katellwood
Established Member
I'm quite pleased with the results
Its only a Radiator cover but........
- Thread starter katellwood
- Start date
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blackrodd
Established Member
I'd be pleased too, If I had made it!
very nicely done and just that little bit different.
Regards Rodders
very nicely done and just that little bit different.
Regards Rodders
petermillard
Established Member
Really nicely done - particularly like the woven fronts!
Pete
Pete
John15
Established Member
It looks very nice. A good design to prevent young children from burning themselves. I just have a 120 x 20mm oak shelf over my rads to take ornaments. They help soften the unsightly look of the rads.
John
John
mickthetree
Established Member
very nice design. Is it hard to weave the strips?
Out of interest what joinery do you use for your frames? Domino?
Out of interest what joinery do you use for your frames? Domino?
monkeybiter
Established Member
For my taste that's probably the nicest I've seen.
What's the timber and how thick are the strips?
What's the timber and how thick are the strips?
Mr T
Established Member
Impressive. I bet the frames with the woven bits in were a pipper to glue up.
Chris
Chris
katellwood
Established Member
Thanks for the kind comments now fitted
The strips were easier to weave than I thought they would be, as shown I wove the panels prior to fitting
The joinery, well I'm a traditionalist Mortice and Tenon (not yet advanced to a domino although I have got a biscuit jointer)
The timber Iroko for the top, Brazilian Mahogany for the plinth the rest Ash. The strips were 1" wide and 3mm thick carefully selected for straight grain
Chris, the actual panels were just woven, there was so much tension in them following the weave that I considered no glue was needed.
To facilitate the weave I mounted a 1" router cutter in the router table set to 3mm deep then routed in a strip of 19mm mdf grooves at the correct centres for the strips (this can possibly be seen mounted in the vice when I did the weaving and dictated the width of the strips)
With the same setup I prepared beading with 1" by 3mm deep crosscut grooves and cut the end mitres of the beads to facilitate the position of the strips in the rebate of the main panel. This ensures that the ends of the strips are fixed securely with no possibility of movement, the beads were fixed with screws behind the strip with the most tension (if that makes sense) so as not to be seen when fixed
Final finish, Danish Oil for the Iroko and Mahogany, Osmo for the ash (apparently you need a special thinner Osmo for tropical hardwoods such as Iroko, I found this out when I used their worktop oil on an Iroko worktop which would not dry, only discovered this when I did some research on the Osmo website, wish they would put it on the can)
mickthetree":1n6e4wxn said:
The strips were easier to weave than I thought they would be, as shown I wove the panels prior to fitting
The joinery, well I'm a traditionalist Mortice and Tenon (not yet advanced to a domino although I have got a biscuit jointer)
monkeybiter":1n6e4wxn said:
The timber Iroko for the top, Brazilian Mahogany for the plinth the rest Ash. The strips were 1" wide and 3mm thick carefully selected for straight grain
Mr T":1n6e4wxn said:
Chris, the actual panels were just woven, there was so much tension in them following the weave that I considered no glue was needed.
To facilitate the weave I mounted a 1" router cutter in the router table set to 3mm deep then routed in a strip of 19mm mdf grooves at the correct centres for the strips (this can possibly be seen mounted in the vice when I did the weaving and dictated the width of the strips)
With the same setup I prepared beading with 1" by 3mm deep crosscut grooves and cut the end mitres of the beads to facilitate the position of the strips in the rebate of the main panel. This ensures that the ends of the strips are fixed securely with no possibility of movement, the beads were fixed with screws behind the strip with the most tension (if that makes sense) so as not to be seen when fixed
Final finish, Danish Oil for the Iroko and Mahogany, Osmo for the ash (apparently you need a special thinner Osmo for tropical hardwoods such as Iroko, I found this out when I used their worktop oil on an Iroko worktop which would not dry, only discovered this when I did some research on the Osmo website, wish they would put it on the can)
