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Kity 613 Bandsaw - help please

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Charlie Woody

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I am working my way through Steve Maskery's bandsaw dvd and have come across the following difficulties, see photos below:

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I cannot get at the nuts to remove the bearing guide for cleaning. What type of spanner / socket do I need to fit inside to get at this nut please?

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Due to the frame of the saw I cannot check for coplanar. How do I work around this please?

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The tracking adjuster / wheel seems to have seized as if I tighten and then release it does not return to the previous position.

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I have removed the spring clip (not sure if that is correct term!) but the wheel does not come off. Without taking if off I don't know how I can clean and lubricate it. Any ideas please?

Hope some one can help me with this please.
 

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Cegidfa

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Hello Charlie,

What you need is a nut spinner, that is, a screwdriver with a socket on the end. They are very easy to use, as the nut can be 'loaded' in the end and offered into the hole.
Blu-tak will hold it in place if the nut is being stroppy. The problem is finding the correct size needed.
I'm sure someone will be able to talk you through the other problem.

Regards...Dick.
 

Paul Hannaby

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Hi Charlie,
I just tried with my 613 and a 10mm socket from a 3/8" drive set fitted perfectly.

Looking at the exploded diagram in the manual, the circlip on the wheels are to retain the bearings, which at a guess I would say are the sealed for life type so they are probably best left alone unless there was a problem with them. If you did need to remove the wheels and bearings, I think you would need a gear puller.

Perhaps this is just a workaround but this is what I always did with my 613 (not knowing anything about coplanar :wink: ) - This type of bandsaw has flat tyres and the blade runs on the edge of the wheel with the teeth overhanging so my method of setting up was to tension the blade until it was correctly aligned with the lower wheel, then adjust the tracking until the alignment with the top wheel was correct. This is the method described in the manual. I guess if this turned out not to be possible to get correct blade alignment then something more radical would be needed to align the wheels. Perhaps a long straight edge board with a section cut out of the middle would allow the wheel alignment to be checked?
 

Charlie Woody

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Hi Dick

Thanks for that. If Paul's suggestion does not work then I will try that.

Hi Paul
I had tried my socket set but the socket was too big for the recess. I shall ask my neighbour if he has a smaller set .... before I splash out on a new set.

If I could "unfreeze" the tensioning lever (see third photo from the top of original post) then I could try that. This was why I was trying to get the wheel off to try and get at the tensioning lever to free it. Have you had any problem like this with your machine?

Thanks guys.
 

cansdale

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To test for co-planar you could take a strip of ply, and using one straight edge cut out a "C" so that you have a strip with 2 straight edges that will reach around the sawtable. Thus allowing you to reach both wheels for trueing. Regards Cans
 

Paul Hannaby

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Hi Charlie,
No I have never had any problems with the tracking adjuster or the upper wheel shaft sticking. The saw has been 100% reliable since I had it. Almost all the wood I cut is hardwood so perhaps that and the lack of sticky resin deposits has something to do with it?
 

Charlie Woody

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Thanks Paul.

I can't work out how to to lubricate the tracking adjuster to free it. The wheel spins ok, no evidence of resistance, I was only trying to remove it to see if I could get at the tracking adjuster from that side.
 

Paul Hannaby

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Hi Charlie,
It looks like the screws that hold the cover plate for the tracking assembly are the ones almost under the rim of the upper wheel. If you can get them out, you should be able to access the pivot pin. Failing that, maybe you can get a long stem oil can and lubricate each end of the pin through the small slot in each side of the housing.
 
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