Material for boxing in pipes

[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

Plumber fitted some pipes before I had a chance to chase that particular wall for him so they've just been clipped to the bare stone/brick/block/dust wall.

The wall will be lime rendered soon so the pipes will have to be boxed in with something insulating which doesn't expand with heat too much.

Any suggestions?

Pvc soffit board did come to mind briefly, but I'm sure pvc windows have a fair of expansion with heat so I assume soffit board would have similar characteristics?

Cheers,
Mark

 

[rafezetter]

I would have thought about your only option would be to box in with some thinnish ply and a framework or those plastic fixings with screws at right angles to each other, possibly add some of those foam pipe insulators to reduce heat transference.

 

[gregmcateer]

Depending how big the area is and how deep the box needs to be - I'd screw a 2"x2" frame to the wall either side and use either thin ply or plasterboard. (Definitely the latter if you're plastering the room out - the boxing won't disappear, but will be less conspicuous).

If the pipes are 15mm, that will give you enough space for a bit of rockwool or similar, (though if it's domestic hot and cold rather than heating pipes, I'd use pipe lagging round each, like this:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Con...sd2738/Water+Byelaw+49+Pipe+Insulation/p15527
otherwise you'll have warm cold water until it's run through for a bit - very annoying when you want it cold!).

HTH

Greg

 

[Mark A]

Hi chaps,

The pipes in question will eventually feed a radiator and an outside tap, so insulating between them isn't important. I'm only concerned about the render cracking due to thermal movement behind it.

Would prefer not to use plasterboard as the whole reason for lime render is to rectify an ongoing damp problem and I don't know about the longevity of the plasterboard when it's behind such a porous material?

I wonder if cement board could work?

Mark

 

[RobinBHM]

I dont think plasterboard would work.

Renderboard or a tile backer board would be better. Hopefully thin coat plasterbeads will work on these type boards.

 

[AndyT]

Whatever you do, don't put gypsum based plaster where lime render will go over it. I had this mistake made by a builder who should have known better. After a few years you will get a chemical reaction between the two, with efflorescence weakening and bursting the lime render.

If you are lined up to have the rendering done by a builder who does really understand the subtleties of lime, I suggest you ask him for suggestions. But I'm a bit confused - is this an external or an internal wall?

Maybe the best solution long term will be to get the plumber back, and chase in the pipes.

 

[Mark A]

Whatever you do, don't put gypsum based plaster where lime render will go over it. I had this mistake made by a builder who should have known better. After a few years you will get a chemical reaction between the two, with efflorescence weakening and bursting the lime render.

If you are lined up to have the rendering done by a builder who does really understand the subtleties of lime, I suggest you ask him for suggestions. But I'm a bit confused - is this an external or an internal wall?

Maybe the best solution long term will be to get the plumber back, and chase in the pipes.

Hi Andy,

We're currently lime rendering the internal walls of the original part of the house (1850s) and the external walls will be hacked off and re-rendered with lime in the next month or so. The newer parts of the house (it has been extended at least three times, badly) will be cement rendered externally in time while the interior walls will just be skimmed as they're not in terrible shape.

I could unclip the pipes and chase the wall as they haven't been connected up yet, but I'm reluctant as I really hate the job - I'd rather pull down ceilings for a day than 30 minutes chasing...

I bought a cowl for my 9in grinder in hope that it would help the dust problem but I find it's only effective on smooth surfaces. It's actually more of a hindrance when chasing rough walls as it adds another 2kg to an already chunky tool.

https://www.sunrisetools.co.uk/dust-con ... c-tec.html

After reading the properties of cement board I think that could be the answer.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[Newbie_Neil]

I wonder if cement board could work?

That would be my option.

Neil

 

[gregmcateer]

Ah, now I know about the lime issues, then +1 for the cement board, (or chase it - I just get a cr*ppy vacuum up next to the grinder and that deals with most of the dust, tbh)

 

[Mark A]

Just off the phone from the place I bought the lime from - they suggest boxing in the pipe with a compressed wood wall board (looks like long slivers of wood squished into a board shape, going by the image on their website). Cement board could work but the bloke was concerned the lime may not adhere well. To prevent the board expanding with the heat from the pipes I'll wrap them in cheap insulation.

Fine by me as it's only £6 for a 4x2 board and I'm picking up another load of lime on Friday anyway.

Thanks for the advice!

Mark

 

[Water-Mark]

Pvc will work fine and not need painted.

 

[RogerS]

....To prevent the board expanding with the heat from the pipes I'll wrap them in cheap insulation.

....
Mark

Don't bet on it. My experience of applying this stuff to some 22mm ch pipes underneath an oak floorboard is that the floorboard still gets toasty which is not what you want. Admittedly the space was tight and so the floorboard is in contact with the outside of the foam insulation (and I went for the thickest I could get). I would give as much of an airgap between the foam insulation and your boxing in as I can.