How can I fix a twisted door?

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Nothing hard about it. The piece of woods not fit for purpose. Don't pay the invoice until it gets swapped over.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
I had exactly this problem with a solid walnut 4 panel door.

I tried everything to straighten it and eventually, I removed the panels, had some glass cut, replaced the panels with the glass, stuck
4 legs on it and turned it into a table.

Then I bought another door.
 
Question to OP - have you ran some of that retro fit, adhesive draught sealing around the frame?

Most common cause IME
 
You are saying that draught sealer can cause these problems? Interesting, I had not heard of that before. The door was twisted when we moved here. I did put some of that sealing stuff round the door but of course it did not bridge the gap at the top so I put some on the door and some on the frame there. I cannot say if that twisted the door more; it is possible that it did, I just don't know.
 
See it all the time.... people try to bridge a small gap and it just twists the door more and more over time. No going back now.

Either replace the door or deepen the rebate at the lower half (scribe the door in basically)

Personally I would replace the door every time.
 
Trevanion":2p9epow8 said:
ColeyS1":2p9epow8 said:
Trevanion":2p9epow8 said:
Then you should look elsewhere to get your timber !! If you've asked for a piece of timber a particular size and they send you a piece that's got an obvious massive rusty nail embedded, don't accept it.

It's hard when the firm that you buy your timber off supplies all the other timber firms too! It's all one big circle. I've had Lathams deliveries with "International" sprayed on the side and vice versa!

Never had an issue with Lathams when swapping timber. There customer service is frankly some of the best I’ve ever come across from any company timber or not.
 
Let me suggest an exxperiment to illustrate a possible answer. Take a small piece of material about 6mm thick, open the door and place the material between the bottom of the door and the rebate. Pull gently on the handle from outside, if the door is capable of being twisted it should come much closer to a fit at the top. If this works as suggested post again and I will relate stage two of the cure.
 
Mike Jordan":1jk6yxvh said:
Let me suggest an exxperiment to illustrate a possible answer. Take a small piece of material about 6mm thick, open the door and place the material between the bottom of the door and the rebate. Pull gently on the handle from outside, if the door is capable of being twisted it should come much closer to a fit at the top. If this works as suggested post again and I will relate stage two of the cure.
OK, I tried that. The door did come close to a fit at the top, but I would say it was a strong, not a gentle, pull.
 
Having proved that it will fit, you could now get the same result by easing the rebate in the area of the lock and then adjusting the lock striker plate. No material is removed from the bottom of the jamb just the lock area. Altering the rebates needs doing slowly and carefully .
It's possible to improve the fit by another method, easing the top right hand corner of the door further into the frame by again easing the rebates of the jamb and head of the frame and moving the top hinge out a little. Either of these alterations will make the frame a problem if you decide to fit a new door at a later date.
 

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