the first one off the production line?
56 years old - almost definitely. First off the production line - not likely as it isn't a Green Lane machine, but remotely possible.

Cheers, Vann.
 
However, with a machine that size, you can probably accommodate a pallet truck which is a far better tool for moving something like that around with. You can get one with a 2.5 tonne capacity secondhand for very little.
I'd agree with deema. I bolt my heaviest machines down to pallets, then it's easy to move them around with a pallet truck (or even your fork lift).
 
Me again!!!

So, she’s up and running! But I have a lot of questions, if anyone can help then I’d be very grateful.

IMG_5489.jpeg

IMG_5497.jpeg


This switch was disconnected. The wires inside are you joined together, I believe this switch changes the direction on the power/rise up/down?

5E891161-5D0E-48E3-86A5-1F05B2475E6B.jpeg

This nut was also missing which again I believe is the lever that controls the raise and fall of the thicknesser. I’ve tried both and they do work, is there a reason someone would have discounted these?

IMG_5494.jpeg

Could someone please confirm what this lever does? I’m guessing some kind of speed control but I can’t seem to work out what it’s changing the speed of?

IMG_5498.jpeg

Last question, are these to lock the table heights?
 
Last edited:
Going from memory
Picture 1/2 the two speed switch should be for the two feed speeds for the thicknesser feed. you need to check that the motor has not been replaced for a single speed at some point and that is why the switch has been bypassed, or it might be that someone has burned out one of the windings in the two speed motor and has re wired it for single speed on the remaining wiring. You should find 9 wires in the box 3 from supply 6 going to the motor.
Picture 3 needs a nut preferably a lock nut as there is no possible reason not to have one.
Picture 4 the longer lever on the right if for the power rise and fall the shorter one on the left could be to change between raise and lower. or to disengage the feed drive look inside the casing and see if is connected to an electrical switch or a mechanical switch but i think the former.
Picture 5 these lock the planner tables in position for operation, they slide outwards Horizontally to give you access to change the planner knives.

Sorry about the inconclusive answer to Picture 4 there is only so much one remembers after 23 years
 
Going from memory
Picture 1/2 the two speed switch should be for the two feed speeds for the thicknesser feed. you need to check that the motor has not been replaced for a single speed at some point and that is why the switch has been bypassed, or it might be that someone has burned out one of the windings in the two speed motor and has re wired it for single speed on the remaining wiring. You should find 9 wires in the box 3 from supply 6 going to the motor.
Picture 3 needs a nut preferably a lock nut as there is no possible reason not to have one.
Picture 4 the longer lever on the right if for the power rise and fall the shorter one on the left could be to change between raise and lower. or to disengage the feed drive look inside the casing and see if is connected to an electrical switch or a mechanical switch but i think the former.
Picture 5 these lock the planner tables in position for operation, they slide outwards Horizontally to give you access to change the planner knives.

Sorry about the inconclusive answer to Picture 4 there is only so much one remembers after 23 years

Thank you for your reply, I'm confident that the 3 way switch (1-0-2) changes the direction of the Rise/Fall - I just don;t understand why they would have unwired it.

The lever on the right appears to engage the rise/fall - I will put a lock nut (again don't know why it didn't have one) possibly it fell off.

The lever on the left put tension on the belts inside, I just can't work out what they're changing, maybe the feed rate but its not enough to notice the change in speed.
 
had almost the same, 20-22" if I remeber, then had to sell all my Wadkin gear to move here.....
great piece of kit......
the cutter shaft bearings on mine were self centering ball bearings.....mine were full of old dry grease....the drive side got a little warm initially so investigated.......those bearing are a fortune to replace so check em out for the hell of it......
I used plenty of brake cleaner spray with a tiny straw tube to soften the old grease and wash em out then decent high metling point grease from a g/gun.....
when I was using it all day long it got 1 pump of grease first thing and again after lunch BUT do not over do it.....bearing that are over packed with grease DO NOT roll they can skid leaving flat spots on ur balls......nasty...
no need to take anything apart.....
the only other thing I did was to get the ribbed feed roller covered with white rubber to stop the marks ....I was working huge amounts of Oak....
bought 2 extra sets of blades to keep working.....
my machine had stood a while and the belts were stiff so replaced em with qual made items.....after the initial adjustment they were not touched in the 17 years I owned.....
ps... I made a lot of money with it and sold it for double the price.....never spending on it other than reg maint.......
irriplaceable now u've got it.....u lucky boy....
Now I have the machine up and running I'm going back through posts for more insight. Where would you add the grease? Is there a grease nipple somewhere?

When you say you had the feed rollers covered with white rubber... how? - I've only tried a couple of pieces through it but it is getting stuck when about 3/4 of the way through and when pulled or pushed to help it i'm getting black lines?? - Presumably from the rollers?
 

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