handsaw versus machine cut

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blackrodd

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I was having a conversation recently, on the above subject, with some trades at work and I was surprised as to how many agreed with me that some of us can always get a far superior and more accurate scribe cut, say, up a length of architrave where it meets with the wonky wall builders finest examples, or even a stone wall of which there are many round here.
I wonder if there are many here who would agree? Regards Rodders
 
Agree with what, you haven't stated which one you use?

A while since I did them as I have fitters now but all of us use a jigsaw upside down set at an angle (10-15 degrees), nothing quicker and accurate once you get the hang of it. Quick fettle / tidy up with a sharp block plane if necessary .
 
Scribing is absolutely a central pivotal skill of woodworking, wether its scribing mortise positions, tennon cheeks & dovetails, kitchen worktops or skirting and door architrave. As with any wood work procedure, the marking out (scribing) is vitally important. It wont matter wether you use the tip of your rip saw, or an axe & block plane, or wether you use an electric plane to make the cut, if the actual marking out is sloppy you will get a poor fit. But definately for me fine adjustment is very doable with eg a block plane worked at an angle to the board, r even with my V sharp puukko knife. I found with my (limited) experience of those awful electric planers, they remove material fast, very fast more than I would sometimes like...
 
doctor Bob said:
Agree with what, you haven't stated which one you use?

I mark out with a compass and then the good old handsaw for that almost PERFECT scribe.

Jigsaw? this is what brought on the conversation, I don't care what jigsaw you bought or how much it cost, you won't get as good a scribe job from the jigsaw.
A bandsaw is probably a little more accurate, but for some reason yer favourite handsaw seems to be best!
Regards Rodders
 
blackrodd":18ghoqjc said:
Jigsaw? this is what brought on the conversation, I don't care what jigsaw you bought or how much it cost, you won't get as good a scribe job from the jigsaw.
A bandsaw is probably a little more accurate, but for some reason yer favourite handsaw seems to be best!
Regards Rodders

OK, well that's the end of that then........ (the discussion not the jigsaw)
 
blackrodd":12hf264t said:
I was having a conversation recently, on the above subject, with some trades at work and I was surprised as to how many agreed with me that some of us can always get a far superior and more accurate scribe cut, say, up a length of architrave where it meets with the wonky wall builders finest examples, or even a stone wall of which there are many round here.
I wonder if there are many here who would agree? Regards Rodders
I've done a lot of scribe cuts with axe and block plane. It's as accurate as you want it to be, even "perfect" if that's what is required.
Offer a piece up and scribe a line with a pencil, cut close to the line with an axe (undercut), offer up and mark again etc, finish with block plane at an angle to the face say 45º, undercut again so the final fitting will close up any micro gaps.
Handsaw doesn't come into it at all. A machine saw could help if there's a lot of waste to remove but no help with the fine adjustment.
 
blackrodd":26br5e54 said:
doctor Bob":26br5e54 said:
Agree with what, you haven't stated which one you use?

I mark out with a compass and then the good old handsaw for that almost PERFECT scribe.

Jigsaw? this is what brought on the conversation, I don't care what jigsaw you bought or how much it cost, you won't get as good a scribe job from the jigsaw.
A bandsaw is probably a little more accurate, but for some reason yer favourite handsaw seems to be best!
Regards Rodders

What a lot of Horlicks
It does not matter what method you use.
What matters is the end result and like all things in life Practise makes Perfect
I personally use both a hand saw and a Jig saw (with down cut blades)
Depending on the size and number of scribes will dictate the most appropriate method I use and I can guarantee that when the panel or whatever is fitted in place you would not be able to tell what method was used
 
I personaly dont get good results with my jig saw and use a coping saw for stonework or a nice new jack cut for something less in and out followed up with a block plane if needed.Here is a bit of scribing done with a coping saw with a big undercut.

DSC_0980_zps64624892.jpg


DSC_0989_zps24c81dbc.jpg


DSC_0991_zps04a3b849.jpg


Sorry for a upvc example .Cheers Bern.
 
It all depends on what I'm doing.

If it's purely for my own benefit, I tend to use hand tools as I have my workshop handy. If I'm on site I tend to use a jigsaw, it's quicker and easier when you've only got a portable workbench.

BTW Blackrodd, I have a Makita 18v LXT jigsaw, a 240v Makita 4350CT and 110v Mafell P1CC. Spoilt for choice ain't I? :wink: :wink:
 
Berncarpenter":94830694 said:


Without wishing to piddle on your parade, you do realise that you'll have nothing but trouble with that joint? Foiled uPVC expands and contracts at least three times more than white. That's what the corner joints are for.
 
Thats exactly what i told the client but he was adamant he didnt want any corners and no fixings showing .Look its all glued on #-o :roll:

DSC_0985_zpsa661e932.jpg


He was a real pain in the a*** stood behind me all day giving instructions he told me he was quite happy to pay extra if i did it his way and there would be no comebacks from me if it all falls off.

Cheers Bern.
 
Berncarpenter":3kg5sglj said:
He was a real pain in the a*** stood behind me all day giving instructions he told me he was quite happy to pay extra if i did it his way and there would be no comebacks from me if it all falls off.

Cheers Bern.

Lovely neat work! I'd have got him to sign something to that effect.
 
Grayorm":2oxytry7 said:
Berncarpenter":2oxytry7 said:
He was a real pain in the a*** stood behind me all day giving instructions he told me he was quite happy to pay extra if i did it his way and there would be no comebacks from me if it all falls off.

Cheers Bern.

Lovely neat work! I'd have got him to sign something to that effect.

Thanks Grayorm
Yeh didnt do that good idea .
Cheers Bern.
 
Grayorm":38yuewlq said:
Berncarpenter":38yuewlq said:
He was a real pain in the a*** stood behind me all day giving instructions he told me he was quite happy to pay extra if i did it his way and there would be no comebacks from me if it all falls off.

Cheers Bern.

Lovely neat work! I'd have got him to sign something to that effect.

+100 to that !!!!!!!
 
Berncarpenter":1fb8icqv said:
Thats exactly what i told the client but he was adamant he didnt want any corners and no fixings showing .Look its all glued on #-o :roll:


What a knob (hammer) Does look the biz though - for now :lol:
 
MMUK":togwrd63 said:
Berncarpenter":togwrd63 said:


Foiled uPVC expands and contracts at least three times more than white. That's what the corner joints are for.


At last someone who agrees with me =D>
I'm copying this to my phone for the next customer who argues with me.

Good work though Bern.
 
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