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Going from a straight bevel to a fingernail on a proedge!

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philb88

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Hi,

I've got a Sorby Proedge and fancied regrinding a few bowl gouges to have a go with a fingernail profile as all of mine are standard angle and straight!

I've put the 60 grit belt in, an left the arm as per Sorby settings. The middle and 75% of the wings look OK, but I can get the top edge to come into a smooth transition like everyone else looks!

I've tried further extending the length, and grinding as far over as I can and can't get it right?
Any ideas?
 

CHJ

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You need to dwell longer on the sides until the tops come down to just the slightest upward curve.

Look at the tool wheel/belt contact point sideways on and watch the top edge of the flute, swing the tool and keep the high point in contact, you will see the top edge slowly get lower.

Swing the tool back and forth on one side at a time, Don't go right over the front edge every time.
Be careful that you don't remove too much metal from the bottom of the side edge near the bottom of the flute else you will break through and end up with a sharp kink in the profile.
 

philb88

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CHJ":2hp6m1d1 said:
You need to dwell longer on the sides until the tops come down to just the slightest upward curve.

Look at the tool wheel/belt contact point sideways on and watch the top edge of the flute, swing the tool and keep the high point in contact, you will see the top edge slowly get lower.

Swing the tool back and forth on one side at a time, Don't go right over the front edge every time.
Be careful that you don't remove too much metal from the bottom of the side edge near the bottom of the flute else you will break through and end up with a sharp kink in the profile.
Thanks, I'll try holding the sides longer. But the point is getting sharper?

The only problem is I'm as far rotated as the ProEdge will let me go, I reckon a further 1/2" either side, and the rotation would be enough to solve the problem!
 

CHJ

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philb88":3ld9uwir said:
Thanks, I'll try holding the sides longer. But the point is getting sharper?

The only problem is I'm as far rotated as the ProEdge will let me go, I reckon a further 1/2" either side, and the rotation would be enough to solve the problem!
You are experiencing the classic "new sharpener syndrome" Too pointy a tool is down to the operator appreciating when and where to remove metal to get the correct form.

Maximum allowable swing is down to the setting of the tool in the jig, tool projection, jig base distance from wheel/belt etc. which controls the arc the tool cutting edge swings through.

Sharpening to profile is a skill that has to be learnt, the jig is only a means to reducing the variations you can apply to the tool /abrasive interface.
 

philb88

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Cheers!

Glad this bowl gouge was full length when I started. Might be considerably shorter by the end!
 

henton49er

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Philb88,

I had exactly the same problems as you appear to have with very similar profiles which I just couldn't use. I then bought this attachment :-

http://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/index. ... ts_id=1412

the Sorby Long Grind Jig, specifically made for the Proedge. I use the centre hole in this jig and set my bowl gouges at 88mm long out of the tool holder (by trial and error, I tried 85mm and thought 90mm a bit too far!!). This gives me an excellent (in my opinion) finger nail profile. At only a tenner I think this is one of the best bits of turning kit for the money (assuming you have a Proedge system.

Mike.
 

philb88

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henton49er":3leb8p1c said:
Philb88,

I had exactly the same problems as you appear to have with very similar profiles which I just couldn't use. I then bought this attachment :-

http://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/index. ... ts_id=1412

the Sorby Long Grind Jig, specifically made for the Proedge. I use the centre hole in this jig and set my bowl gouges at 88mm long out of the tool holder (by trial and error, I tried 85mm and thought 90mm a bit too far!!). This gives me an excellent (in my opinion) finger nail profile. At only a tenner I think this is one of the best bits of turning kit for the money (assuming you have a Proedge system.

Mike.
Ah, had looked at these but didn't know whether it was just another accessory to add the growing number!!

Might be worth a shot for a tenner, as I just can't rotate the tool enough with the jig itself getting the corners ground!

Cheers
 

henton49er

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philb88":2ccc2p2f said:
henton49er":2ccc2p2f said:
Philb88,

I had exactly the same problems as you appear to have with very similar profiles which I just couldn't use. I then bought this attachment :-

http://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/index. ... ts_id=1412

the Sorby Long Grind Jig, specifically made for the Proedge. I use the centre hole in this jig and set my bowl gouges at 88mm long out of the tool holder (by trial and error, I tried 85mm and thought 90mm a bit too far!!). This gives me an excellent (in my opinion) finger nail profile. At only a tenner I think this is one of the best bits of turning kit for the money (assuming you have a Proedge system.

Mike.
Ah, had looked at these but didn't know whether it was just another accessory to add the growing number!!

Might be worth a shot for a tenner, as I just can't rotate the tool enough with the jig itself getting the corners ground!

Cheers
I was losing the corners off my jig as well (as has the Proedge owned by my Woodturning Club). The Long Grind Jig solves this problem and makes fingernail grinds easy peasy - you will not be disappointed. (The disappointment is that Sorby obviuosly produced a poor design in the proedge and have had to resort to an add-on jig to get around the problem!!).

Mike
 

wabbitpoo

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I have always been disappointed with the system - there seems to be too much "play" in the system, and hence margin for error. That leads to a variable edge. That said, its all I have so I persevere with it. I will be interested to see what effect that accessory has. How is it used?!?
 

henton49er

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wabbitpoo":2r29unsf said:
I have always been disappointed with the system - there seems to be too much "play" in the system, and hence margin for error. That leads to a variable edge. That said, its all I have so I persevere with it. I will be interested to see what effect that accessory has. How is it used?!?
It sits over the lower rail in the same way that the tool holder supplied with the Proedge does. However, it has two additional holes for mounting the tool holder which means that the tool holder is further away from the belt and approaches it at a different angle. I have found the middle of the three holes just what I need. It gives a good (and I find quite repeatable) fingernail grind, and does not foul the side of the jig on the belt when trying to do the wings of the gouge. I do both bowl and spindle gouges on it, but with different settings.

Mike B.
 

CHJ

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A block of hard wood such as Beech or Oak with some suitable sized holes drilled in it will overcome the 'loose fit' and is certainly a lot cheaper than a tenner.
DSCN3108.JPG
DSCN3109.JPG


On my home made Jig I control the distance from the wheel with spacers.
DSCN3110.JPG
DSCN3111.JPG
 

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henton49er

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philb88":rcvvf57d said:
Maybe its because the gouge is a quite a small one, the standard jig maybe be better use on the larger sized gouges?
I find that the Long Grind Jig works well with 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" bowl gouges (being the sizes I have). I had no joy with any of them on the standard jig.

Mike
 

Aled Dafis

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philb88":1pwlskvp said:
Blister":1pwlskvp said:
Are you using the long grind jig holder ?

http://robert-sorby.co.uk/longgrindjig.htm

:wink:
No, just the standard at the moment. Think this is the next purchase though!

Maybe its because the gouge is a quite a small one, the standard jig maybe be better use on the larger sized gouges?

PURCHASE????

A bit of wood with a couple of holes drilled in it works just the same. In fact that's where Sorby got the idea, they copied a demonstrator at the Timberman show near Carmarthen who used a bit of wood with a couple of holes drilled in it!

Aled
 
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