Looking for info on an old Black & Decker Bandsaw


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6 Oct 2009
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Midlands, Ireland
I've always hankered after a small bandsaw but I could never justify spending too much money on something that would never see too much use and I didn't want to go down the route of buying a new, but cheap machine either as the reviews seem to be pretty poor for most of them. Anyway I recently picked up an old Black & Decker bandsaw locally to me for very little money, €15- it's a 3 wheel DN339 Type 1. It's missing the ripping fence, the sliding mitre fence and some of the retaining knobs for fences and cover. It was pretty grotty and rusty in parts but I've got everything cleaned up, lubed and ready to roll. I'm going to order some blades from Tuff Saws tomorrow to see how it cuts. Has anyone on here got one of these saws and how do they find it? I'm aware it's a hobby machine but I'm hoping it might be a cheap introduction to the world of bandsaws and it won't cost me much in initial outlay. I've no instruction manual and google hasn't thrown up much info either, I'd love to know how old it may be and does anyone have a PDF of the manual they could email to me? Thanks in advance...


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They are actually a good little saw, as long as you stay within their capacity - for 2" or less, it's fine with a good blade. I wouldn't worry too much about not having fences as they are lightweight and it is difficult to get any sort of accuracy with them. Make sure BOTH sets of guide blocks are set properly and also the roller in the bottom casing.
I have just stripped down a B&D 339 and set up the blade wheels and guides etc. My Dad gave it to me sometime ago.
Don't know where the handbook is but their fairly easy to work on. I took the table off to make adjusting the guides and rear stop wheel a little easier, still a bit "fiddly" even with the bed off.
Basically the same as any other Bandsaw, but a lot smaller,
Carefully clean the 3 wheels and check the bottom wheel brush is working O.K. Blade running in the centre of the top wheel, Guides as "snuggy" as possible just behind the gullet, all but touching and the rear ball race just off touching until cutting anything at all.
Use a wider blade(10mm) to help set the guides square to the saw
I reckon a coarser blade, 6tpi feels ok for general work but when the couple of spare blades are done, I'll be on the dog and bone to MR Tuffsaw.
HTH Regards Rodders

P.S. I have seen the fences and other bits entered on flea bay it will probably be a good idea to keep a lookout from time to tlme. Rodders
Just reporting back with progress on my B&D bandsaw; I got my new blades from Ian at Tuff Saws in the post this morning so couldn't wait to set up the machine. Incidentally I only recently copped that the machine has what I now know to be a "Reeves drive" pulley to give the variable speed- needless to say it was seized up so I spent a couple of hours yesterday with drift punch, gear puller etc taking the thing apart and cleaning it up before reassembly today. Anyway, fitted the blade, got it tracking fine, with no problems (this is too easy, too good to be true?) and pretty soon I was cutting some hardwood scraps with ease. I then decided to try and cut a little aluminium (and in the process fabricate a simple fence to repalce the one missing on the machine); worked a charm! The machine and saw blade has exceeded my expectations, thanks to all for the great advice, without which I would have been at sea. I am now the proud owner of my first operational band saw, happy days!
Excellent. I'm glad it's worked out well for you.

I keep mine set up in a corner of the workshop and have found it really useful.
Glad to hear the bandsaw is working well, and repaying the work you have invested.
I think mine is really good and very useful to have.
Regards Rodders
Hi everyone. Ive just joined the site so hi to everyone. Ivejust found this thread so please accept my apologies for resurrecting it. I have just bought an old BD339 bandsaw for my partner as she's taken up wood working as a hobby and the BD339 seemed to fit the bill nicely. Ive taken the cover off and had a look inside but not being familiar with band saws of any kind im not entirely certain what im looking at and was hoping someone may be kind enough to offer a bit of advice please?

The machine obviously has three wheels, one which is driven by the motor drive belt and the other two. My question is:

Do the othe two wheels, not driven by the drive belt, have rubber round them? The wheels on our saw dont so im wondering if i need to order new ones.

Can anyone offer any advice please?
My old 3 wheel Burgess did not have any rubber on the wheels, just the plastic. I had two versions of the Burgess - an early one (mid '70's) and a much later BK3 model. Neither had rubber to the wheels, that's if my memory is still serving me well!
Sadly I sold both machines to buy a larger floorstander.
Like Mignal said - just plain plastic wheels on my Burgess BK3. I used to use a friend's B&D and it was a very similar machine so I expect the wheels would be the same. The wheels are not flat across the rims, but slightly higher in the middle and it is this 'crowning' that enables the blade to run central when adjusted properly. A narrow blade's teeth will run within the breadth of the wheel but not touch it (because of the crowning). A max width half inch blade will be even further away from the surface.
I inherited one similar to this. Was taught to always release the blade tension after use. Is that standard practice? If so do larger band saws have a quick release lever so you can release and reapply the same tension easily?

I think the nylon(?) blade guides on mine are shot.
I'm thinking you're right about the lack of rubber on the 2 non driven wheels and it seems to work ok without. Thanks for the replies.
I have had a Clarke 12" Bandsaw that looks similar to the one above and has 3 wheels for years and never used it (no decent workshop space intil now, the blade is a standard 62" 1/4 6tpi.
It has variable power by turning a dial. My main concern is getting it to cut straight grrrrr I had a go at making a bandsaw box (doesn't everyone make one at some stage? lol) and tried to cut a 1/4" strip off using a fence but when i cut it the result was pretty poor and tapered at the end of the cut grrrrrr. I'm not sure about blade guides on this model and noticed the blade runs through a plastic wheel with a groove in? would this be the only blade guides? would appreciate any tips/help offered as I'm new to woodworking and hope to enjoy making stuff as an hobby since having to retire due to health problems.
I have also got a Scrollsaw off my father in law that needs setting up, nothing expensive but should get me started until i get a bit more experience.
ps Can anyone recommend any decent blades for cutting oak boxes? how many tpi for making small boxes? sorry for being so ignorant but we all have to learn somewhere :cool:
Just thought I'd add to this thread.
Picked up an identical band saw today.
Mine is also missing the fence and mitre but I'm not not bothered about this.

When I get it cleaned up and set up I'll pop a picture on here.
Fun little saws these 3 wheelers. Before I got sick (long story) i was a woodworker in only the broadest sense, bashing 2 inch nails through softwood and framing things through necessity rather than for enjoyment. Now my muscles see construction lumber as a bad joke even 1 at a time , so downsized my woods and tools to match. I got an older one of these 3 wheelers off E-lake for 20 canuckbucks 8 or so years back, made for Montgomery Ward!! For an idea of the age that means , the damn thing is neon green. The colour of my 70's era Dodge Dart! (a colour only a child could love) It is starting to squeak a bit (bearing probably) but still cuts straight when asked and can nearly get to scrollsaw type curves. Not a workhorse but darned useful and great fun.

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