How to go from a cutlist to boards?

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bodgermatic

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I'm sure this has been covered on here before, but I can't find the magic combination of words to use with the search - so please point me at previous threads if you know of any...

What process do people follow to go from a cut list to a shopping list? I'm sure the nice chap at the wood yard won't be interested in my list of components, and I need to ask him for 8' of 1 1/2" board, 6' of 1" board, but I don't know where to begin converting the one to the other.

Cheers folks.
 
The phpBB search is notorious for giving loads of results.

I think you'll be surprised if you take your cutlist along to a wood yard. If it's not too busy many will be more than happy to help you.
 
I try and group my components into thicknesses for a start, as that's usually the first question to ask. If you know your supplier normally stocks boards in particular widths then you can work out how many parts you can get from a given width allowing for some wastage.

If the boards are a bit more random then you need to prepare to be flexible and inventive. I got some plans recently and they came with a cutting list, their ideal world cutting list showed 4 big boards in various thicknesses. The reality in the wood yard when trawling through waney edged boards, knots, pith, cracks, shakes meant I had mark out the components roughly as I went and tick them off. Needless to say I had a lot more boards than the lovely cutting list with a much greater wastage
 
Another thing you can try, for example, is to get one batch of components from the same board, for grain continuity.

If you need four rails - two 3ft x 4"x1" and two 2ft x 4"x1" - you could cut that out from a board which was 5ft long x 8" wide.
 
Just take a guess at how much you are going to need and then buy twice as much.

That way you'll have plenty to be able to select pieces for your project, allow for wastage and cock-ups, and hopefully have a bit left over for next time.

In this way a small stock of hardwoods can be built up over a period at barely noticable cost.

Cheers
Brad
 
Thanks folks, I'm sort of relieved that there isn't any magic to it. I'll just bumble my way through it as per... :)
 
It's ususal to allow at least 40% (roughly) for waste if you're buying waney edged boards from a yard. So work out more or less what you need and add about half again. Brads idea is a good one if you can afford to buy a lot of timber in one hit - Rob
 
I found the section of text I submitted into an old GW article (actually written in 2002 and published Jan 07).....here it is slightly modified


It can be daunting faced with 12 foot long, variable width boards to understand how many you need - I translate any cutting list into a timber length most efficient for the project (in this case I used 900mm with a few at 1200mm), work out the total width needed to get all the components and then divide this into 125mm (5") wide planks - it’s lot easier in a timber yard to know you need to get 29 such planks of oak as these can be visualised. Also, a 900 x 125 x 25mm plank (i.e approx 3’ x 5” x 1”) is close to 0.1 cu ft - 29 planks = 2.9 cu ft of Oak. as a check, the cutting list finished dimensions gives 1.7 cu Ft of oak - allowing 40% wastage on thickness (25 mm to 18 mm finished), 20% width wastage due to circular saw and planing and 10% extra because you will make mistakes, have waney edges &knots to avoid - gives a massive 70% uplift - ending up as 2.9 cu ft.

As you can see, this gave a 70% uplift but that was for rough sawn timber, if you are using planed or square edged timber and your individual component lengths are short then the wastage could be less.

The other reason I worked on 125mm wide planks was for ease of planing and thicknessing - wider boards often cup and need to be ripped to this type of width anyway.


Also try and find out the standard lengths the timberyard keep for the chosen timber - applying the above principle can highlight how a slight change to dimensions makes a difference - for instance if the timberyard stocks 2.4m boards and not 3m or 4.8m a design that has components 1200mm long will typically not get 2 out of a 2.4m length, but you would get 2 x 1180mm - so a potentially minor design change could save money.



Dave

Dave
 
The other thing to be aware of is grain direction - you may find you need to get a part from a plank at a skew angle to get the grain running nicely through it. That can take up a lot width allowance. Even better, if you can get to the woodyard, keep an eye on the grain of the planks when you select them. DAMHIKT :oops:

Boz
 
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