Help choosing a Tenon Saw please.

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James C":3l88ucj3 said:
Modernist":3l88ucj3 said:
This is getting ridiculous. No one was bidding for 14" Disston so I paid the starting price of £9.99 and it arrives on Tuesday. It will make a matched pair with my dovetail saw although it needs a bit of tlc. The Tyzack I mentioned above went unbid.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140711997085?ss ... 129wt_1378

Plenty of meat left and, potentially a nice handle. It makes the prices of the new ones hard to justify.

I actually almost bid on this but didn't because I wanted a saw with a brass back and was sure it would go for more than I'd pay for a steel backed saw as Disston usually go way higher.

Good bargain there.

P.S. slightly regretting that move now

There were 1 or 2 similar so you should not be without for long. I have a couple of brass backs (S & J Professional are good but need a decent handle)- but hey, it's a Disston for less than a tenner, can't be bad. Good luck with the bidding.
 
jimi43":3dadlkdo said:
I don't understand why anyone can have an issue buying old saws...the older ones from great makers are simply wonderful.

I wouldn't buy from eBay - car boots are cheaper (saws are swines to post) and loose handles and kinked blades are tiresome to say the least, and not always honestly reported.

Old saws are - as you say - often splendid. I have none other.

BugBear
 
bugbear":1c714c9h said:
...- car boots are cheaper
Not if you value your time! I never bother unless I happen to be passing.
(saws are swines to post)....
Couldn't be simpler - just fold stiff cardboard around it and fix with parcel tape. If it's valuable just fold more cardboard around it
 
The Wood Butcher":1ushaibn said:
Total expenditure less than £100... All of them in great condition apart from the Garlick tenon saw which has a kink the seller forgot to mention so I'll have to find someone to planish it or learn myself. It's such a nice saw that I don't want to send it back.

.
Does anybody have any experience of planishing kinks out of saws? I've attempted this without being overly successful; but would like to know how to do it properly.

When I've attempted this the saw has (or so I like to tell myself), better than it was before but I have never achieved a truly satisfactory result.
 
Sawyer":3pu6ac4w said:
The Wood Butcher":3pu6ac4w said:
Total expenditure less than £100... All of them in great condition apart from the Garlick tenon saw which has a kink the seller forgot to mention so I'll have to find someone to planish it or learn myself. It's such a nice saw that I don't want to send it back.

.
Does anybody have any experience of planishing kinks out of saws? I've attempted this without being overly successful; but would like to know how to do it properly.

When I've attempted this the saw has (or so I like to tell myself), better than it was before but I have never achieved a truly satisfactory result.


Here's a link which may help you out. It's far easier than trying to explain things from scratch :)

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread. ... saw-Blades
 
GazPal":2jt9wxsv said:
Jacob":2jt9wxsv said:
This is good on sharpening.
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html
That little angle guide thing works well.
It also helps to felt-tip over the teeth after they have been levelled and before re-shaping, as it helps you see where you have been.

Or soot the blade :wink:

If you can't see the teeth shape well enough not to need this, I'd recommend improving your magnification and/or lighting.

BugBear
 
bugbear":3gem42pg said:
GazPal":3gem42pg said:
Jacob":3gem42pg said:
This is good on sharpening.
http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html
That little angle guide thing works well.
It also helps to felt-tip over the teeth after they have been levelled and before re-shaping, as it helps you see where you have been.

Or soot the blade :wink:

If you can't see the teeth shape well enough not to need this, I'd recommend improving your magnification and/or lighting.

BugBear

Good lighting is a must when saw sharpening, but magnification isn't unless the teeth are minute or eye sight issues exist. However, sooting or blackening is a simple and inexpensive "trick of the trade" that helps a sharpener keep track of his/her progress and can be used when jointing to help indicate when all teeth have been tipped. I've perfectly good eyesight - fortunately - but been using this simply trick since first learning to sharpen saws during my early teens over 40yrs ago.
 

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