long wide rebate

[Docile]

What is the best way to cut it.
2400x34x10mm
Tried a table saw but too difficult to control the board and saw lacked oomph on the 34mm cut.
Any advice greatly appreciated while I sharpen my rebate plane.....

 

[marcros]

Router clamped against a straight edge.

 

[Jacob]

Take it out with several passes over your TS then clean up with rebate and bench plane. Mark up first so you can work back to the lines and not rely on depth of cut of TS.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

What size is the piece of wood?

 

[Docile]

2520x 280 x 22. Maple. Only need 2440 mm in length for the finished piece

 

[memzey]

Can your table saw take a dado stack? I’d load up about 3/4” on mine take it away in two or three passes.

 

[Trevanion]

Do it with the Rebate plane! Physical workout!

Table saw is probably the easiest way to do it (Unless you've got a spindle moulder) I can see how a 2.4m length of 11" material could be very cumbersome and awkward to keep steady through a small or even medium-sized table saw, best way to keep it held down and against the blade would be some feather boards like:

Easily made out of scraps of timber and are useful for any other awkward tasks.

There are a number of ways it could be done but it's really down to the kit you have at hand to get the job done, There's still the rebate plane if you get really stuck :wink:

 

[Docile]

Thanks everybody for the suggestions. Very helpful and will admit there were many I hadn’t considered.
I need to cut 3 , so after 20 minutes with the plane I have ruled this out as a solo technique #-o
My saw won’t take a dado set, 9 x 2.5m passes with a handheld router is looking better but onerous and noisy.
Multiple cuts on the table saw as Jacob suggested looks attractive. Perhaps on the flat (easier to control the board ) then chisel and finish with plane? Will I get bad tear out with the chisel?

 

[Sideways]

Any half decent 1/4" router would sort this without any difficulty. You just need a few passes to work down to your straightedge or the setting of your fence.

Elu mff80 power plane would take 90% of it out in 3 or 4 passes - about a minute. Finish by hand.

It's a nice sized plank so look to take the tool to the wood unless you have suitably big machinery.

 

[sunnybob]

If you have a 1/2" router you can remove much more than 2.5 mm a time.
Anything up to a third of the cutters diameter works easily.
I have often taken just under half the cutters width in one pass.
But dont try half the width or more with a handheld router, that will give you a very interesting snake design :shock:

 

[MikeG.]

Big rebates are the only reason I am ever tempted to think about getting a table saw. In oak, trying to do them with a router can lead to some nasty long bits being ripped out, something that wouldn't be an issue in maple. As always, remove the bulk first, before doing a final finishing cut for both width and depth.

 

[LancsRick]

Router without any doubt. If noise is your worry then wear ear defenders

 

[Woody2Shoes]

The way I do big rebates is either with a rebate cutter on a router, as has been described, or by making two cuts at right angles - just a little shy of the finished dimension - with a circular saw, then finishing to final dimension by hand with a rebate plane . The advantage of the latter technique is that you still have a strip of useable material as an offcut - rather than all sawdust/chips.

As has been said, it's usually easier and safer to take the tool to the material, rather than the other way round.

Cheers, W2S

 

[Adam9453]

Spindle moulder with power feed is quickest and easiest.
Router and track if no access to a spindle moulder.
Track saw would do it but slow going

 

[Docile]

Thanks all.
In the end I used an el cheapo power planer, which cost
50 quid, tidied with a router and finished with the rebate plane.
Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

... In the end I used an el cheapo power planer, which cost
50 quid, tidied with a router...

Why didn't you just use the router to start with? :?