barkwindjammer
Established Member
is there such a thing?, something that could be used outdoors as well as in, and is PVA really pants?
'Jack of all' glue
- Thread starter barkwindjammer
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
KeithS
Established Member
Hi
Take a look at titebond, been useing titebond2 recently and can recomend it for both inside and out side use.
Keith
Take a look at titebond, been useing titebond2 recently and can recomend it for both inside and out side use.
Keith
woodbloke
Established Member
A D4 PVA will do most things, TBIII's not too bad either in my view - Rob
2tone
Established Member
i've just started using titebond II recently and i'm so happy with it, i done so much research on it before i bought it and from what i can see, it looks to me like the industry standard these days. Also bought some cascamite which i'm yet to try out - i hear its not very flexable so not good for chairs or items that are load bareing etc,
Titebond II rules!!!!
Titebond II rules!!!!
joiner_sim
Established Member
This stuff is great! Can be used in marine applications!
"cascamite" for those who know it by name.
But the link here to the product
http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-325007/everbuild-resintite-concentrated-powder-wood-glue-1-5kg.html I cannot comment on the supplier as I've never used that website.
"cascamite" for those who know it by name.
But the link here to the product
http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-325007/everbuild-resintite-concentrated-powder-wood-glue-1-5kg.html I cannot comment on the supplier as I've never used that website.
jimi43
Established Member
Titebond...Original for inside work over "multi" glues and II for outside work.
Gorilla glue and IMHO ALL the Poly glues including Titebond Poly are rubbish. I have tried them over and over again and people on here say they think they're great...well...I tried...and they suck.
Jim
Gorilla glue and IMHO ALL the Poly glues including Titebond Poly are rubbish. I have tried them over and over again and people on here say they think they're great...well...I tried...and they suck.
Jim
The Shark
Established Member
Hi barkwindjammer,
No, PVA is not pants - a good one will cover most of what you want to do. As has been previously mentioned, Titebond III is also a good all round adhesive.
All in my humble opinion, of course.
Malc
No, PVA is not pants - a good one will cover most of what you want to do. As has been previously mentioned, Titebond III is also a good all round adhesive.
All in my humble opinion, of course.
Malc
devonwoody
Established Member
jimi43, your comments (not claiming invalid) surprise me, I have used Titebond3 for some years now (much of it with my strip designs) and I have never had a failure, joint or laminating wise.
Perhaps you purchased your glue at the wrong time of year, I like to buy around July and store indoors all the year
, I reckon if anyone purchased any glue this week it will have come from a cold and icy warehouse somewhere, perhaps that might be the problem.
Perhaps you purchased your glue at the wrong time of year, I like to buy around July and store indoors all the year
, I reckon if anyone purchased any glue this week it will have come from a cold and icy warehouse somewhere, perhaps that might be the problem.
OPJ
Established Member
Does Titebond III leave a thick glue line? Just something I heard.
woodbloke
Established Member
Olly...no, good stuff :wink: - RobOPJ":1wrpz1tk said:
woodbloke
Established Member
joiner_sim":1buoovpn said:
Not suitable though for apps where the timber is in contact with water 100% of the time - Rob
Sometime it helps to choose a glue to suit the job.
For most of the indoor stuff that I make then Titebond is excellent.
It grips quickly, so clamping time can be quite short, which is handy when gluing up lots of frames for example.
For a large complicated carcase however, with lots of clamps and lots of corners to be kept square then Cascamite comes into its own since it takes 6 hours to set properly and allows loads of time to assemble and glue everything.
It is essential though to seal up the glue in a poly bag between jobs as if any moist air gets in then it will activate the glue which will be useless next time you come to use it. This is because it is a two part glue with the hardner ready mixed in, which becomes active when mixed with water.
Finally a few years ago I made some large outdoor planters from tanalised timber and I used West System Epoxy thinking that if it is good enough for boats then it should survive outside in our garden. It also has twenty minutes or so before gripping to allow for clamp adjusting.
It is expensive but since the resin and hardner are only mixed as required then I find that it lasts for years without going off.
For most of the indoor stuff that I make then Titebond is excellent.
It grips quickly, so clamping time can be quite short, which is handy when gluing up lots of frames for example.
For a large complicated carcase however, with lots of clamps and lots of corners to be kept square then Cascamite comes into its own since it takes 6 hours to set properly and allows loads of time to assemble and glue everything.
It is essential though to seal up the glue in a poly bag between jobs as if any moist air gets in then it will activate the glue which will be useless next time you come to use it. This is because it is a two part glue with the hardner ready mixed in, which becomes active when mixed with water.
Finally a few years ago I made some large outdoor planters from tanalised timber and I used West System Epoxy thinking that if it is good enough for boats then it should survive outside in our garden. It also has twenty minutes or so before gripping to allow for clamp adjusting.
It is expensive but since the resin and hardner are only mixed as required then I find that it lasts for years without going off.
Brian Jackson
Established Member
- Joined
- 12 Oct 2009
- Messages
- 82
- Reaction score
- 0
jimi43
Established Member
devonwoody":1445yxsb said:
I'm not talking about Titebond III but Titebond Polyurethane Liquid glue (the purple bottle).
I like all the aliphatic glues but I can't get on with the polyurethanes like that or Gorilla....it's probably me...but I have tried hard to accept it...as others here have praised the properties highly.
I think that I prefer the strength of Original when used inside to any other but obviously no use for wet outdoor environments. I did a test on some pine blocks...glued them all in the same condtions following the instruction carefully and watching out for temperature limits and then left them a week and hit them with a hammer. The Titebond original broke along the wood grain...NOT the joint. Titebond II snapped on the joint in parts but some of the wood. The Poly snapped by just tapping it. Maybe I have a duff bottle?
Jim
I'm going to have to try the Titebond and Gorilla polys, as it seems that everyone who uses them gets a really bad impression of poly glues, and I get on well with most of the polys I've tried (especially Balcotan).
The Titebond glues are a bit over-rated in my view, another US brand name which has got over-exposed through great marketing. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with them, and I used II (I think, maybe it was Original?) for a couple of years as my standard PVA.
I began to get a bit more sceptical when I realised that the "Aliphatic resin" thing is marketing nonsense (as PVA is an aliphatic resin). It's got yellow colouring - big deal - and then loads of tackifiers to make it glorpy and feel extra stickifying and 'grabby' when you initially put things together, but cramps make that irrelevant for me and I'd actually rather have something thinner and easier to spread fast.
The Titebond glues are a bit over-rated in my view, another US brand name which has got over-exposed through great marketing. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with them, and I used II (I think, maybe it was Original?) for a couple of years as my standard PVA.
I began to get a bit more sceptical when I realised that the "Aliphatic resin" thing is marketing nonsense (as PVA is an aliphatic resin). It's got yellow colouring - big deal - and then loads of tackifiers to make it glorpy and feel extra stickifying and 'grabby' when you initially put things together, but cramps make that irrelevant for me and I'd actually rather have something thinner and easier to spread fast.
jimi43
Established Member
Titebond is not a PVA...it is an aliphatic resin glue (yellow glue in the States):
IMHO and borne out by testing...the relative strength of the PVA and Titebond range shows that Titebond Original has the lead in all parameters except waterproof aspect. Hence my preference for Original where water is not an issue.
I think that Gorilla glue is vastly hyped but Titebond's reputation has come from performance...their extended range (including the poly and the fake hide) may be resting on the performance of the Original and II
We all use glues for different reasons with different woods...I use hot melt for neck tenons for instance BECAUSE it can be reheated and the neck adjusted either when new or later when the action needs changing. The same goes for furniture makers who want to emulate the properties of hide glues in antiques or veneers.
Cheers
Jim
IMHO and borne out by testing...the relative strength of the PVA and Titebond range shows that Titebond Original has the lead in all parameters except waterproof aspect. Hence my preference for Original where water is not an issue.
I think that Gorilla glue is vastly hyped but Titebond's reputation has come from performance...their extended range (including the poly and the fake hide) may be resting on the performance of the Original and II
We all use glues for different reasons with different woods...I use hot melt for neck tenons for instance BECAUSE it can be reheated and the neck adjusted either when new or later when the action needs changing. The same goes for furniture makers who want to emulate the properties of hide glues in antiques or veneers.
Cheers
Jim
jimi43
Established Member
Joints":2nnushae said:
No...it fails completely in the cold...
The instructions recommend above 50 deg F for both the glue AND the stock. It's all very well keeping the bottle inside but if you take stock from a cold shed and use it with warm glue the joint will still fail.
Jim
jimi43":1ci9ad0k said:
I've done a lot of digging into this, and my conclusion is that it is marketing bullshit, I'm afraid. You need to dig a little deeper behind the manufacturer's claims. Yellow glue is white PVA glue with yellow dye added. The difference between Original and II is that the latter will be a (probably D3) cross-linking PVA as opposed to a non-cross-linking PVA like Original. I'm not a chemist, but as far as I can work out PVA is itself an aliphatic compound, so the description is very neatly truthful!
The 'strong initial tack' comes with the addition of components called tackifiers, and the fast setting means it has accelerants added. Bar the very cheap ones, most PVAs have those admixtures, in different amounts. Quite a few skip the yellow dye.
