Morticing Machine
- Thread starter custard
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AES
Established Member
Sorry, I don't know anything about Clico chisels but assuming the shank you want to file is either round or rectangular, then ideally you need a 6 or 8 inch smooth cut file, ideally about the same width as the flat/s you want on the shank (so a pillar file probably - this has a smaller width in relation to it's length than a 6 or 8 inch standard hand file). You should be able to get one in any decent tool shop or even in at least some of the big DIY emporiums. If that fails then get a small set of warding files and use the flat one in the set. (You don't really need a set but AFAIK warding files only come in sets, and anyway the rest - triangular, square, round, etc will probly come in handy for other odd jobs).
Both should cut the shank of the chisel quite well as it won't be (or shouldn't be) as hard as the cutting end of the tool. The smooth pillar file is preferable to the warding file though because generally a smooth pillar file with be both sharper and smoother (number of TPI) than most warding files, and believe it or not a smooth file will cut the shank better/quicker.
I assume you don't have much experience of filling at the bench (workpiece held in vice) so it will be well worth your while to find any old scrap bit of metal to practice with first. You cut on the forward stroke and "relax" on the return stroke (rather like hand sawing wood or metal) but it does take a bit of practice, especially if you want the flat to be "flat" and properly in line with the axis of the chisel. This becomes even more important if the tool requires a flat on both sides of the shank and if the shank is round. But once you've got the hang of it (it's just like developing any other hand skill) it's easy and to do a couple of flats (presumably only shallow - a couple or 3 mm?) is only a five minute job.
Sorry if any of the above is teaching granny to suck eggs - pity you're not here in Switzerland, I'd do it for you in 5 mins!
Good luck
AES
Both should cut the shank of the chisel quite well as it won't be (or shouldn't be) as hard as the cutting end of the tool. The smooth pillar file is preferable to the warding file though because generally a smooth pillar file with be both sharper and smoother (number of TPI) than most warding files, and believe it or not a smooth file will cut the shank better/quicker.
I assume you don't have much experience of filling at the bench (workpiece held in vice) so it will be well worth your while to find any old scrap bit of metal to practice with first. You cut on the forward stroke and "relax" on the return stroke (rather like hand sawing wood or metal) but it does take a bit of practice, especially if you want the flat to be "flat" and properly in line with the axis of the chisel. This becomes even more important if the tool requires a flat on both sides of the shank and if the shank is round. But once you've got the hang of it (it's just like developing any other hand skill) it's easy and to do a couple of flats (presumably only shallow - a couple or 3 mm?) is only a five minute job.
Sorry if any of the above is teaching granny to suck eggs - pity you're not here in Switzerland, I'd do it for you in 5 mins!
Good luck
AES
custard
Established Member
Thanks AES, that's very clear. It's not a complex job, but I've found before that unless there's a flat where the grub screw engages, the grub screw raises a burr which then prevents the chisel from being removed from the holder. So a 6 or 8 inch pillar file it is!
AES
Established Member
Good, glad that helps, but please don't forget the "smooth cut" part. I don't think you'll find it in a good tool shop but some muppet in a DIY place may offer you a coarse/*******/mill cut file and you don't want that, especially if you've done little or no filing before.
And yes, you're dead right, grub screws often raise burrs and manufacturers often don't put flat on shafts where a grub screw will bear so there's always a burr raised as a result. One other tip, if it's not already done, make sure the "working end" of the grub screw has also got a little flat on it. If not, out with the trusty file again, and go GENTLY!
Cheers.
AES
And yes, you're dead right, grub screws often raise burrs and manufacturers often don't put flat on shafts where a grub screw will bear so there's always a burr raised as a result. One other tip, if it's not already done, make sure the "working end" of the grub screw has also got a little flat on it. If not, out with the trusty file again, and go GENTLY!
Cheers.
AES
