I've updated my series on making double iron planes...

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David, thank you for another helpful video. I have watched some of the others. I must admit that my attention span is usually not that great,

They are, in fact, incredibly boring. I can't imagine doing much more with them than using them as a sometimes reference if I were just getting into making planes. It's a difficult thing for me to make them more concise without leaving out details that I think are important. They probably aren't as important as I think they are.
 
David-


I have quite enjoyed watching your videos.

the one thing I might ask for from your series is better indexing. for a reference set to be useful you have to be able to find what you need in it quickly. I'm not sure how to implement that in youtube, probably with tags.

since you do tend to ramble a bit :) and the videos are long having an index where you could click a link and have it show you the videos where you for instance discussed opening the mouth or selecting wood for the wedge or sharpening or whatever, maybe even to the level of time stamps in the video where that bit begins- this would make the series be quite a bit more useable.

I know that that would be quite a bit of work.
 
That's a good idea. It wouldn't be too difficult, it could be done a video at a time.
 
Just wanted to say thanks for taking the trouble to do these videos - I must confess to not having watched them all, but that's because I haven't made a plane, yet - but it won't be long and I'll be making a 14" jack, and I will be avidly watching the lot! (I'm making sure I have plenty of a particularly excellent Assam tea to keep me awake, never having got on with coffee due to childhood exposure to a particularly cheap and vile brand)

Cheerio,

Carl
 
bugbear":2vhumz5t said:
D_W":2vhumz5t said:
.. the result is in this video. I don't suppose this kind of thing is going to snag too many folks, but if I convince someone else to make their own planes (even one person), it'll be worth the trouble.

I've considered making a Krenov style skew bladed mitre shooting plane, but (at least in the UK) there's no great motivation (other than fun!!) to make your own bench woodies.

They're readily available s/h, in good condition, at very low prices.

My usual jack plane (circa 3/32" camber) is a Preston, bought for £5; I have a razee Marples (£5) set up as a scrub (or at least scrubbier than the Preston), and I have a Bismark "true" scrub (£3), should truly savage stock removal be called for.

BugBear

Now that is something I would find very interesting. :shock: If you do build it, will you do a WIP? :roll: With videos? =P~

Please?

John
 
Carl P":25q87zdv said:
I'm making sure I have plenty of a particularly excellent Assam tea to keep me awake, never having got on with coffee due to childhood exposure to a particularly cheap and vile brand.

Cheerio,

Carl

Good luck with the plane making. It may be a little easier to build a plane a couple of inches longer, but if you have a marples 14" plane to something to cop the measurements off of and the handle fits your hand, you'll be good.

As far as the drink, it'll take something strong. Bummer on the coffee, but you know we will drink the foulest of things here in the states, as tasteless as we are. I usually drink instant coffee on the weekends and admit to liking it #-o
 
swagman":2fi9wkxf said:
Oscar Sedell on another forum channel recently completed a sweet looking skewed mitre plane; traditional construction; pear wood body, and applewood wedge. Excellent craftsmanship.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread. ... anes/page4

Unfortunately, the pictures are not viewable unless one is logged in there. Got a chuckle that all roads tend to lean toward sharpening and steel type (as that thread does). Can't say too much when the longest recent threads seem to be the same type of thing.
 
Oskar Sedell

finally I got around to make a plane for the Phil Edwards skew iron and I thought I'll post the result here.

Plane body: Pear wood
Wedge: 9 degrees, applewood.
Iron: Phil Edwards, 6 mm thick O1.

The bedding angle (B) is 38 degrees measured parallell to the side of the plane. The skew grind (G) of the iron is 75.5 degrees, measured against the side of the iron. The resulting skew angle (S) across the sole is 71.5 degrees, measured against the side of the plane. This amounts to or 90-71.5 = 18.5 degrees skew measured perpendicular to the side.

( For the interested, wanting to make a build with different angles the relation is cos(B)*cos(S) = cos(G), which assumes the sides are perpendicular to the sole i.e a trued blank )

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment. ... 1463332087

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment. ... 1463332153

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment. ... 1463332191
 
Stewie, those links are only available to be viewed if you can log in to sawmill creek. Otherwise, the rest of us can only see a login screen.
 
I have a login there just to view pictures, he did a great job, very tight mouth.

I am toying with making one and worked out the geometry manually, coming out with an iron of 74 and 116 degree corners for a 38 bed 20 skew plane, which is the same format philly uses. I really should get the blade and start on it.
 

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