Glue block

[Garno]

I am in a bit of a quandary as to using a glue block or continue using a screw chuck.

I really like the idea of a glue block and would like to know if there is any steadfast rules regarding the following,
1) Overall size
2) Wood type
3) Glue gun or C.A glue?
4) Removing the turned item from the block
5) reusability (do I need to make a new one for each job?)
6) Does it need to be concave?

Many thanks
Gary

 

[transatlantic]

I'd only use a glue block if you have to, for example because you don't have enough material to use a screw chuck, face plate, mortice, tenon etc.

As for glue. Ideally wood glue if side grain. Or epoxy otherwise. Not really tried a glue gun on the lathe although I know people have had success with it, in my experience it can be hit or miss depending on how quickly you can clamp up. It's either amazingly strong or no where near strong enough

Not tried CA glue, I think that would be too brittle? not something I'd trust unless the piece was really small.

 

[heronviewer]

I wouldn't use one for a large or out of balance piece but :
1) As big as you can use to fit in your chuck and to fit the proposed bottom of the piece
2) I use anything.
3) Glue gun
4) Use a parting tool at the end of the piece you have been turning
5) No - use it again for a suitably sized piece of work.
6) I make it flat or very slightly concave.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

The pro I used to turn with mounted blanks weighing over 50kg with glue guns used three at a time.

 

[kinverkid]

It has been a long time since I used this method but you may consider the glued paper method. This involves gluing (PVA is fine) a sheet or even two, of paper to the face of the glue block then gluing the workpiece to that. When the piece is finished, use a knife or spatula to part them. It means you need to clean the glue remnants from that face to finish but you will have to with the other methods too. Most of the time I would tend to use a glue gun, CA glue or epoxy instead but it will all depend on your piece. I also agree with Robert, I wouldn't use a glue block on an out-of-balanced piece.

Gary

 

[Dalboy]

I use a glue gun on many occasions when the need be. I tend to make the surface flat as well as the mating surface. I apply the glue and if it is a large piece requiring a largw glue block I apply the glue and then use a heat gun to soften it up again then press it together allowing it to fully cure. Use the tailstock where possible.
I have done up to 16" across off balance piece but this is best left to when you have experience at using this method.
I use it on all types of wood
Hot glue gun not CA I have on occasions used PVA but that is if I am not worried about glue stains
I have used my glue blocks a number of times when using the hot glue gun not had any problems
Keep the joints a close fit
The good thing about hot glue guns is that when finished warming up with a heat gun releases the block and no need to go right to the centre with the glue

 

[Sachakins]

I use a glue gun, but not the mini cheap glue guns, mine is a full size high temp gun.
Never use soft wood or course grain timber.
You can reuse often, just ensure face is clean.
Mine have a recess in centre with a 10 mm face lip around it.
Never use super glue it cannot take the shock caused when cutting, and being brittle is easily broken off.
I Don't use glue blocks on out of balance blanks or big stuff over 250mm.

 

[Torx]

Jam chuck for me, wouldn’t ever consider a glue gun but I’m the worst turner ever and would tear it off in no time.

 

[Owd Jockey]

I have always used a cheapie glue gun, as long as it melts the glue what more do you need? If you are careful you can re-use the glue block time and again. I tend to use a piece of hard wood I have turned to the required diameter. I run a few squiggles on the mating faces and a bead around the outside. Never lost a piece....yet. Easy to remove the glue with blunt a screw driver. Never used on really heavy pieces, just go with what you are comfortable with.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Jam chuck for me, wouldn’t ever consider a glue gun but I’m the worst turner ever and would tear it off in no time.

You wouldn't. I destroyed a quite large blank when I first used a glue gun as I glued under it and couldn't soften the glue to get it off. The wood split before the glue gave. I wouldn't glue to a faceplate, though, I use an intermediate wooden disc - 1 1/2" or 2" thick so I can just skim it clean afterwards or turn hollows, grooves etc. into it to aid the fixing.

Edit - another bonus of doing this is that you can turn straight off the item into the sacrifical piece if needed.
I put four or five washers under the blank (around the edge) when gluing up - I can get a heated filling knife through the glue then if necessary.

 

[Jonzjob]

4" face plate with a 2" thick piece of pine screwed to it and turned down to the face plate size. True the face and score several rings on the face then when you are mounting smaller bits you can true it up a lot easier.

Glue your blank onto the sacrificial block face with a glue gun and leave for a few minutes, just make sure the 2 are pressed well together until the glue has cooled.

When you have finished and want to remove it from the block just give the glued face a sharp tap or two with you gouge handle and it should come off. If the piece os smaller than the 4" block then carefully prize it off with a chisel.

Clean up the face of the block and it's ready to use again and again until you get down to near the tip of the holding screws.

I have used this method for well over 20 years and the nly failure I have ever had was when I didn't have the patience to give it a couple of minutes to cool properly.