Narex mortise chisels

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

swagman

Established Member
Joined
13 Feb 2008
Messages
1,295
Reaction score
1
Location
Victoria, Australia
I've had these chisels in use for about 2 years, and I have never been overly impressed with the quality of the handle finish applied by the manufacturer . The ferules and hoops were all cleaned up, and the handles were re-stained in a oil base, before receiving a top coat of 3 coats of clear gloss enamel. Next to do is resharpen these chisels to a 25* primary, and 30* secondary bevel.

Stewie;



 
Can I ask why you're putting a micro bevel on mortice chisels? Common practice is to put approx 30deg single bevel
 
Droogs":1k8cjsmh said:
Can I ask why you're putting a micro bevel on mortice chisels? Common practice is to put approx 30deg single bevel

Droogs; I made no mention of using a micro bevel. I stated a 30 degree secondary bevel.
 
Soz my bad. misread things , brain fart this morning :roll:
 
Sometimes secondary bevel/microbevel is like potato/potah-to Stewie. Some people's 'microbevels' are a fat 1/64" which is shading up to 0.5mm and that's well within the range for a freshly done secondary bevel in more traditional sharpening.
 
Serious question, why would you use anything other than a single bevel on a mortise chisel, given that the bevel angle is what actually does most of the work when chopping a mortise?
 
Why not paint them in nice colours say red, blue, magenta, etc. Or Polka dots?
 
Don't be mean.

If you woodwork as a hobby, anything you do to improve your workshop or tools improves your enjoyment. That's why I buy the fancy brass marking gauges, squares, and bevels, they make the process more enjoyable.
 
Biliphuster":2yg5oiyn said:
Don't be mean.

If you woodwork as a hobby, anything you do to improve your workshop or tools improves your enjoyment. That's why I buy the fancy brass marking gauges, squares, and bevels, they make the process more enjoyable.
Oh all right!

But why not bright colours if you are going to all that trouble in the first place?
 
The new finish on the Narex mortise chisels turned out quite nice. Each of the chisel blades were given a fresh primary and secondary bevel, before being honed to a single convex curve. Nice and sharp and ready for the next mortising job.

Stewie;



 
Very nice indeed Stewie. I have a 14mm and agree that the handle isn't very attractive.

John
 
Really nice job Stewie - a different looking set of chisels now. I have a set myself and like you, always thought the handles cheapened them.

Jonny
 
They look superb Stewie, massive improvement on the factory finish.
 
Thanks gents; I use the fast cutting action of a Norton Crystolon Oil Stone to 1st flatten the back of the chisels, then shape the convex bevel. I don't rely on the ruler trick to speed up this process. The water stones then take over to polish the bevel side to a very sharp cutting edge.

Stewie;
 
It was normal to round the ends of mortice chisels quite distinctly - starting the edge at about 35º and dipping the handle to round it.
There's a good reason for this and its the same reason that claw hammers, crow bars etc are curved - it gives progressive leverage - high when tight up and but falling (and speeding up) as the nail (etc.) is pulled.
You use the progressive leverage with a mortice chisel for cleaning out the bottom of blind mortices - with the bevel against the side and the edge tight in to the corner.
Another reason for round bevels in general is that it makes sharpening quicker and easier. There's no particular point in precise "primary... secondary" etc bevels
 
If you cut mortices by starting in the middle and working towards either end, the recommendation by Jacob is perfect. The chisel should be curved to aid levering out the waste. Equally I only ever sharpen mine with a 30 or 35 for hard wood degree primary. Your beating them with a mallet so you need metal to support the edge.
 
Back
Top