my first dovetails

[Helvetica]

hmmm they're a bit rough, but I find myself proud all the same. I clamped an angled piece of wood to guide the tail sawing, but did the pins freehand which turned out to be a mistake! Well actually the freehand itself was ok, but I sawed straight down (saw level) where I think I should have sawn with the saw at a progressive angle, starting level and moving the tote lower to only saw to the line I could see, then flipping the board around and doing the same on the reverse. Does that sound correct?

I thought my moving fillister plane was true, but it looks like it's responsible for the gap where the base of the tails meets the pin board. The joint is tight on the inside.

A bit rough, but hopefully I can improve on the next batch of dovetails required for the anarchist tool chest project I'm embarking on very shortly! Wood is poplar.

 

[RogerBoyle]

=D> =D>
Hell of a lot better than the first ones i did LOL

Just keep practising and its surprising how it all comes together

Roger

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Hey, that's not bad for a first attempt! The spacing of the tails is quite elegant - I like the way they're closer together at the edges where the joint needs strength, and they are symmetrical, which is pleasing to the eye.

The real secrets of making dovetails are careful marking-out (which it looks like you've got the idea of) and being able to 'split the line' with the sawcuts. Keep the saw horizontal at all times. If you have trouble getting the saw to start smoothly with the toothline on the full width of the workpiece, try imagining that you're moving the saw in a proper sawing motion just a hair's breadth above the wood, then gently lower the saw into cut (you need to guide it against your thumb so that it starts the cut in exactly the right place). In effect, you're supporting the weight of the saw, and preventing it's weight jamming the teeth against the wood, and making the saw jump as you force it to cut. Once the cut is established, you can let the weight of the saw do the cutting, and just 'think the saw down the line' - concentrate on getting the sawcut in the waste so that one side of the kerf just halves the marking-out line. That takes a few goes to get right - worth marking out a piece of scrap and practicing for five minutes or so. Also, if you keep the toothline of the saw horizontal at all times, you don't have to worry about the back of the joint at all - just saw to the line on the side you can see, and all will be well at the back.

One thing's for sure - by the time you've built the toolchest, you'll be able to cut beautifully fitting dovetails without thinking about it! You'll also have a VERY useful piece of workshop storage - good luck and enjoy!

 

[Alf]

=D> =D>
Hell of a lot better than the first ones i did LOL

Yeah, same here.

As far as the sawing goes, take it down at an angle using both lines at first, then level off. What you describe is more the procedure for tenons; dovetails you can saw from one side.

And I know all the clever videos and stuff seldom show it, but you might like to use the less successful joints to practice how to deal with gaps. Can be a real bacon-saver when you're only sensible option is a rescue job, rather than a Woodbloke trip to the bandsaw.

 

[matthewwh]

Very well done!

Your only genuine issue is marking out, but you have cracked 90% of the job including the bits that most people struggle with.

Practice, practice, practice!