Fitting new blades

[JimiJimi]

Hi all

After all the excellent advice I received on buying a scroll saw (recommended: Hegner, Axminster), I was offered a Rexon SS16SA for the bargain price of £40, so I am learning the basics on that. I have run into a problem with changing the blades, however. How can I tell which way up the blade goes in? Also, the wood is jumping about like mad - whichever way up I put the blade in. Is there a reason for this?

Jimi.

 

[Gary Morris]

Hi Jimi
I'm like you, learning the basics, but I'm pretty sure the direction of the blades should 'point down' as this will push the work piece down onto the table. The cutting stroke is on the downward stroke.
Not too sure why the piece is jumping about - I think this would occur mainly if the teeth are pointing up, pulling the work piece up.
Hope this helps Jimi - someone with experience is sure to post soon

Gary

 

[Mike M]

You need more tension, more speed. Do not push too hard into the blade or the blade will grab the wood.
Let the blade do the cutting and never be in a hurry.
FD Mike

 

[JimiJimi]

Thanks Mike - a combination of more tension and more speed sorted the problem out.

Gary- what you are saying makes perfect sense but the blade teeth are so tiny - it is tricky to decide which way they are pointing!

Jimi.

 

[stevebuk]

Thanks Mike - a combination of more tension and more speed sorted the problem out.

Gary- what you are saying makes perfect sense but the blade teeth are so tiny - it is tricky to decide which way they are pointing!

Jimi.

run your finger lightly up and down the blade, you will then find out which way the teeth are facing, you are probably pushing the wood to fast/hard into the blade, slow down the feed rate and make sure your blade is sharp also..

 

[Gill]

I'm surprised anyone would want to learn how to scroll using blades with teeth so fine that it is difficult to determine their direction! Use coarser blades.

 

[boysie39]

I must say that when I started off a few months ago I was using Steve's method for finding top or bottom of my blades ,still do really , then I began using the Ultra Reverse from Mike's and they have a dimple on the top which makes it pretty easy to get them right way up . :roll: I still out of habit run my finger on the blade BEFORE I mount it in the saw :lol: force of habit I suppose .

Interesting what Gill said about using heavier blades ,I use No's 3-5 mostly on a few occasions I have used a No. 7 .I find it easier to manouver the thinner blades , I suppose with practice it becomes easier to use the heavier blades to do the work I am using the 3-5 for now .Something to strive for :lol: .

 

[stevebuk]

it depends on what you are cutting eugene, i cut a lot of 3/4 beech/oak and i use no 7 ultra reverse, but if i was cutting thinner stuff i would change my blade down according to that..

 

[Wilder]

Sorry, folks, but I cheat! I ordered reverse FD blades from Mike and found that I just couldn't see of feel what way up to put them.......... so I bought a magnifying glass!

Stevebuk - interesting that you mentioned using No 7 on 3/4 inch oak. I have been having trouble using No. 5s, so I will give 7s a try.

 

[stevebuk]

Sorry, folks, but I cheat! I ordered reverse FD blades from Mike and found that I just couldn't see of feel what way up to put them.......... so I bought a magnifying glass!

Stevebuk - interesting that you mentioned using No 7 on 3/4 inch oak. I have been having trouble using No. 5s, so I will give 7s a try.

you could also try the #9 too, but you get less sharp turning area so just need to watch those inside cuts too..

 

[Gill]

The stroke length for the Rexon is only 19 mm so you will need all the help you can get in clearing sawdust when you cut 3/4" oak. If you're not already doing so, I suggest you use skip-tooth blades.

 

[JimiJimi]

I'm surprised anyone would want to learn how to scroll using blades with teeth so fine that it is difficult to determine their direction! Use coarser blades.

Hi Gill

I was given a handful of blades when I bought the saw so I'm just using what I have got.

Jimi

 

[Gill]

Ah - I see ! Generally speaking, it's a wise move to use scroll saw blades of which you know the provenance. Niqua, Flying Dutchman, Pegas, Olsen and Pebeco all tend to be brands you can trust and which will cut well. Blades from unknown manufacturers (often ones which retailers package with new saws) are noted for performing poorly.

 

[Carter Johnson]

Here's why a person uses very, very thin blades. This stamp is cut with 8/0 jewelers' blades. This, I think, is the smallest-sized stamp issued in the U.S. I carry a couple of these puzzles in my pocket at all times and give them out wherever I want to be remembered.

Carter

 

[boysie39]

Carter , that is so fantastic . Others may have but I have never seen anything like that albeit in a short scrolling career but in a pretty long lifetime .

What scroll saw, timber?? if any and most of all what magnification . I am going to Google you ,

Thank you so much for showing .

 

[Gill]

Carter's jigsaws are magnificent. I wish we could buy such cheap postage stamps in the UK. I'd love to hear suggestions for what we might use as an affordable alternative.

 

[marcros]

what about used stamps- particularly commemorative ones? or look on ebay for some green shield/co-op etc stamps. They will have no value anymore, so for the price of a stamp you could probably get an envelope full. even if you needed half a dozen to make up the size it would be worthwhile.

could the post office print you one of the new style ones with a value of a penny?

 

[RoyB]

Hi Gill. I have been making the small jigsaws for a while and initially I bought a pack of old stamps from WHSmith but now use photos that I miniaturise. I can't for some reason (probably operative error ) post photos but I can send an email with some examples if that would help. Carter was a great help advising how to make the puzzles and he very kindly sent one of his postage stamp puzzles over.
Roy

 

[stevebuk]

Hi Gill. I have been making the small jigsaws for a while and initially I bought a pack of old stamps from WHSmith but now use photos that I miniaturise. I can't for some reason (probably operative error ) post photos but I can send an email with some examples if that would help. Carter was a great help advising how to make the puzzles and he very kindly sent one of his postage stamp puzzles over.
Roy

if you email them to me Roy i will put them on here for you..

 

[Gary Morris]

Lovely jigsaw Carter, what are the dimensions, it looks quite tiny?
Can you still buy low value stamps? I know you used to be able to, they were used to make up postage to a certain value. I still have some 1p ones somewhere.

Gary