New backsaw build.

[swagman]

I recently finished building this Carcass Saw. The saw handle is made from Mallee Red Burl timber. The saw blade is 14" x 3" in depth. Its been sharpened 14 tpi; crosscut tooth profile with a 20 degree fleam.
I hope you enjoy the photo's.

Regards Stewie.

 

[Richard T]

Beautiful.

I like the way the handle looks welded up underneath.

 

[swagman]

Beautiful.

I like the way the handle looks welded up underneath.

Thanks for the feedback Richard. I am not quite sure of what you mean exactly. Could you explain a little further.

Stewie.

 

[jimi43]

That is saw porn Stewie! :mrgreen:

You guys down under have a wonderful selection of really exotic woods...that Mallee is one of the most attractive woods I have seen...I need to look out for some.

You are very brave working a burr like that...most people wouldn't even attempt it. Did you have to stabilise it in any way or is it "easily" worked in its natural state?

I think the handle design encompasses all the best designs of vintage backsaws, the front horn...the thin bottom section...and as Richard says...the "weld" efftect is particularly striking!

Bravo my friend! =D> =D> =D> Bravo indeed!

Jim

 

[swagman]

That is saw porn Stewie! :mrgreen:

You guys down under have a wonderful selection of really exotic woods...that Mallee is one of the most attractive woods I have seen...I need to look out for some.

You are very brave working a burr like that...most people wouldn't even attempt it. Did you have to stabilise it in any way or is it "easily" worked in its natural state?

I think the handle design encompasses all the best designs of vintage backsaws, the front horn...the thin bottom section...and as Richard says...the "weld" efftect is particularly striking!

Bravo my friend! =D> =D> =D> Bravo indeed!

Jim

Hi Jim. I have found burl timber so far to be quite stable to work with. This is the 2nd Carcass Saw that I have used burl timber and I think this type of wood has some very good qualities that make it most suitable for saw handles. It has no singular direction of grain in its make up. The grain is all interconnecting if you understand my meaning, which makes it much easier to manage the delicate areas of the saw handle like the upper/lower horns and the bottom rail and into the lambs tongue. As an over precaution, I made it routine practice to reseal the edge grain of the burl using shellac after each session of shaping. The handle is one that I designed myself.

Stewie.

 

[Harbo]

A lovely saw - fantastic piece of wood.

Another "competitor" for Pedder?

What steel did you use?

Rod

 

[thecoder]

Pure Beauty ...

Like it a lot

Dave

 

[o_LuCaS_o]

Hi Swagman!

Beautiful work. The handle looks like made of some kind of stone...marble, rather than wood Very nice details.

You mentioned sealing the edge grain with shellac after every shaping session. Why do You do it? Is the brass back folded, slotted or laminated?

Regards!
Lukasz

 

[swagman]

A lovely saw - fantastic piece of wood.

Another "competitor" for Pedder?

What steel did you use?

Rod

Hi Rod. I am not in the same league as Klaus & Pedder. They are much more proficient at backsaw making than I am able to at this early stage. The saw steel is 1095 grade and is 0.020" thickness.

Stewie.

 

[swagman]

Pure Beauty ...

Like it a lot

Dave

Thanks Dave. There is certainly a big learning curve with backsaw making especially when you start looking at developing an individual style of work. Each backsaw I have made so far is technically getting slightly better than the previous one.

Stewie.

 

[swagman]

Hi Swagman!

Beautiful work. The handle looks like made of some kind of stone...marble, rather than wood Very nice details.

You mentioned sealing the edge grain with shellac after every shaping session. Why do You do it? Is the brass back folded, slotted or laminated?

Regards!
Lukasz

Hi Lukasz. The burl used on this handle has as you have mentioned a marble like grain to it. Other burl of different species also have some unique characteristics to their color and grain. A most enjoyable type of wood to work with. The brass hardbacks I use are all slotted. The reasons for sealing the end grain of the burl during shaping is merely a safe guard against structural movement through moisture loss. Due to the saw handles integral shaping you have thin areas of grain such as with the lower rail and horns to much wider areas within the cheeks and grip. Each of these areas will differ to how quickly the moisture level (as a %) changes. Thats the way I approach it anyway. Others may view differently.

Stewie.