Handcutting Dovetails - A Question.

[Alf]

... all these solutions are probably over kill...

And this has been an argument against since when? Did I miss a memo? :wink: :lol:

 

[George_N]

Alf, does your perspex template have the same angle on both edges ie both at 1:6 or 1:8 or whatever? I have some spare perspex that I might have a go with and I was wondering whether to make two or just one but with different angles on each edge.

 

[Alf]

George, I went with the same angle on both sides - 1:7 in my case. I think it might be too easy to make an error otherwise.

Cheers, Alf

 

[George_N]

George, I went with the same angle on both sides - 1:7 in my case. I think it might be too easy to make an error otherwise.

Cheers, Alf

I can certainly see the possibility of Mr Cockup coming to visit if I have two different angles. Do you use 1:7 for all your dovetails?

 

[Alf]

I can certainly see the possibility of Mr Cockup coming to visit if I have two different angles.

Sheesh, he's a permanent resident here... :lol:

Yeah, I kinda decided if 1:7 was okay for the 'Rat, it might conceivably be advantageous to stick to it for hand cut too, plus it looks okay to my eye. I'm not a big fan of the more obvious DT angle.

Cheers, Alf

 

[woodbloke]

I've used 1:7 for a while now....strictly speaking the finest work in hardwood should be 1:8 but I can't see that the slightly steeper slope of a 1:7 makes allot of difference....might do when you're on the other sort tho' :wink: :lol: ....not that I am






yet - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

....might do when you're on the other sort tho' :wink: :lol: ....not that I am






yet

That one's about 1:1 I think :lol: :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

George, I went with the same angle on both sides - 1:7 in my case. I think it might be too easy to make an error otherwise.

Cheers, Alf

Alf - I don't want and will not have cock ups in my workshop at any time :^o ....this is my drawer numbering system by the way #-o #-o - Rob

 

[pidgeonpost]

Woodbloke - the dovetails in your photo look great. Wish mine looked like that. I don't get to cut many, as most of the things I make simply don't strictly speaking have to have them (though dovetails could be used to good structural and decorative effect). This means that when I do need them, the first few are pretty poor, getting progressively better, culminating with being passable by the time I'm doing the last one.
Maybe I should prepare a bunch of practice drawer sides and get practicing.
Are there any magical tips for cutting the sockets? I tend to clamp the drawer front vertically in the vice, square the drawer side with it (keep it in place with another clamp or summat heavy) then mark with a small pointy Stanley knife.

 

[Alf]

Could have been worse, Rob. Could have been vee, aye, aye, aye, aye, aye... #-o What's the Latin for "bother"?

Cheers, Alf

 

[David C]

I feel that 1:8 looks nice for single lap dovetails on thick drawerfronts in hardwood.

1:8 in thin hardwood at the back corner looks nearly parallel, so I use 1:6 there.

I deduce that thickness of work has a significant impact on the apparent slope angle.

Just my personal theory,

David

PS It has occurred to me that the Wearing jig would cope with canted hopper type boxes rather well. Not sure that the fixed type would cope and one might need two adjustable bevel settings.

 

[syntec4]

Alf - I don't want and will not have cock ups in my workshop at any time :^o ....this is my drawer numbering system by the way #-o #-o - Rob

[/quote]

Oh you think that's bad

This will make anyone feel better. Go on, it's al right, laugh all you want

It didn't break off either I cut it off.....

Stupid &^(*&*^

 

[Philly]

What timber did you use for your doverails ,Syn? :lol:
Just joking, we've all been there. Some of us have a season ticket.........
Philly

 

[Alf]

Ooo, I bet you swore. #-o

 

[syntec4]

And it was all going so well....

God job I bought a few extra boards .. just in case :wink:

On another note, what's to best method of cleaning up the bottom of the tails. My narrowest chisel is 6mm, and the bevel is not steep enough to push it through flat. I have to push the chisel in at an angle but this has a tendancy to undercut.
I think i might have to do a little sketch to explain what I'm on about?

Cheers
Lee.

 

[Alf]

I think i might have to do a little sketch to explain what I'm on about?

I think you might :lol:

 

[Mittlefehldt]

Woodbloke - the dovetails in your photo look great. Wish mine looked like that. I don't get to cut many, as most of the things I make simply don't strictly speaking have to have them (though dovetails could be used to good structural and decorative effect). This means that when I do need them, the first few are pretty poor, getting progressively better, culminating with being passable by the time I'm doing the last one.
Maybe I should prepare a bunch of practice drawer sides and get practicing.
Are there any magical tips for cutting the sockets? I tend to clamp the drawer front vertically in the vice, square the drawer side with it (keep it in place with another clamp or summat heavy) then mark with a small pointy Stanley knife.

What I do is what I saw Rob Cosman do at several woodshows. You put the pin board in a vice and line it up with a woodplane on its side. Once you have done that lay the board on the plane and align it with the pin board, or drawer front, mark your pins from the tail board and you have it, sounds funny now that I write it, or rather type it, but it works well.

The first Dovetails I did were for a box to store a Stanley Router Plane, and I discovered from that project that one must pay close attention to the orientation of the pins and tails as insted of a rectangle, when I tried to match up the four sides I had a Z instead. I recut and made it work but I still have that ugly bit of stuff around to remind me to pay attention to the orientation of the parts. It was in very nice Butternut to, SIGH.

James

 

[Anonymous]

Regarding dimensions, I was taught that the wide side of the pin is usually equal to 3/4 the width of the wood it is cut on.

I wonder if it was this formula that was found too sterile.

This is only my own opinion... I prefer not to see dovetails used as a "decorative feature" as I think they can distract the eye from the overall design.

 

[woodbloke]

I was taught that the wide side of the pin is usually equal to 3/4 the width of the wood it is cut on.

.....about half the thickness plus about 2 or 3mm....roughly 3/4? - Rob