Roberto Flintofski
Established Member
Hi all, I have some repairs to make on some split new teak outdoor garden furniture to attend to, what glue would you recommend?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Glue & Teak
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rogxwhit
Established Member
Resorcinol ...
Haven't used any for a while, don't suppose you need much ... Cascaphen Waterproof Resin Glue 670g ... bit expensive ... keep looking ...
The last I got was Polymite I think. But times change. Generically though it's waterproof and gap filling with a degree of tensile strength across the gap, which isn't the case with PU and many other adhesive types.
Be clear as to whether you need an actual adhesive, or a filler ...
Haven't used any for a while, don't suppose you need much ... Cascaphen Waterproof Resin Glue 670g ... bit expensive ... keep looking ...
The last I got was Polymite I think. But times change. Generically though it's waterproof and gap filling with a degree of tensile strength across the gap, which isn't the case with PU and many other adhesive types.
Be clear as to whether you need an actual adhesive, or a filler ...
Last edited:
HappyHacker
Established Member
I used polymite on a similar repair a few years ago. Another good blow last year resulted in more damage and the previous repairs broke on the glue line. Removing the previous glue was relatively easy. This time I used the West epoxy system and a leak on one repair resulted in wood from the bench attached to the repaired part when I managed to get it free. Nothing has broken in the last so there is hope. It is expensive though/
Roberto Flintofski
Established Member
Jester129
Established Member
West System is £22. something at Seamark Nunn.
HappyHacker
Established Member
I had not seen that stuff. I used the tins of resin and hardner kit with the little mixing bowls and some filler to add to the resin to thicken it if necessary.
This is the first one I found when doing a search West resin
I had a lot of repairs to make. A large round table had damage to the planks and the supports around the hole for the sunshade, the sunshade had one of the spars broken and the round top for the shade was a jigsaw of its component parts. I did not use all the material and have used it on many other things since with success.
Kittyhawk
Established Member
Epoxy glue works well on Teak. Cross hatch sand and a good wipe down with acetone immediately prior to gluing to suppress the oils.
Roberto Flintofski
Established Member
Roberto Flintofski
Established Member
Roberto Flintofski
Established Member
Anyone ?
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Here's what Gorilla glue or likely a similar PL glue will look like once cured.
In the middle you can see it slightly denser, this was packed rather than just applied via gravity, which is a bit like Styrofoam.
People who use this stuff for woodworking from what I've seen, suggest absolutely no gaps.
I think whatever reptuable cascamite like above or whatever UF glue, that actually works... (a recent reformulation caused a lot of issues) would certainly be a good choice, slightly more gap filling qualities than anything else you'd find,
or something like a waterproof PVA like D4
i.e evostick blue bottle, or titebond waterproof flavour.
Regardless, you've got a glue which works, (make sure to squish all the air from the bottle afterwards with that stuff or it'll go solid.)
Not sure what you plan to do with that separated joint, trying to work glue into the tenon, I'd think PVA would be easier, perhaps I'm wrong.
I don't think the PL glue which you have would be much good for that, as its too thick.
Only used this recently, so perhaps it can be warmed to make runnier?
Tom
In the middle you can see it slightly denser, this was packed rather than just applied via gravity, which is a bit like Styrofoam.
People who use this stuff for woodworking from what I've seen, suggest absolutely no gaps.
I think whatever reptuable cascamite like above or whatever UF glue, that actually works... (a recent reformulation caused a lot of issues) would certainly be a good choice, slightly more gap filling qualities than anything else you'd find,
or something like a waterproof PVA like D4
i.e evostick blue bottle, or titebond waterproof flavour.
Regardless, you've got a glue which works, (make sure to squish all the air from the bottle afterwards with that stuff or it'll go solid.)
Not sure what you plan to do with that separated joint, trying to work glue into the tenon, I'd think PVA would be easier, perhaps I'm wrong.
I don't think the PL glue which you have would be much good for that, as its too thick.
Only used this recently, so perhaps it can be warmed to make runnier?
Tom
I've never been a fan of the foaming gorilla glue. I have experimented and found in some circumstances you can split the joint and it's not as good a bond as even simple pva.
Teak, resinous hardwoods then its epoxy.
I know there are others as above, but boat builders working in large amounts of teak, purpleheart ect use epoxy. Good enough for them- Good enough for me.
Teak, resinous hardwoods then its epoxy.
I know there are others as above, but boat builders working in large amounts of teak, purpleheart ect use epoxy. Good enough for them- Good enough for me.
thetyreman
Established Member
if it's just to fill in gaps then definitely 2 part epoxy ideally with teak dust mixed into it, PVA with teak dust will work too but it's not going to be long lasting if outdoors where as epoxy will last, you do have to be careful though if you over seal it the wood can no longer dry out and it can accelerate decay
sawtooth-9
Established Member
Kittyhawk has it dead right.
Epoxy but wash the area with acetone first to remove the teak oil from the gluing surface.
Acetone is a reasonable solvent to use, whilst it does remove skin lipids, the oxidation products are OK. Still suggest you wear gloves and minimise inhalation ( fresh air works well )
Kittyhawk
Established Member
One last thing I'd forgotten about - naked epoxy doesnt like continuous exposure to sunlight. It yellows and turns brittle. It's fine if painted over but probably something you don't want to do on your garden furniture. Maybe not such a problem in the UK but it is here in NZ where we have very high UV levels.
Kittyhawk
Established Member
And that's the reason (my above post) why boatbuilders use resorcinal glues rather than epoxies on varnished timber laminated masts and spars. Resorcinal is ok with UV.
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
aerolite, due to the position, I would let it soak in some acetone for 5 mins upside down in a tub before blowing out and then injecting some aerolite. Then clamp up and leave for 24 hrs, should then last until your kids give it to their kids. The most important bit is to get rid of the natural oils on the surface of the gluing area otherwise the repair will fail regardless of the type of glue use
Keith 66
Established Member
This^^^^^ Epoxy has low UV resistance wherever you are & will go gingery & fail within a few years or less.
Resorcinol is good but mix ratio is critical & it does not like cold conditions. Foaming PU glue is useless with even less UV resistance than epoxy.
Titebond 3 is pretty good for outside & dries dark.
Roberto Flintofski
Established Member
Thanks all for the info, will go with the Titebond III
