Multico morticer.
- Thread starter Jameshow
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If that's the small benchtop model I can vouch for it. It's a good solid machine, plenty of power and very quiet. It lasted until I got a Domino and now I just use it as a drill press. You can change the chuck to take 1/2" bits no problem. £200 is probably the upper end for a small machine.
guineafowl21
Established Member
Model K? Heavy machine, and very good. I got mine for £150 a few years ago, 3ph run on an inverter drive:
Mine doesn’t have a Jacob’s chuck, it has collets for each size of auger bit. A bit fiddly to set up, but then much faster than by hand, to say the least.
Parts available from Multico France, [email protected].
Mine doesn’t have a Jacob’s chuck, it has collets for each size of auger bit. A bit fiddly to set up, but then much faster than by hand, to say the least.
Parts available from Multico France, [email protected].
Jameshow
Established Member
That's the one!
guineafowl21
Established Member
You can see the rolling table stand I made for it, with a drawer for all the bits and pieces. Some come with a stand, I believe.
Jameshow
Established Member
I picked it up seems like a good machine three chisels....
https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/971637997311705/
guineafowl21
Established Member
You won’t regret that!
HamsterJam
Let’s take it apart to see what’s inside….
I have the ‘portable’ bench top model (PM12 I think). Good solid machine. Chisels not too difficult to sharpen with the right (conical) sharpening tools.
guineafowl21
Established Member
Axi do the conical sharpeners.
Here’s mine on a test cut after sharpening, chomping a 1/4” mortice into splitty, knotty larch. Imagine doing that by hand.
@Jameshow you know how to use one, do you?
- Set the chisel just clear of the auger. Opening should point sideways, not front/back as in the picture.
- Chop one end, then the other, then make cuts spaced just under the width of the chisel. The clear the missed bits. The idea is to have the chisel cutting on all four sides as much as possible, to prevent deflection.
- The rear fence of the machine joins the bed at a radius, which can cause rocking if the workpiece has a sharp, square edge.
Here’s mine on a test cut after sharpening, chomping a 1/4” mortice into splitty, knotty larch. Imagine doing that by hand.
@Jameshow you know how to use one, do you?
- Set the chisel just clear of the auger. Opening should point sideways, not front/back as in the picture.
- Chop one end, then the other, then make cuts spaced just under the width of the chisel. The clear the missed bits. The idea is to have the chisel cutting on all four sides as much as possible, to prevent deflection.
- The rear fence of the machine joins the bed at a radius, which can cause rocking if the workpiece has a sharp, square edge.
Yojevol
Clocking on
No, the idea is to cut on 3 sides so that shavings can escape from the opening on the 4th side. It is very easy to clog the chisel with shavings causing overheating and splitting of the chisel. Be careful on the first cut and lift the chisel a few times to allow shavings to escape. If you suspect the chisel is deflecting take smaller cuts.
Brian
Doug71
Established Member
Yes, you normally see the opening in the front of the chisel but all the old boys have the opening to the left or right to let the chips clear quicker.
Some great advice on set up and use here.
https://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=5038&p=76979&hilit=mortiser+set+up#p76979
guineafowl21
Established Member
More than one way to skin…etc but the technique is from Feirer, Cabinetmaking and Millwork, Glencoe, First pub. 1982.
I’d certainly stand firm on defining each end of the mortice first, otherwise you get tapered sides to it. How you hog out the middle is probably a matter of personal preference. I find the smaller chisels do deflect if made to cut on three sides, which I don’t like.
I’d certainly stand firm on defining each end of the mortice first, otherwise you get tapered sides to it. How you hog out the middle is probably a matter of personal preference. I find the smaller chisels do deflect if made to cut on three sides, which I don’t like.
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guineafowl21
Established Member
What’s next, then? Spindle moulder? Radial arm saw? 
Jameshow
Established Member
Better bandsaw I have two "hobby ones"What’s next, then? Spindle moulder? Radial arm saw?
I'm thinking of a delta clone from naerok to match my drill and table saw!!
Jameshow
Established Member
HamsterJam
Let’s take it apart to see what’s inside….
I agree with opening to one side and I always cut each end first then hog out the middle using the technique you described, keeping the chisel cutting on 4 sides or just front and back but never on 3 sides to avoid deflection.
I guess with deeper or through mortices, the three-sided hogging technique might be better but I have never had an issue with chip clearance.
As for set up, I fix the chisel with a small gap so it isn’t fully home. Set the drill bit so it touches the chisel then push the chisel fully home creating a gap between the chisel and drill bit.
IIRC, the drill should be level with the chisel tips.
I also found the hard way that it is a good idea to wear gloves during the setup as it is easy to stab yourself on the chisel which is (should be?) very sharp.
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