Found Lower roller guides suitable for an SCM Minimax S45 bandsaw

[Wuffles]

**Update: After adjusting the rudimentary guides supplied with the machine I've found it's cutting pretty well without the rollers so I'm happy to not bother replacing anything for now**

Purchased one of these second hand recently and only realised there weren't any lower roller guides when I came to adjust them when fitting a new blade - whoops. If anyone happens to have any knocking about, or know of a compatible (without too much faff) set I can purchase somewhere, please do shout.

This is what's there currently:





Many thanks.

 

[Housey210]

found scm very helpful in spares. SCM Spare parts

aftermarket guides - Bandsaw Guides for Sale | Scott+Sargeant UK

 

[Wuffles]

found scm very helpful in spares. SCM Spare parts

aftermarket guides - Bandsaw Guides for Sale | Scott+Sargeant UK

I'll try the SCM link, thank you.

I'd already found the Scotsarg and thought they seemed expensive. If someone were to tell me the Axy ones fit perfectly, I'd give them a punt for the money though.

 

[Housey210]

I'll try the SCM link, thank you.

I'd already found the Scotsarg and thought they seemed expensive. If someone were to tell me the Axy ones fit perfectly, I'd give them a punt for the money though.

Dont think a genuine part will be much cheaper. Many a part missing on second hand purchases but not as bad as the "company" who bought a dominion 16 x9 planer thicknesser only to find, when back at shop, the thicknessing table was missing! I bought a wadkin BEM only to get home to find the spindle thread, holding nut loose shaft, was damaged. " Cant find the spanner mate to get that off" the seller said, Yeah right, they knew! Learnt now its best to thoroughly check a machine prior to parting with cash. I am fortunate I can repair this, local welder has tig patched many a thread for me, around £20, and I have colchester 2000 lathe to recut thread.

 

[P Britton]

Purchased one of these second hand recently and only realised there weren't any lower guides when I came to adjust them when fitting a new blade - whoops. If anyone happens to have any knocking about, or know of a compatible (without too much faff) set I can purchase somewhere, please do shout.

Many thanks.

Purchased one of these second hand recently and only realised there weren't any lower guides when I came to adjust them when fitting a new blade - whoops. If anyone happens to have any knocking about, or know of a compatible (without too much faff) set I can purchase somewhere, please do shout.

Many thanks.

Try JMJ Wood. JMJ Woodworking Machinery - New & Used Woodworking Machines
Very helpful and knowledgeable folk.
All the best
Paul

 

[Wuffles]

Try JMJ Wood. JMJ Woodworking Machinery - New & Used Woodworking Machines
Very helpful and knowledgeable folk.
All the best
Paul

On closer inspection in the light, and after removing the table, I've found what could be described as a sort of guide hidden by a bunch of folded steel plates - what a dufus.

I think I'm now looking to "upgrade" this affair to a proper set of wheels. If anyone has any clues what might fit.

 

[Ttrees]

I think I'm now looking to "upgrade" this affair to a proper set of wheels

I used a bearing for my thrust guide, works grand, though I suspect it will clog,
so stop ragging on my cord.!
I didn't have one before that.
You don't really need guides if your ripping or resawing, only for curves with small blades,
so they would do the job in my opinion.
Have you tested the machine?
If you're finding that the blade is making excessive contact with the thrust guides,
i.e lack of "beam tension", then that's a sign the slight camber could be worn off the tires.
All the best
Tom

 

[Wuffles]

I used a bearing for my thrust guide, works grand, though I suspect it will clog,
so stop ragging on my cord.!
I didn't have one before that.
You don't really need guides if your ripping or resawing, only for curves with small blades,
so they would do the job in my opinion.
Have you tested the machine?
If you're finding that the blade is making excessive contact with the thrust guides,
i.e lack of "beam tension", then that's a sign the slight camber could be worn off the tires.
All the best
Tom

I've not tried it again since finding and adjusting these guides* earlier today, will try it tomorrow. It's mostly ripping anyway, so I'm sure you're right. If it behaves itself, I'll likely delete this thread

Cheers for everyone's input.

* there was about 10mm free space either side before I found them and adjusted them much closer.

 

[Ttrees]

Might as well test run it with the table off, and guides outta the way...
Plenty of things you could find out, what wouldn't be possible to find out otherwise.
Tramming the wheels, checking if the faces might have 0.2mm discrepancy,
then you could align the wheels, and motor to the upper wheel datum
I could explain all this but my internets too slow to upload pics,
and not much point if it'll be deleted.
I've posted this elsewhere, like on the bandsaw forum and the Creek in more detail,
I thought I posted my more recent findings already on my bandsaw thread, but it must've been someone else's post.

Internets too slow to upload pics, parsing response error, will have to update my thread,
but all that's on the Ozzy bandsaw forum, best read backwards, just like all my posts, lol.


Tramming to check for 0.2mm discrepancy
my upper wheel had 0.5mm, what translated to 4mm variable lines on the base.
Impossible to align wheels with this method if so...
Likewise the wheel and carriage must be solid before doing such...

Use masking tape to protect your paint

Mark where you can hear if needing so

Custom file handle, (would be a good idea to select stock so you can't use it backwards)!

Now the wheels are trust-able
I've got the measurements down, basically thick enough to clear the chassis "waist"
gotta be over an inch on my machine, I had this 40mm timber, length determined to suit this tight spot in the chassis below, and wide enough 92mm, to register the beam against.

Upper wheel datum line drawn, (upper wheel is not adjustable like the lower wheel)
hence why I'm calling it so.

Use a pen, not a pencil

Then you could check the motor and see if it matches the upper wheel,
(and cross your fingers if it's a face or flange mount motor)

and is coplanar,
This inch thick plank is best as long as possible for balance, and motor might need be lowered
and cinched down again (beware of overdoing it with that)

Bearing to clear the shaft, was handy, but something else would do rightly

Once assembled, match the lower wheel to those lines,
and don't pinch the shaft when doing lower wheel adjustments, i.e an east or a west loosened
to adjust for north or south.
Best done without blade tension also.

 

[Wuffles]

Might as well test run it with the table off, and guides outta the way...
Plenty of things you could find out, what wouldn't be possible to find out otherwise.
Tramming the wheels, checking if the faces might have 0.2mm discrepancy,
then you could align the wheels, and motor to the upper wheel datum
I could explain all this but my internets too slow to upload pics,
and not much point if it'll be deleted.
I've posted this elsewhere, like on the bandsaw forum and the Creek in more detail,
I thought I posted my more recent findings already on my bandsaw thread, but it must've been someone else's post.

Internets too slow to upload pics, parsing response error, will have to update my thread,
but all that's on the Ozzy bandsaw forum, best read backwards, just like all my posts, lol.


Tramming to check for 0.2mm discrepancy
my upper wheel had 0.5mm, what translated to 4mm variable lines on the base.
Impossible to align wheels with this method if so...
Likewise the wheel and carriage must be solid before doing such...

Use masking tape to protect your paint

View attachment 166974
Mark where you can hear if needing so
View attachment 166980
Custom file handle, (would be a good idea to select stock so you can't use it backwards)!
View attachment 166981

Now the wheels are trust-able
I've got the measurements down, basically thick enough to clear the chassis "waist"
gotta be over an inch on my machine, I had this 40mm timber, length determined to suit this tight spot in the chassis below, and wide enough 92mm, to register the beam against.
View attachment 166971

Upper wheel datum line drawn, (upper wheel is not adjustable like the lower wheel)
hence why I'm calling it so.
View attachment 166972
Use a pen, not a pencil
View attachment 166975
Then you could check the motor and see if it matches the upper wheel,
(and cross your fingers if it's a face or flange mount motor)
View attachment 166973 and is coplanar,
This inch thick plank is best as long as possible for balance, and motor might need be lowered
and cinched down again (beware of overdoing it with that)
View attachment 166976
Bearing to clear the shaft, was handy, but something else would do rightly
View attachment 166983

Once assembled, match the lower wheel to those lines,
and don't pinch the shaft when doing lower wheel adjustments, i.e an east or a west loosened
to adjust for north or south.
Best done without blade tension also.

Before I’d found these guides, it seemed to be cutting some green oak much better than the old Record power bs300 it’s replacing, albeit a bit wobbly on the vertical, which is understandable given the lack of solidity below

 

[Ttrees]

Coplanar shim

Check motor pulley protrusion

Machine leveled for upper wheel and carriage adjustment

A Centauro CO 600 tire has the crown 1mm closer to the front edge.

Those are things I'd check, hopefully no issues will show up.
All the best
Tom