Glue Block/Chucks

[dovetail2007]

Hi,

When I get my lathe, I shalln't be able to afford a chuck for a while, so I am going to use the glue block/chuck method.
Now, for the type of glue to use

I understand that most people use "Hot Melt Glue" - I have a lot of experience with this, though only using a £5 Maplins gun, but have found two problems:
1) My gun oozes a lot once it is warmed up, so I am reluctant to use it unless there is a lot to be done as once hot it is impossible to stop it from using up the remaining half stick or whatever and it ends up in a puddle, which cannot then be reused. Is this my gun or are they all like this?
2) The feedrate is quite slow, even having had it warming up for half an hour (and using copious amounts of glue in the process) I don't think I would be able to satisfactorily (sp..?) cover a faceplate sized blank before gluing onto the proper blank, before it has set. How much glue is needed to hold the blank on?

I know some people also use CA (Superglue) and people have commented about its high price. I can get this very cheaply and could use it - problem being again, how much is needed to get a good bond? Also, how do people "crack" the CA joint?

I know this sounds like a barrage of questions and I appologise

Cheers,

Sam

 

[CHJ]

1) My gun oozes a lot once it is warmed up, .... it is impossible to stop it from using up the remaining half stick or whatever and it ends up in a puddle, ....Is this my gun or are they all like this?

Sam, Poor gun I'm afraid if it drips more than a pea sized bead.

2) The feedrate is quite slow, even having had it warming up for half an hour

Poor gun again 5-10 min is all it should take and produce all you need for most tasks.

I don't think I would be able to satisfactorily (sp..?) cover a faceplate sized blank before gluing onto the proper blank, before it has set. How much glue is needed to hold the blank on?

You do not need more than 20-25mm of glue stick even for an 250mm blank.

http://www.woodturningonline.com/Turnin ... page1.html

Hope the above helps.

I have a cheap gun (LUX) that gets used in emergency only when I can't be bothered to get my good one (Bosch electronic) from the other workshop, there is no comparison in performance.

 

[dovetail2007]

1) My gun oozes a lot once it is warmed up, .... it is impossible to stop it from using up the remaining half stick or whatever and it ends up in a puddle, ....Is this my gun or are they all like this?

Sam, Poor gun I'm afraid if it drips more than a pea sized bead.

2) The feedrate is quite slow, even having had it warming up for half an hour

Poor gun again 5-10 min is all it should take and produce all you need for most tasks.

I don't think I would be able to satisfactorily (sp..?) cover a faceplate sized blank before gluing onto the proper blank, before it has set. How much glue is needed to hold the blank on?

You do not need more than 20-25mm of glue stick even for an 250mm blank.

http://www.woodturningonline.com/Turnin ... page1.html

Hope the above helps.

I have a cheap gun (LUX) that gets used in emergency only when I can't be bothered to get my good one (Bosch electronic) from the other workshop, there is no comparison in performance.

Thanks for the reply, CHJ.

Is your Bosch gun like this: http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=108062 ? If it is, I think I'll get one soon, it seems very cheap if it is decent

Cheers
Sam

 

[CHJ]

.......
Is your Bosch gun like this: http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=108062 ? .....Sam

That's the animal.

 

[caretaker]

Hi, I use a glue gun to put a ring round the inner circle joint that I have recessed(I think it is called a dovetail) then put the prepared blank on.
Now for the belt and braces bit, I put four 1/2inch dabs of glue in the joints, top, bottom, left, right.
Then stand to one side and switch on.
My glue gun was under a £10.
It has a neon switch on the handle but can't remember the name.
This may help but I do not use much glue.

 

[greybeard]

Creaky memory - haven't tried this for a while although I came across a 'used' base with the faceplate still attached only a few months ago.

I used a sandwich of base, PVA, paper (ordinary A4 from my printer, so 70 or 80 gsm), PVA, workpiece.
Clamp up and leave for 24 hours to dry/set.
Worked for pieces up to about 9 inch diameter.

IIRC the first couple were mostly PVA, but as confidence grew I became a dab (groan!) hand at using a lot lot less glue.

Never had any problems 'splitting' base from workpiece - just took careful aim with a small axe and....no, wait a minute, ah yes I remember, make that an old stainless steel knife. Gently gently, worked a treat. Actually took longer to clean the gluey bits off than almost every other task!

 

[Bodrighy]

I can remember using glue and paper at school successfully, mind you the glue was that stuff you cook in a pot. I have since tried with hot glue and superglue but unsuccessfully so far. Hot glue may be because my gun was about £3 in Woolies. I really must get the hang of it though as some of the wood I turn would be far better done this way as it starts thin and won't take a screw.

Pete

 

[TEP]

Hi Pete. / Sam.

If you are going to use a paper/glue joint, newspaper and PVA is fine. Make sure the two faces are flat before glueing, and leave it overnight to harden before turning.

Do realise though, that the set-up won't take the same shocks as normal turning in a chuck, so cut gently.

The other way is to glue a sacrificial block to the work so it can fit into the chuck. When finished reverse chuck to remove the block.