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Mcluma

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Hanging doors
With this refurb we are also changing all the doors. We have three floors and UK regulations stipulate that all the doors to main living or bedrooms have to be fire rated.
I do not like hanging doors, especially heavy fire rated doors. So I try to make my life as easy as possible.
I’m using 3D fire rated hinges, these hinges when fitted can be altered three ways by using an Allen key
Up/down
In/out
Left/right


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

They are more expensive, but they are worth every penny when adjusting the door, especially when working with an old house
For fitting the hinges to the door and doorframe I’m using the trend hinge jig. However the radius of these hinges does not match the guide and cutter. That is what I noticed when hanging the cinema room doors. So I had to make 3 new guides which would fit the different hinge radius.


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

Here you can see that the door has been prepared and I’m now ready for cutting the doorframe.


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr


Untitled by mcluma, on Flickr

I couldn’t hang the door as I picked the wrong door from the store room. (I picked a fire rated door and this should have been a normal door as it is for the bathroom)
 

Jacob

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Looks OK but door hinge jigs are not good IMHO. Faster, neater the old fashioned way - 2 marking gauges, tape, combi square, chisels. Not at all difficult once you have cracked the setting out.
NB You can fire proof existing doors if you want to. Envirograf supply the stuff.
The other essential bit of kit is free - you make a couple of door wedges like I've used here big-windows-t55532.html
then add one or two thin wedges for aligning the door in the hole.
 

twothumbs

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It is what is best for you and works that is important. The Building Regs. are probably the England and Wales ones. Scotland, and NI are different or not the same, though of course often share similar aims of safety. Fire doors are becoming more difficult than just buying off the shelf due to the manufacturers test results and ironmongery used in the tests. Thanks for sharing this.
Interestingly there are universities here that found they had problems with large corridor doors being too heavy, in that small girl students from the far east were unable to push them open. Could be serious. Good luck.
 

Mcluma

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Jacob":2wxahwpw said:
NB You can fire proof existing doors if you want to. Envirograf supply the stuff.
The old oak doors where not thick enough, they need to be a solid 44mm doors. the doors i had where disallowed as the fields where only 10mm thick
 

andersonec

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twothumbs":gzi2m50c said:
Interestingly there are universities here that found they had problems with large corridor doors being too heavy, in that small girl students from the far east were unable to push them open. Could be serious. Good luck.

Don't we have small girls in this country then? :?


Andy
 

twothumbs

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You do get very light far east female students who are probably lighter than the door leaf. At 7-8 stones (98 - 112 lbs) they are about the same as a wide corridor leaf....at say 103 lbs plus a good closer. Now I am wondering what we did in schools and other places where children are not with an adult and have automatic hold backs. They are fine as long as you are on the safe side when it goes off. Mmmmm? Need to think about this...the old grey cells are not working.
 

twothumbs

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You do get very light far east female students who are probably lighter than the door leaf. At 7-8 stones (98 - 112 lbs) they are about the same as a wide corridor leaf....at say 103 lbs plus a good closer. Now I am wondering what we did in schools and other places where children are not with an adult and have automatic hold backs. They are fine as long as you are on the safe side when it goes off. Mmmmm? Need to think about this...the old grey cells are not working.
 

Stormer1940

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Jacob":1obmj4lm said:
Looks OK but door hinge jigs are not good IMHO. Faster, neater the old fashioned way - 2 marking gauges, tape, combi square, chisels. Not at all difficult once you have cracked the setting out.
NB You can fire proof existing doors if you want to. Envirograf supply the stuff.
The other essential bit of kit is free - you make a couple of door wedges like I've used here big-windows-t55532.html
then add one or two thin wedges for aligning the door in the hole.
I prefer marking, scoring back line with marking gauge, cutting the straights with a chisel and then freehand routering.
I have a jig and I have used it once. May sell it.... Win Bags are a great addition for door hanging to.

 

Setch

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I don't hang lots of doors at once, but think even jacob is over complicating things - all you need are hinges, and the chisel you'll be using to chop them in. The knuckle of the hinge aligns it square on the door egde, and you scribe round with a chisel - KISS!
 

promhandicam

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Setch":3ea941rr said:
I don't hang lots of doors at once, but think even jacob is over complicating things - all you need are hinges, and the chisel you'll be using to chop them in. The knuckle of the hinge aligns it square on the door egde, and you scribe round with a chisel - KISS!
I prefer a stanley knife for marking out as you describe it rather than a chisel.
 

Mcluma

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Setch":3o5xwfcn said:
I don't hang lots of doors at once, but think even jacob is over complicating things - all you need are hinges, and the chisel you'll be using to chop them in. The knuckle of the hinge aligns it square on the door egde, and you scribe round with a chisel - KISS!

That will not work with the 3d hinges, in the door they are recessed by a good 10mm, and they are not flush with the knuckle of the hinge

The issue with these hinges is that the radious is not matching up with the jig of trend so i had to make my on jig inserts

Once i had this done the fit is perfect. routing out the hinges really beats using a chissel. also the set-up for using the same jig on the door and the doorpost makes it silly person proof

what i cannot understand is that Trend has not made an insert or sell a collar to handle these euro round hinges

yes i can buy the jig from the manufacturer but at a price of £200,- and then you constanly have to move the jig as it is only good for cutting one hinge at a time
 

gwr

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I have never used a hinge jig so cant comment much on them.Can anyone tell me if they are angled so as the router cuts slightly deeper at the back? I know this won't be an issue with a lot of modern hinges.
 

Stormer1940

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gwr":14t77mdw said:
I have never used a hinge jig so cant comment much on them.Can anyone tell me if they are angled so as the router cuts slightly deeper at the back? I know this won't be an issue with a lot of modern hinges.
The one I have does not. Mine is the 2 piece 76mm jig. £35 off ebay...
 

Jacob

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Setch":1k5czhwj said:
I don't hang lots of doors at once, but think even jacob is over complicating things - all you need are hinges, and the chisel you'll be using to chop them in. The knuckle of the hinge aligns it square on the door egde, and you scribe round with a chisel - KISS!
Well yes no prob if your only tool is a chisel! But a few bits and bobs are useful if you've got them. Handy to mark up with a couple of gauges. Cheapo beech ones are ideal - no need to go mad with expensive fashionable metal versions. You need several anyway, as a rule.
 

Stormer1940

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Have you taken the finished floor level in to account? I'd hate to see you hanging 25 40KG doors and then they needed to be taken off for trimming.... I'm not being sarcastic here I just know how heavy those blooming doors are...
 

Mcluma

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These doors are pre-finished, so no trimming what so ever, so door cassing needs to be spot on, hence the use of these hinges.

I will be using solid oak thresholds troughout the house
 
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