Laminate in Garage? Good/bad idea?

[sitefive]

I want to convert my garage to extra workshop space but have come to the conclusion that my plain concrete floor is just nasty/hard/cold and you have to deal with the concrete dust all the time as well,therefore Looking for a cheap/fast/easy material to put on a hard concrete floor which would give the effect of a solid floor where you can work all day as well.
The first thing that comes to my mind is just a super cheap laminate , but... I want to use the garage to store cars as well when I need it ,worrying that the amounts of mass from cars would just mess it up and crack it up when driven across?

Is this idea just plain stupid -to use a laminate in garage where I will store cars as well? I don't care that I will scratch /dent the laminate at all I just need a good surface.
I have thought about just putting down OSB sheets or floorboards, but it will be slight more expensive for some floorboards and I don't like standing/working on both of the materials and they aren't as easy to clean as laminate is.
Any suggestions/ideas? I have thought about just painting the floor to get rid of the concrete dust..but..it will be still really cold and not nice to work on at all since the concrete is kinda rough at the moment.

 

[marcros]

What about painting/sealing the floor and using anti fatigue matting by machines or your bench?

I also find that good footwear makes a big difference

 

[biskit]

I've used paint on my garage floor :? On three occasions, not happy with it. Now got 7mil pic garage floor tiles (not cheap though) I found good thermal footwear ideal on concrete very good. I would not use laminate in the garage.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Personally I wouldn't use laminate as it can become slippery when dusty.

Paint is cheap, Aldi currently has 2.5L for £14.99.

+1 for good footwear. I like Dickies socks and DeWalt boots. I can wear them all day.

For a top-class job I can recommend CaberShield flooring over polystyrene. There are different grades of polystyrene, though, and you might need more than the standard if you are parking a car on it. Of course, this is not a cheap option.

 

[AJB Temple]

I would probably seal it and use rubber floor tiles for a cheapish option. In my own workshop (which does not have cars in it) I have basically covered the floor in anti fatigue matting. This is easily tough enough to drive over repeatedly. It is basically heavy duty rubber matting with air compression points all over it.

 

[RobinBHM]

If you want a timber finish, maybe 18mm plywood? You could paint on top of it if you want a smooth surface for easy cleaning.

Or self level followed by rubber tiles, but these can be expensive.

 

[AndyT]

If you want something quick and cheap, how about plain old-fashioned hardboard?
I've used it in my basement workshop for over 25 years, to cover over somewhat manky old concrete. I just laid the sheets loose and stuck gaffer tape along the joins. You might need some adhesive underneath to cope with your car.

I've found it ideal for making a warmer, smoother surface which is easier to sweep clean. Wickes charge £5.50 for a metric 8x4 sheet.

 

[sitefive]

What about painting/sealing the floor and using anti fatigue matting by machines or your bench?

I also find that good footwear makes a big difference

I do like to work /crawl directly on floor as well , painted rough concrete would be no good for that.
I have put in super super cheap laminate in my main workshop and I haven't experienced that it becomes slippery when dusty,
infact I probably like it more than floorboards when you have to work all day on it and clean/sweap it every now and than and want a clean environment all the time.

I have thought about OSB/hardboard as well, but not sure how to fasten them down to floor so they make a solid floor? glue?

 

[fred55]

Just a point to consider My double garage houses my workshop and van, the floor is painted - problem is in the wet if I take the van in then there is a lot more condensation, this causes light rust on tools lathe saw bench if not protected or in cupboards. I now tend to let the van drip dry before parking it inside. You may have similar problems and or worse parking on a wood floor.

 

[Normancb]

Laminate or anything else smooth and shiny is not a good idea for a workshop floor - much to slippy. I made that mistake with my first workshop - laid chipboard and gave it several coats of floor varnish. First time I put my back into a bit of planing, my feet went out from under me.

I've had good success with laying thin expanded polystyrene sheets then putting flooring grade chipboard on top. The weight keeps it all in place without any fixings and the surface is comfortable to work on and not slippery - though with no finish on it it looks a bit mucky now. I don't think you'd have any problem running a car over it - the load is distributed - but water might be a problem if you put wet cars away, but as the previous poster says, warm, wet cars and machinery are not a good mixture. There are EPS suppliers around who will cut 8 x 4 sheets to any thickness you want - ask for fire-retardant grade.

 

[Lons]

I have the area around my benches covered with reclaimed engineered flooring similar to laminate and don't have a problem with it but am constantly aware that it can be slipp so am fastidious about sweeping up. I have to be extra careful though when using a ladder to access the storage high up which I need to do regularly.

I don't, and wouldn't put a vehicle in there, garages are for working in, cars can live outside. :lol:

Had I not already had the flooring, I would have bought this as I've looked at it numerous times when in Costco. Comes in a 6 m roll around 2.3 m wide http://www.costco.co.uk/view/p/versarol ... -cm-174714

Bob

 

[sitefive]

Quick question, how good surface do you get when using the self leveling floor compounds? The biggest problem with my currentconcrete floor is that it's really uneaven/patchy as it was supposed to be just a garage floor where to store the car so when I made it I mixed in really rough sand with tiny rocks as that's what I had at th moment available so all the dirt gets trapped in it really easily. Do the self leveling compounds provide glass like smooth finish which could be ideal for a floor in final finish?

 

[Steve Maskery]

I don't know about glass-smooth but they are quite smooth. However, they are NOT self-levelling, you have to trowel them.

The only place I have seen real self-levelling cement floors was in Zambia. There they flood - and I do mean flood, several inches of water - and let it dry out. The result is smooth and flat.

 

[Wuffles]

Quick question, how good surface do you get when using the self leveling floor compounds? The biggest problem with my currentconcrete floor is that it's really uneaven/patchy as it was supposed to be just a garage floor where to store the car so when I made it I mixed in really rough sand with tiny rocks as that's what I had at th moment available so all the dirt gets trapped in it really easily. Do the self leveling compounds provide glass like smooth finish which could be ideal for a floor in final finish?

Self-levelling compounds are generally not suitable for a final floor finish. It'll state that on the packet probably. They're for levelling out below something else.

Have you considered an epoxy based paint?

 

[deema]

Looked at the same problem some time ago, started out considering self-levelling and then industrial rubber tiles, great idea as I could take them with me if / when I move or expand the area. The cost was prohibitive however.

The solution was to first place a DPM down and then batten the floor with 2x1 which enabled me to flatten it out and remove the dips and bumps by scribing and or packing as necessary. Between the lattes fill with polyestirene for both heat retention and to create a floating floor for load bearing. Over the top standard floor boards / paint if required.

When materials were costed it was about half that of tiles. It's much warmer than before with a slight natural give which is excellent for standing on. Extra lattes / battens added for where machines where to stand reducing vibration

 

[JR147]

I've used this stuff in my workshop and found it to be very good. Comfortable enough to stand on all day and more forgiving if you drop anything.

http://www.ecotileflooring.com/applicat ... -flooring/

 

[sitefive]

thanks for the suggestions about those special tiles, but they are out of my budget by probably 10x ,
I got maybe £100 to get a decent floor AND convert a 25m2 dungeon in a livable space where I can work in.



Sooo how decent of finish do you get when using the self leveling compounds? can you paint it straight away and get rather smooth surface which won't be a source of concrete dust?
At the moment I'm still thinking about the Laminate OR just leveling the floor to rather smooth finish if that's possible.

 

[Lons]

thanks for the suggestions about those special tiles, but they are out of my budget by probably 10x ,
I got maybe £100 to get a decent floor AND convert a 25m2 dungeon in a livable space where I can work in.



Sooo how decent of finish do you get when using the self leveling compounds? can you paint it straight away and get rather smooth surface which won't be a source of concrete dust?
At the moment I'm still thinking about the Laminate OR just leveling the floor to rather smooth finish if that's possible.

Yes you can get a decent surface with self leveling compound buit there are a few issues.

1). As said, it's meant as a surface preparation to be covered by other materials and doesn't wear well. e.g. if you run a car over it it will probably lift under the wheels.
....... I would think if you move any machinery etc on small wheels or castors you would get the same resultant damage.
2). You need practice to lay it is it needs to be troweled near flat or you'll get ridges and you need to work reasonably quickly.
3). If the existing surface is loose or cracked then you have to repair that first.
4). Unless you buy reinforced compound with added fibres then, from memory it's best up to about 3 or 4mm max depth.
5). It's a cement based product so has to dry fully before you can paint it.

personally I wouldn't bother and would bite the bullet and stick down a ply floor.

 

[sitefive]

plywood over here costs almost 2x more than floorboards..no way I'm buying ply for that purpose

 

[Wuffles]

You're buying the wrong ply in the wrong place then.


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