I seem to have damp

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Drain rods sounds like a plan actually. Good thinking. It's right in the middle of a 20ft stretch, so hoes and bits of wood were out. Plus the angle changes as it goes along.

I don't want to use a water jet as I'd like to keep as much water out of the workshop as possible.
 
hi tom


Before you go off half cocked , check with your neighbour to see if he has the same as you in his garage from your description of how close it is chances are he has the same problem , whist checking with him check to see if there s no old water pipes buried nearby that could have broken (due to the dry weather ) or a possible surface water drain / down pipe possible blocked that may be the problem , it no good treated the damp Area till you sure you know where the source is coming from so you can cut of the supply to the damp area, cut of the supply & nature will dry the rest out . hc
 
indeed it was rather a freak incident tbh but I wasn't exaggerating when I said it was like a stream through the workshop. It's gone under places I can't get to including piles of wood that was nice and dry. :( I must be due to the debris down there as the place that leaked last year didn't last night.

Communicating with the owner of next door is hard if not impossible as he's now in a home with no family. I guess when the time comes, the house will just go derelict? If it were 2yrs ago I'd have offered to buy it.... and if I was unscrupulous i'd pull the garage down :twisted: :wink:
 
If the gap's that small wizer is it worth roofing over it perhaps?

Roy.
 
I work for a construction company and we had to do something the same as this last year. We could not get down the gap which was to small and long in the end we took some bricks out cleaned all the rubbish away and bricked it back up. This might be the better option as you can make sure all the rubbish is out of the gap. Damp proofing is only hiding the problem which is all the rubbish in the gap.
 
At the end of the day the soil/water level has still got to have a lower point than the water ingress or it could still come through.

Assuming your plot is not inside a hollow.
 
I wanna tell you a story DW. A customer called me out to look at a washing machine he had purchased from me that was dropping the RCD when he turned it on.
And he wasn't happy! All my fault of course.
When I arrived at a rather remote stone cottage the front door was open and a stream of water was flowing down the steps.
I immediately started see expensive problems, till I got into the kitchen. The water wasn't from the washing machine, it was from the hillside behind the house!
It was running in the back door, across the kitchen floor, down the steps into the living room and out the front door.
'Could it be the damp that causing the problem?' I was asked.

Roy.
 
Digit, I recall travelling through Wales in your locality and seeing a For Sale sign which said "the cheapest house in Wales" (it was £1500 at the time and it was exactly has you describe.
 
Tom,

Lostintheforest has got the answer, if you can't clear everything from the outside ends.

If you took out a 3 or 4 bricks every few feet, you should be able to get your arm in with a trowel and scrape it clean. Ideally you should get everything out down below slab level, find a way of preventing any more debris getting in there, and maintain a nice clear air-way to help it dry out after rain.

Mike
 
The one I visited John wouldn't have been a bargain at that price! :lol:

Roy.
 
Right. Taking bricks out scares the bejesus out of me! (I never said I was a man). There is an extension above the workshop. It's held up on the outside wall by piers and a concrete lintel (I think they are the right terms). So does that mean I won't have structural issues with taking bricks out ? How do I remove the bricks ? Hammer and Bolster? More importantly, how do I get them back in without making the problem worse??

Should I still proceed with the sythaprufe after clearing out the debris?

I'm quite tempted to pay to have this done as I'm the very definition of slow, this might not get finished before winter.
 
wizer":3m6f7y58 said:
I'm quite tempted to pay to have this done as I'm the very definition of slow, this might not get finished before winter.

TrimTheKing":3m6f7y58 said:
I reckon you could do it with the drain rods idea, just need to Heath Robinson something up :D

forum meeting at toms then - i'll bring the work pressure washer , trim can bring his drain rods , mike can oversee the brick removal - and if all else fails we can send a small child in like they used with victorian chimneys :D
 
big soft moose":3jxjf9ac said:
wizer":3jxjf9ac said:
I'm quite tempted to pay to have this done as I'm the very definition of slow, this might not get finished before winter.

TrimTheKing":3jxjf9ac said:
I reckon you could do it with the drain rods idea, just need to Heath Robinson something up :D

forum meeting at toms then - i'll bring the work pressure washer , trim can bring his drain rods , mike can oversee the brick removal - and if all else fails we can send a small child in like they used with victorian chimneys :D
Love it! I'll set off now! :D
 
hehe you're more than welcome guys. Can I pay in wood ?

I cleared a space at the front entrance of the 'gap' tonight and ordered a set of drain rods. I'm not convinced tho, getting a good look down there tonight, there is all sorts of junk down there. Bits of broken corrugated roof, lumps of concrete, bricks rubble, litter, drain pipes.... Gawd knows where's all come from. I think my only hope is that the new owners tear their garage down.

Anyway. As soon as the drain rods arrive I'll start phase one.
 
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