levelling a Lurem Former 310

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Django26

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Hey,

I have a Lurem Former 310 and my jointer table isnt level with my thicknesser table, because my knives are squared off the jointer the thicknesser is cutting inacurrately. i have tried adjusting the bolts on the surface planer table to correct this but in order to get them level the cutting cylinder hits the top jointer table. I dont know weather i should try and adjust the cutting cylinder or try and adjust the thicknesser table? hopefully someone knows the inner workings of this machine and can tell me what is the simplest way of fixing this.

Thanks in advance!
 
Is it anything like the Lurem C2600? If so have the manual (in French) which a mate has asked me to try and translate as he can’t find an English manual!

It’s got a lot of schematics in it that may help
 

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Is it anything like the Lurem C2600? If so have the manual (in French) which a mate has asked me to try and translate as he can’t find an English manual!

It’s got a lot of schematics in it that may help
It’s a Lurem former 310, I don’t know how similar they are to be honest. I actually have the manual but the one solution it had for my problem wont work for me.
 
Thats a great idea. Thanks
I was trying to find an image but failed, so a poor quality drawing instead. The thicknessed board has a baton/retaining timber added to the front and back edge so that it hooks over the bed.

Thicknesser Hack.jpg
 
Hey,

I have a Lurem Former 310 and my jointer table isnt level with my thicknesser table, because my knives are squared off the jointer the thicknesser is cutting inacurrately. i have tried adjusting the bolts on the surface planer table to correct this but in order to get them level the cutting cylinder hits the top jointer table. I dont know weather i should try and adjust the cutting cylinder or try and adjust the thicknesser table? hopefully someone knows the inner workings of this machine and can tell me what is the simplest way of fixing this.

Thanks in advance!
Perhaps the fastenings that hold one side of the cutter block have worked loose and debris has worked its way under ?
Cheers, Andy
 
I have identified the issue, the mount that holds the cutting block is badly damaged so the block was sitting at an angle to the thicknesser table. I have looked online and it is very difficult to get hold of parts. would anyone know if there is a place i could get a spare, or if anyone would know if it would be possible to could weld it back together.
thanks again for your time.
 

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I have identified the issue, the mount that holds the cutting block is badly damaged so the block was sitting at an angle to the thicknesser table. I have looked online and it is very difficult to get hold of parts. would anyone know if there is a place i could get a spare, or if anyone would know if it would be possible to could weld it back together.
thanks again for your time.
I feel for you, that's not a happy sight to see, I hope that it's just the mounting that's damaged and not as you say, the cutter block.
No idea if spares are available and unless you get the right person I think it's a really tricky repair.
Do you know any engineers who could help you out?
If you ignore all the empty area of the casting and look at it as a solid piece of aluminium you could remove and copy the good side taking extra care that the three holes required for bearings are correctly executed, in fact I'd be tempted to make one wide one and cut it in half thus guaranteeing any minor error in positioning of the holes becomes irrelevant.
The relatively easy bit is achieving the threaded fixing holes and elongated areas for roller and spring accommodation.
Cheers, Andy
 
I feel for you, that's not a happy sight to see, I hope that it's just the mounting that's damaged and not as you say, the cutter block.
No idea if spares are available and unless you get the right person I think it's a really tricky repair.
Do you know any engineers who could help you out?
If you ignore all the empty area of the casting and look at it as a solid piece of aluminium you could remove and copy the good side taking extra care that the three holes required for bearings are correctly executed, in fact I'd be tempted to make one wide one and cut it in half thus guaranteeing any minor error in positioning of the holes becomes irrelevant.
The relatively easy bit is achieving the threaded fixing holes and elongated areas for roller and spring accommodation.
Cheers, Andy
Yes it’s just the mount that is damaged, a bit warped and split in three places. I’ve had a good look online and there’s nothing available. I found an engineer who wants to take on the job of fixing it, I think it can be gerry rigged up to some standard. I wish there was someone who had the part it would be so much easier.
 
Yes it’s just the mount that is damaged, a bit warped and split in three places. I’ve had a good look online and there’s nothing available. I found an engineer who wants to take on the job of fixing it, I think it can be gerry rigged up to some standard. I wish there was someone who had the part it would be so much easier.
Well, someone who wants to do it is always a good starting point in my book.
I dare say it would have been a spare part that wasn't a special order from Lurem and as you know they are no more.
Cheers, Andy
 
I recently took delivery of a Lurem 310 is very good condition but needing a couple of parts. I managed to find out Metabo carried on the manufacturing of these machines when Lurem went under.

https://www.powertoolspares.com/met...g-w-combination-machine.m/029003100110/spares

If you look at the plans for this machine, they are identical to Lurem. The part I ordered was no longer in stock but you might be lucky?

I’m about to change out the planer head as the next task - with very few instructions to help! 😬

Let me know how you get on

Andy
 
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