Knife sharpening tips

[Mr Ed]

I need to sharpen the kitchen knives and never seem to get a very good result when sharpening knives. I should say I can achieve a brilliant edge on my chisels and plane blades but knives seem more difficult for some reason.

I have a Tormek but was too mean to buy the knife jig. I also have diamond stones etc..

Any knife sharpening experts care to spill the beans on the right way to do it?

Cheers, Ed

 

[wizer]

There are lots of videos on YouTube. I tried it and couldn't get the knack. It's tricky. I've seen them put a coin on the stone to act as a bevel guide. My knives did get sharper, but looked a little scrappy.

 

[woodbloke]

Ed - use a good quality steel and hold it handle uppermost, apply the kitchen knife to it on the down stroke, ie the sharpening action is away from the hand holding the steel (not the way that Ramsey does it) You can get a lot of pressure and get a really good edge...have just done my carving knife for the roast pig tonight for T - Rob

 

[Mr Ed]

I'm OK with maintaining the edge with a steel once its sharp, but I find that after many times with the steel it seems to need something more to regain the edge.

We're having roast pork tonight as well - great minds think alike clearly!

Cheers, Ed

 

[wizer]

Steels are for honing. They need to be taken to stones to regain the edge

 

[Jake]

I use my diamond stones for resharpening, and the steel inbetween.

 

[Robert]

I remember my Dad doing this with a steel( he was a Master butcher). The steel he used was around 18 inches long, with a brass ferrule made with a diameter of an inch and a half as a guard. Held in the left hand( he was left handed) he would "steel" a knife, small boning knifes and long steak knifes, very fast with the steel pointing up and stropping towards his left hand. It never looked safe but he only cut himself on blunt knifes, usually while boning out or with a clever. That would be very messy and plasters and bandages were needed.

 

[Anonymous]

I use Japanese laminated knives which (like the tools) have laminated blades (64 layers) with the inner layer very hard idamascus steel.

When they lose their edge, i strop then on a ceramic 'steel' which works a treat - I find the metal 'steels' not so good.

For grinding, buy the Tormek jig! It works great

 

[Harbo]

You need one of these:

http://www.edgeproinc.com/

The Pro version will also sharpen chisels etc.

Rod

 

[Woodmagnet]

I remember my Dad doing this with a steel( he was a Master butcher). The steel he used was around 18 inches long, with a brass ferrule made with a diameter of an inch and a half as a guard. Held in the left hand( he was left handed) he would "steel" a knife, small boning knifes and long steak knifes, very fast with the steel pointing up and stropping towards his left hand. It never looked safe but he only cut himself on blunt knifes, usually while boning out or with a clever. That would be very messy and plasters and bandages were needed.

That's how i do it too, ex meat butcher, now wood butcher. :lol:

 

[paulm]

The Tormek jig is well worth getting if you already have the grinder.

These are also widely used for pocket, fixed blade and kitchen knives and very effective indeed, and highly regarded in the knife forums/community

http://www.handyniknaks.co.uk/spyderco- ... -121-p.asp

You can purchase some diamond coated rods for them for heavier/quicker reshaping before using the medium and fine stones.

I also use waterstones freehand and it's quite easy with a bit of practice, just need to keep a constant angle, diamond stones should be fine too.

Cheers, Paul

 

[John. B]

If you have the Tormek, Buy the jig.
I have both knife jigs, and they are worth it. i've a set of Japanese kitchen knives, and with the Tormek you can get them like razors.

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I do mine one 1000 grit water stone, and steel in between.

Pete

 

[gidon]

Ed
For day to day use I use a Trend diamond steel.
You can use with a light touch like any other steel, but you can also restore an edge using a more agressive circular motion along the length of the blade. Best grip for this is holding the steel vertically somewhere where it won't slip.
If I've let the edge get too bad I go to the diamond stones - a red 600 grit is a good place to start.
And worse than that it goes to the Tormek . The knife jig is one of the cheaper jigs if IIRC.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[frugal]

I use Japanese laminated knives which (like the tools) have laminated blades (64 layers) with the inner layer very hard idamascus steel.

When they lose their edge, i strop then on a ceramic 'steel' which works a treat - I find the metal 'steels' not so good.

Certain japanese knives like Global specifically state not to use a metal steel, only a ceramic one as the metal ones can damage the edge.

 

[bugbear]

I use Japanese laminated knives which (like the tools) have laminated blades (64 layers) with the inner layer very hard idamascus steel.

When they lose their edge, i strop then on a ceramic 'steel' which works a treat - I find the metal 'steels' not so good.

Certain japanese knives like Global specifically state not to use a metal steel, only a ceramic one as the metal ones can damage the edge.

Despite having the same name, modern ceramic and diamond steels work in a completely different manner to a traditional butcher's steel.

A traditional butcher's steel works by cold forging (on a microscopic scale).

The modern ones are fine abrasives.

Global knives are very hard and brittle, and any attempt to cold forge them is doomed to failure.

BugBear

 

[Mr Ed]

Certain japanese knives like Global specifically state not to use a metal steel, only a ceramic one as the metal ones can damage the edge.

Oops, thats exactly what I've been doing to my Global knife..

Cheers, Ed

 

[Charlotte]

Does anyone know how to make/where to buy a sensibly priced knife jig at 15 degrees?

I use the Global knives I bought working as a chef. As many of us used them, the kitchen had an electric water stone set up that reground them perfectly. Mine are now very dull and the kitchen shops I've asked either won't sharpen Globals or use very agricultural methods I don't trust!

I've been using scary sharp with chisels and plane irons and see no reason why it wouldn't be suitable for my knives but have so far not dared to due to the need for a jig!

 

[Anonymous]

I use Japanese laminated knives which (like the tools) have laminated blades (64 layers) with the inner layer very hard idamascus steel.

When they lose their edge, i strop then on a ceramic 'steel' which works a treat - I find the metal 'steels' not so good.

Certain japanese knives like Global specifically state not to use a metal steel, only a ceramic one as the metal ones can damage the edge.

Interesting. I wouldn't consider a metal steel and bought my knives in a specialist cooking shop (they are seriously into knives!!) in Leicester along with the ceramic steel. I have seen Global knives and none were laminated though....

Mine are laminated knives with european style handles. These if you're interested (I have tried a few manufactureres over the yearas and these are the best so far by a large margin - balance and edge retention + sharpness):

http://www.cooks-knives.co.uk/acatalog/Tojiro_Senkou_3_Piece_Knife_Set_and_Case.html
http://www.cooks-knives.co.uk/acatalog/Tojiro_Senkou_18cm_Vegetable_Knife.html

 

[paulm]

Does anyone know how to make/where to buy a sensibly priced knife jig at 15 degrees?

Try the Spyderco Sharpmaker link posted earlier in the thread.

Cheers, Paul