Knob replacement

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rs6mra

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I have spent the last hour searching online for a replacement knob to go on my bandsaw but to no avail.
I reckon I need one with a D shaft and the spindle it's supposed to fit onto is 8mm.
Photos attached.
 

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Have you tried searching for control knobs?

Alternative ideas if you can't find one or a temporary fix until you do.
Get somebody to 3D print you one
Buy one with an 8mm bore, on the face cut a slot across the side of the bore for a piece of flat material to be inserted to create the flat
Buy one with an 8mm bore, drill a hole through the side and insert a pin to create the flat
Turn or find a piece of tube that will push tightly over the cracked diameter to hold it together.
 
I've made smaller D shaft knobs from wood by drilling a round hole, then gluing in a small piece to create the flat edge of the D. As a quick fix this looks like 10 minute job with a plywood scrap, hole saw and some mitrebond/CA glue.

No ideas on a source for a "proper" replacement, sorry.
 
Searching Ebay for an"8mm D shaft control knob" throws up a few cooker knobs, but there seems to be a fairly limited selection. Perhaps they could do - at least as a temporary solution
Otherwise, repair ,or make your own, as others have suggested
 
A knob with round hole and grub screw through the side is the quick fix
Yes,...Preferably a metal knob/ handle rather than a plastic one.
One of the plastic knobs on my bandsaw broke in a similar way to the OP's.....I ended up replacing it with a metal Bristol Lever.....had no problems with it since.
 
Make one from wood?
@Jacob, you just reminded me that I always was who I am today.:ROFLMAO:
Done that with the old gas cooker knobs, and they went all greasy, lol.
Can't remember how I made them.
We didn't have a welder back in the day, but then again you couldn't buy
a welder for 40 pound.
 
I have called a few outlets and they don't stock them so I'll attempt a fix with epoxy glue and then go from there.
 
@Jacob, you just reminded me that I always was who I am today.:ROFLMAO:
Done that with the old gas cooker knobs, and they went all greasy, lol.
Can't remember how I made them.
We didn't have a welder back in the day, but then again you couldn't buy
a welder for 40 pound.
I'm into make and mend. Not just because I'm a skinflint but also because it's a little challenge!
 
The challenge often involves a rummage around for a suitable item to repurpose,
A lot more things can become a consideration when one has a little shoebox welder.

A no brainer for a complete setup with suitable rods, (I even tested this machine with oversized rods shown)
shield and wire brush included,
All for what's likely four times the cost of a cheap knob.
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If only the collar is split then a suitable sized piece of metal tube glued on around it may do the trick. Or just buy a metal knob with an 8 mm hole and drill and thread it to take a grub screw to bear on the flat of the shaft.
 
Take a casting of the glued original in latex and cast one in resin, I think I have seen a few videos on Youtube especially from the restoration scene.
 
The challenge often involves a rummage around for a suitable item to repurpose,
A lot more things can become a consideration when one has a little shoebox welder.

A no brainer for a complete setup with suitable rods, (I even tested this machine with oversized rods shown)
shield and wire brush included,
All for what's likely four times the cost of a cheap knob.
View attachment 145763View attachment 145764
How do you find it Ttrees?
Picked up one last year but haven’t even opened the box yet. Which rods do you recommend for it? I’m assuming the ones that come with it aren’t up to much.
 
Best fifty euro's I've ever spent Noel.
I found the supplied rods really really good, gave a nice spattery texture to the rods, spatter being a sign of good heat,
2.5mm rods are good enough for 5mm angle iron machine bases and the likes.
The leads are decent, and nice and rubbery, not plasticy,
Supplied shield needs some insulation tape, and also a clear plastic screen to protect the glass. (I like having equal weight for balance, don't like flippy helmets)
Both shield and electrode gun are fairly lightweight, which I like,
Never used supplied tack hammer/brush in favour of a wee warrington pin hammer.

Just bought some more rods as they were on discount, glad to see they are now supplied in nice bag within box, decent rods, perhaps not as good as supplied ones,not tested the new ones yet properly to see if the performance might be due to slight damp, but other rods seem similar with no spatter evident.
Perhaps I shouldn't have used 3.2mm rods I had on it, it certainly didn't like it by the noise, this has a thermal cut out which takes a half hour to cool down, which will happen in 10mins with oversized rods, compared to say a half hour of productive hefty tacks using 2.5mm rods.
Perhaps it might be the damp shed, I can't say.


All in all with suitable 2.5mm rods, I find this machine is much easier to use than the large one at me folks,
Starts an ark so much easier for some reason.
Just need to be a bit more patient if you're used to 3.2mm rods on 5mm steel,
the smaller bead needs a bit more travel, (Yes it has the power to melt through)
which I find way easier to control compared to the larger machine with leads like something like a ships rope,
This machine will teach one good habits, not a bad thing to say about it.

A game changer for one who needs engineering solutions due to space constraints.

Tom
 
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