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That won't snap.

Depends how good your joint mechanics are. Would have been better had you rotated the work surface 90 degrees and so had your oak slats aligned different. It is a good job for sure but is not difficult in a well equipped workshop with modern machinery.
 
Depends how good your joint mechanics are. Would have been better had you rotated the work surface 90 degrees and so had your oak slats aligned different. It is a good job for sure but is not difficult in a well equipped workshop with modern machinery.

Mechanically I agree, however asthetically it would be totally wrong. I like things to look right, maybe you take a more practical approach. I'll take a chance they don't have 10 people dancing on the edge.
My joint mechanics are in my opinion adequate enough to last.
Absolutely, I find making stuff like this a piece of piiss, woodwork is for thickies as I have been told many times. It always amazes me though as I know well equipped workshops with modern macinery which can knock out complete shiite still, strange when its not difficult.
 
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Bob; what is the paint you are using please? It has been sprayed; yes?

Hi, we spray 2 coats of primer and a sprayed top coat in the workshop. Install and then I have a hand painter who applies 2 or 3 coats of paint on site. We tend to use morrells AC for spraying and F&B or little greene Co for hand paints
 
Absolutely, I find making stuff like this a piece of piiss, woodwork is for thickies as I have been told many times. It always amazes me though as I know well equipped workshops with modern macinery which can knock out complete shiite still, strange when its not difficult.

At a family meal a few years ago my then wifes brother in law (who liked everyone to know he was an "accountant in the city") commented that his 8yr old son could do what I do, so yeah common knowledge that woodworking is easy and just a job for us thickies :rolleyes:
 
Fantastic job, did you use a stain blocking primer? Only asking as I know from experience that with moisture Tulipwood can sometimes show yellow staining.
 
Fantastic job, did you use a stain blocking primer? Only asking as I know from experience that with moisture Tulipwood can sometimes show yellow staining.

No, but in 20 years as an company owner and 5 prior to that at a kitchen company, I have never seen this or even heard / been told of it happening on Poplar
Possibly because we end up with 5 coats on it.
 
At a family meal a few years ago my then wifes brother in law (who liked everyone to know he was an "accountant in the city") commented that his 8yr old son could do what I do, so yeah common knowledge that woodworking is easy and just a job for us thickies :rolleyes:
It's so easy I'm just surprised that everyone isn't doing it! :unsure: :ROFLMAO: The number of times I've been told by prospective clients that they could do it themselves but they don't have time :rolleyes:
 
Swanky looking kitchen doctor Bob. Particularly enjoy the curves which for me add a touch of class with a softer feel. The cornice mouldings look rather challenging !
 
Hi Doug,

paint is F&B "De nimes"

Yes for knives but that was a client touch.

I like painting the skirt the same colour on a cabinet but for some reason doing room coving in the same colour looks wrong, but that's my opinion.

Yes De nimes is the colour of choice at the moment, I have just finished a Larder, Boot room and Utility room in that colour.

We get Morrells to colour match their 2K primer to the F&B, 2 coats in the shop then the decorator applies an acrylic top coat and then a clear matt acrylic polyurethane as it is harder wearing.

I've given up using Poplar (Tulipwood) as there can be too much movement in service. Many of our clients have Aga's and the kitchen can be warmer (hotter) than their living rooms.
With doors in frame, the doors/frames can can shrink some 1 to 2 mm, which ruins the look.

Though I have also stopped using birch plywood for the carcasses and only use the butt hinges as dummies.
Maybe its an age thing.
 
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Yes De nimes is the colour of choice at the moment, I have just finished a Larder, Boot room and Utility room in that colour.

We get Morrells to colour match their 2K primer to the F&B, 2 coats in the shop then the decorator applies an acrylic top coat and then a clear matt acrylic polyurethane as it is harder wearing.

I've given up using Poplar (Tulipwood) as there can be too much movement in service. Many of our clients have Aga's and the kitchen can be warmer (hotter) than their living rooms.
With doors in frame, the doors/frames can can shrink some 1 to 2 mm, which ruins the look.

Though I have also stopped using birch plywood for the carcasses and only use the butt hinges as dummies.
Maybe its an age thing.
What do you use for carcasses instead?
 
We buy them in from a local company, they use Egger MFC but apply a 1mm PVC lipping which is superb compared to the usual melamine.
They also make bespoke sizes if pushed. The KD fittings are pre inserted so it takes longer to unbox them than to assemble.

Kitchen And Bedroom Carcasses | lamtek.co.uk | England

I make my carcasses, just works better for us on face frames. Do companys still edge in thin mel, I don't do lay on very often but if we do, I use 1mm PVC to cover hidden edges and 2mm PVC on visible edges.
I do some contract work for quite a few high end kitchen companies, some send us carcasses, again very good quality.
 

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