help with jacobs chuck and kit for trying to turn pens

[technium]

Hi Guys

I have a Record DML24 lathe and I am thinking of trying my hand at making pens. I only have the normal lathe connections and live center in the tail stock (think I got that bit right) so I guess I need a jacobs chuck? I believe the Morse Taper on the DML is 1 so thats what I assume I need to buy for if I was to get a jacobs Chuck??

Now on to pen making. I think im right in saying I need a pen mandrill and have been thinking of this one -

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ev ... l-ax942635

But if I was to buy it are there other things I need to buy or consider?

Any one able to offer a beginner advice as id rather not have to buy twice ;-)

thanks

 

[marcros]

you can actually turn pens between centres, although a mandrel is the more common way to go. I would recommend http://www.yandles.co.uk/planet-pm1-uni ... -1mt/p4784 I have the 2MT version.

you will need a drill chuck, which Jacobs is one brand, and used as a generic description now (like hoover). something like http://www.proopsbrothers.com/drill-chu ... 1330-p.asp will get you started.

You need a set of bushes for the pen kits that you choose, and drill bits to suit the tubes.

 

[technium]

thanks Marcros

I will go ahead and buy those parts now then.

When you say Bushes, do I need any specific size bushes and what are they used for and one final question, the mendrel you linked to has stuff for 7mm kits so I assume thats the smallest I can go for bushes and tubes?

thanks

Colin

 

[marcros]

Colin,

Choose a pen kit... plenty available, depending on what you want to spend. The cheap pen kits tend to be cheap and nasty- I personally think that for around 6.50 each, Taylors of Mirfield kits take some beating. https://taylorsmirfield.co.uk/collectio ... s-pen-kits. For click pens, http://www.beaufortink.co.uk/tempest.html are very good, and a world apart from other click pens.

You then buy the bushes for that kit which will be drilled to take the mandrel, and the OD will be to suit the kit that you are turning. If the tubes are bigger than the mandrel, the bushes centre the tube. Assume for now that the bushes cannot be mixed between kits- there is the odd exception.

7mm tubes don't need a bush to fit the tube, the bush is more of a spacer to give the OD for a slimline pen. You can't go smaller than this, but no kit takes a smaller tube, so it isn't an issue. The 7mm bushes (I think) are generic and interchangeable.

this isn't a bad set of instructions which will show you how it all looks https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0416/ ... ns.pdf?478

Feel free to ask any other questions
Mark

 

[technium]

Thanks Marcros

I will get those bits first and then start looking into the pen bits but ive added those links to favourites so I can come back to them.

Thanks so much for your time and advice, I appreciate it.

Colin

 

[marcros]

the other thing that you will need is a means to square the end of the blank to the tube. There are various methods, from sandpaper on a faceplate, a disk sander or a thing that goes in your drill.

 

[technium]

Thanks, ive got a disc sander so should have that part covered.

first few parts ordered.

cheers

Colin

 

[technium]

Yandles pen kit arrived today but looking at the photo how do I connect either end to the lathe? The pointed part (right hand side of mandrel in the picture you linked to) does that go in the headstock or tail stock and then theres the threaded end of the mandrel, again how does that end connect to something?

thanks

Colin

 

[marcros]

pointed end into the headstock. then bush blank bush, bush blank bust, then screw the brass nut on. nip up the tailstock to the end, but not too tight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl0D2Hjp_Eo about 5 mins in shows you.

fancy blank on this one, but better shots of your parts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztzFmdTRtAQ

 

[Robbo3]

The morse taper goes into the headstock & becomes a friction drive whilst the rotating (live) centre is placed in the dimple of the threaded end. The pen parts & bushings are placed on the mandrel & squeezed together just enough so they don't slip.
Same as marcros says above.

 

[technium]

Thanks guys that explains it, I couldnt see how it all went together but ive now found the instructions that came with it, my mate was looking at it and forgot to put the instructions back so I wasnt aware there were any.

The instructions say something about using a 60 degree rotating center not a fixed center as that will cause the mandrel damage so I will have to check mine, I know I have a pointed thing in the tail stock but not sure if it rotates or is fixed so thats another thing I may have to buy.

thanks

Colin

 

[Dalboy]

With these it pays to get a mandril saver the idea being it slides over the mandrill and pushes straight onto the last pen bush and you don't use the little brass not with this you can't bend the shaft like you would using a revolving centre.

 

[Robbo3]

The instructions say something about using a 60 degree rotating center not a fixed center as that will cause the mandrel damage so I will have to check mine, I know I have a pointed thing in the tail stock but not sure if it rotates or is fixed so thats another thing I may have to buy.

Colin

Any live (rotating) centre will work, doesn't have to be 60°. Its purpose is to keep the mandrel on the centre line.
A dead (non rotating) centre will also work but will need lubricating little & often - probably considered a fire risk in these days of rigorous health & safety.

 

[technium]

Thanks all

I think I may have a dead centre but dont know until I get a chance to get back into the workshop to check mine out. If it is then I may look at upgrading to a live centre or the Mandrel saver like Dalboy said.

Once ive had a chance to sort that then I will have to look at bushes and pen kits.

Cheers

Colin

 

[technium]

ok ive had a chance to look and my tail stock has a pointed end thing which does infact rotate on its own so guess I dont need anything else. Ive watched a few pen turning videos on youtube and noticed people using Contact Adhesive on the pens, I guess thats to seal the wood? Ive had a look on screwfix and theres loads to choose from so is any CA ok to use like the liquid no nonsense stuff?

thanks again

Colin

 

[Dalboy]

I started CA glue as a finish but found it gets on my chest as do so many other pen turners most have now turned to Melamine lacquer. Have a read of THIS for applying it

 

[Happy amateur]

An excellent dvd for pen turners is by Paul Loseby produced by KTMP. It will answer all the questions you may have

Fred

 

[Robbo3]

ok ive had a chance to look and my tail stock has a pointed end thing which does infact rotate on its own so guess I dont need anything else. Ive watched a few pen turning videos on youtube and noticed people using Contact Adhesive on the pens, I guess thats to seal the wood? Ive had a look on screwfix and theres loads to choose from so is any CA ok to use like the liquid no nonsense stuff?
Colin

CA is Cyanoacrylate, what we commonly refer to as super glue not contact adhesive. You'll get into all sorts of difficulties if you try to use that.
It comes in 3 viscosities, thin, medium & thick. Woodturners generally use thin CA & occasionally medium. I get mine from the local £1 shop - 4 small bottles on a card.
CA is generally used with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) to make a CA-BLO finish on pens (straight onto bare sanded wood if I remember correctly).

 

[technium]

Thanks Robbo sorry about the newbie mistake so i should be using Super Glue instead LOL good job I asked. Am i right in thinking that you use contact adhesive to glue the tube into the wood or is that done with Super Glue aswell?

Also just purchased the Paul loseby dvd so will see what that is like.

Also just purchased a few pen sets from Axminster just to practice with but i think I still need a Pen Barrel Trimmer? Also would a normal 7mm wood drill bit be ok to drill out the wood ready for the tube?

thanks all.

 

[Robbo3]

For speed, use thin CA. You only get 30 seconds or so to get it right. Forget contact adhesive, that's more for large areas.
For gap filling, use Gorilla glue or even PVA but much longer setting time - sometimes overnight.