mtr1":3ty8z6j5 said:I use this one, and find it quite good. Didn't buy it cos it was Japanese, but for the shape on the end for marking, and it can be spun fast. Replaces one I made, that got broken. Don't know about faithfull tools, check its square before buying.
Psed again! http://www.xacto.com/Product/X218mtr1":3fppfz2k said:Can't say I've had much luck with a pencil, how do you get it between fine dovetails Jacob?
psed quick there jacob.
A Stanley knife (the old #199 fixed blade) has always served me well enough.Kernow":cumfa1dh said:Hello all
Could anyone give me some advice on buying a good dovetail marking knife? I've been looking & there is too many to choose from. Also I'm looking for a 50mm engineers square, are the faithfull ones ok?
Thanks George
Kernow, if you want a left-handed knife, I have one to spare and will gladly post it to you.Kernow":3lfnum3n said:mtr1":3lfnum3n said:I use this one, and find it quite good. Didn't buy it cos it was Japanese, but for the shape on the end for marking, and it can be spun fast. Replaces one I made, that got broken. Don't know about faithfull tools, check its square before buying.
Thats the knife I was warming to. Will look at the Kirschen ones also.
That's why the Ashley Iles ones have a curved edge, so they can be rolled through smaller cuts or drawn across a surface. I always find that straight edged ones tend to go blunt quickly at the tip because that's the bit that ends up doing all the work.Jacob":2cwje8z5 said:The trouble with a knife is that you have to draw it across and it can go off line, or slice the side of the tail.
I am completely with Matthew, the curved blades of the AI marking knives are ideal, straight edged blades are rather senseless, since you only use the tips of them.matthewwh":v47ei7wz said:That's why the Ashley Iles ones have a curved edge, so they can be rolled through smaller cuts or drawn across a surface. I always find that straight edged ones tend to go blunt quickly at the tip because that's the bit that ends up doing all the work.
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Not using a knife at all is the simplest solution i.e. either a thin chisel-ended craft "knife", or an awl.bugbear":2llat1fg said:......
Solutions include:
* a thin blade, so that the blade thickness doesn't matter
* a double edged knife (either spear point, or double ended)
* Scandinavian grind so that both faces are flat and meet at the edge........
As a leftie, I'm used to tilting the knife so that the bevel plane runs on whatever edge I'm marking against, (but, as pointed out that's no use in dovetails). That said, I like this one. I've deliberately rounded the end slightly, as it holds its edge better, but it's comfortable (important) and sharp. I bought it when it was on offer - £15 is rather steep IMHO.bugbear":1wacj8af said:For this reason a thick single bevelled blade is no use (e.g. Kiradashi), since the line would be offset by the blade thickness for one of the cuts.