Hanging a External Oak door HELP

[Markymark]

Hi

I am wanting to hang a new door I have bought for the house. I have never done this before but I have done a lot of other projects. The problem is that I want to avoid hacking at the plaster surround so I am hanging it on the orignal Frame. The door isslightly too big so will need adjusting.

My main Questions are:-

Do I use the hinge side of the door as a datum?
How do I mark accurately where to plane the door?

Any more advice from a seasoned door hanging professional would be greatly appreciated.


Mark

 

[Racers]

Place the old door on top of the new door and mark around it, adjusting the gap if the old one doesn't fit well.

Or measure the frame in several places (top middle and bottom) and check it the top is square to the sides and the floor isn't running out mark all the results on the new door.

I have done a few in my time, enough to know it can be a hugely frustrating job and I don't like hanging doors.

Pete

 

[Fatboy]

Could I just add the proviso that you check the old door is planed square on the edges before you use it as a template as you'll be marking the 'front' of the new door off of the 'back' of the old door. If the old door edges are chamfered towards the back you could end up taking too much off. Even a couple of mill will make a difference to the fit

Make sure top is square to the top of the frame before chopping butts out. I used to use a handful of 2p pieces to set the correct gap around the frame.

Remember that its easier planing it off than it is sticking it back on!

 

[JSW]

Place the old door on top of the new door and mark around it, adjusting the gap if the old one doesn't fit well.

Or measure the frame in several places (top middle and bottom) and check it the top is square to the sides and the floor isn't running out mark all the results on the new door.

I have done a few in my time, enough to know it can be a hugely frustrating job and I don't like hanging doors.

Pete

No, no, no and NO!!

1. Check the door frame is plumb on the hanging side, and level across the head.

2. Measure the opening height and trim door to suit.

3. Now that the door will fit inside the opening at least height wise, and assuming the hanging side is plumb, offer the door to the hanging side. If the frame is out of plumb, use a level to get the door plumb, and plane to suit, in both cases.

4. If the head of the frame is out of level, then again, plane to suit.

5. Plane the clapping side to fit, if drastically oversize then do both sides to even out.

6. Plane a leading edge on both the hinge and clapping side, at this point you should be able to slide a 50p piece all round the door equally.

7. Fit hinges.

I used to fit doors for a living, nothing but. On private dwellings. I've done thousands.

 

[Markymark]

The original door sadly looks like it was cut with a jigsaw and it is one of the reasons I am replacing it. The other is that our dog decided to create a dog flap opening in the door while we were out so that made the desicion easier.

I feel I will have to mark the door to the frame.

Mark

 

[Markymark]

I have just looked at the instructions on the door and it seems it is engineered oak so I can only trim 7mm off both sides and same in height. Whoops.

 

[Markymark]

Place the old door on top of the new door and mark around it, adjusting the gap if the old one doesn't fit well.

Or measure the frame in several places (top middle and bottom) and check it the top is square to the sides and the floor isn't running out mark all the results on the new door.

I have done a few in my time, enough to know it can be a hugely frustrating job and I don't like hanging doors.

Pete

No, no, no and NO!!

1. Check the door frame is plumb on the hanging side, and level across the head.

2. Measure the opening height and trim door to suit.

3. Now that the door will fit inside the opening at least height wise, and assuming the hanging side is plumb, offer the door to the hanging side. If the frame is out of plumb, use a level to get the door plumb, and plane to suit, in both cases.

4. If the head of the frame is out of level, then again, plane to suit.

5. Plane the clapping side to fit, if drastically oversize then do both sides to even out.

6. Plane a leading edge on both the hinge and clapping side, at this point you should be able to slide a 50p piece all round the door equally.

7. Fit hinges.

I used to fit doors for a living, nothing but. On private dwellings. I've done thousands.

Hi JSW

Thanks for advice.

When you say a leading edge what do you mean. Sorry not good on shop talk?

M

 

[blackrodd]

No one seems to remember the door bottom is the first thing to trim, allowing for out of level of any threshold or carpet, 15mm for standard carpet and underlay, 20mm for an axminster and good underlay, or 50p piece for a timber threshold, Otherwise you will end up with an ugly of drafty bottom door line.
I would pack the door from the bottom, and try and get the hanging stile sides to line up, then mark and cut or shoot the bottom offto suit, then stick a 50 p pieces each side, on a threshold or timber packer to maintain bottom gap, mark the top and cut or shoot off allowing the 50p gap.
Then just shoot the sides in and take the leading edge off the striking stile using the good old 50p as a guide again, chop in a pair and half good quality butts, job done!
Regards Rodders

 

[JSW]

Which is pretty much what I said blackrodd, with the omission of the door bottom, which I always fit to suit once the head of the door is sorted out ...

The leading edge is a slight chamfer to the front edge of the door as it meets the frame.