Lathe problem

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davidjk

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I wonder if someone can help me, i have a clarke cwl20rv wood lathe that i picked up secondhand, after giving it a clean and grease and turning a piece of wood i noticed that the lathe is noisy and knocks/grumbly a little and the turned work has grooves in it, i had a mini lathe and never had this problem so i don't think it is me. i suspect that maybe the bearings are on there way out but hope it is something else. does anyone have any ideas?
 
I would say the grooves are either down to heavy tooling or the Work being out of true in the chuck. If the lathe is really noisy and knocking it could be the drive belt ?
Good luck sorting it out
 
You probably don't want to here this. But personally I would just cut your losses and throw it out sounds like bearings as well as being hard to get other spares. Save your money and use it on a decent lathe even if it is a second hand one. There are many posts here on recomendations
 
Fire_frogs":2ey4rye0 said:
I would say the grooves are either down to heavy tooling or the Work being out of true in the chuck. If the lathe is really noisy and knocking it could be the drive belt ?
Good luck sorting it out
i will try a new belt first and see if it helps
 
I must say I do kind of agree with dalboy. Woodturning isn't a cheap thing to do but you do have to think safety too. Having a lump of wood spinning around on something that isn't running true can really do some damage if your tool catches . Hopefully you sort it out and start having fun .
 
Hi, i got a new belt but it didn't help, so i decided to have a look at it. 2 of the bearings had a lumpy spot when you turn it, so i stripped it down and replaced the bearings, all parts put back together and it runs perfectly.
 
I bought a 13mm taper drill chuck to fit Scheppach DMS 900
I removed the parallel round bar from the tailstock, only to find it left a 25mm hole.
What do I need to get to reduce the 25mm to something that will accept the 13mm drill chuck.
 
Garmin":3krn11ri said:
I bought a 13mm taper drill chuck to fit Scheppach DMS 900
I removed the parallel round bar from the tailstock, only to find it left a 25mm hole.
What do I need to get to reduce the 25mm to something that will accept the 13mm drill chuck.

you need either:

a 2MT drill chuck. You may be able to replace the taper in your drill chuck. You sometimes need to turn the handle to extend the tailstock a bit to get the taper to bite. I have a couple of centres that I dont need to do so, but my drill chuck you do.

Not sure what you mean by the parallel round bar.

A pic might help.
 
By the parallel bar I meant the bar that screws in and out of the tailstock, I have to remove this to insert any other piece.
Is there not some sort of reducer/ insert, that will do 25mm to 13mm.
 
Yes there is a hole through it and it has a pointed revolving centre. I removed this hoping the hole this was in would fit, but its not even close.
How does your drill chuck fit in to your tailstock?
It seems as if mine has a bit missing, the 25mm hole seems very big and I cannot find a drill chuck with such a large 25mm taper to fit.
 
DSCN2341.JPG


The one on the right is a No.2 MT, the one on the left a No.1 MT with a sleeve next to it. Are you trying to fit a No.2 into a taper designed for a No.1?
 

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I have no idea what the M 1 or M2 sizes correspond to? all I know is the hole is 25mm, my drill chuck is 13mm.
If you can explain M1 in 30mm I might have a better idea as to what I need.
 
The 25mm hole in the tailstock is for the barrel, not the accessory's taper. Put the barrel back in, it doesn't need to be removed more than once in a blue moon. If your chuck's taper does not fit directly into the barrel it is too big - get another taper or another chuck, it is not the fault of the barrel. Forget the 25mm hole - nothing other than the barrel fits it.
 
Manual for your lathe is available to download from Clarke
- https://www.clarkeservice.co.uk/product ... thes.shtml

It sounds like you have removed the tailstock spindle rather than the centre from the spindle.
The manual says that your both the headstock & tailstock have a #2 morse taper (MT2 or 2MT) & that the tailstock is self ejecting (page 11). Morse tapers need to be clean & dry.
If it didn't come with one, source a suitable length of rod to use as a knock out bar for the morse taper centres.
 
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