First full kitchen build

[mahomo59]

I have my first full kitchen build underway and so far so good, fingers crossed.
The gist of it...popular doors on butt hinges. I think I have the odd twist in the odd door. Therefore when closed the meeting of the doors are not spot on! What catches magnets etcwould you guys suggest? That look professional, like they should be not as an after because of door twist! Face frame are all internally flush with carcass.

 

[RobinBHM]

Its hard to be sure doors are twisted when carcases are sitting on a workshop floor, it can be surprising how door fit alters when in site. Having said that, youve got the carcases and front frames all lined up so they are probably quire a good guide.

Its not really useful to disguise door twist with magnetics, it can be done with 2 catches, one at and one at bottom, or a stop at the bottom. However 2 catches on a base unit door is not good in operation, it needs quite a pull to open and if its the bottom of the door it will just stick out, nobody would bother to push the bottom in.

Adjusting the hinges in or out slightly can make the meeting stiles flush on a door pair. Its always best to fit the hinges initially with just one screw and then populate the others later, at the front or back of hole to suit adjustment needed.

 

[Yetty]

Similar to Robin, if there's door twist, I normally try to offset the hinges, sometimes it works, double doors more of a pain... I find insetting all the doors and drawers behind the face-frame by say a millimetre gives this process more wiggle room.

If twist still showing, then I quickly move on and make a replacement door. I think why fight it... Done this a couple of times and I soon became a lot more picky about the door-frame preparation and glue-up!

Looking good...

 

[Zeddedhed]

On a cabinet I made recently with the doors the same as yours (flush to face of cabinet fitted on butts) the tops of the pair of doors fitted fine but the bottom of the LH door stuck out by a gnats whisker - less than 1mm.

I removed the door and sanded it out. You do end up sanding almost halfway up the door and most of the way back to the hinge side to make sure it doesn't show.

Probably a shocking cheat but it wasn't a paying job, it needed to be finished quickly and I'd had enough of it.

 

[custard]

I have my first full kitchen build underway and so far so good, fingers crossed.

Is this a professional job? If so the very best of luck to you, I hope it leads to many more commissions.

 

[Woodmonkey]

Looking good. Agree with yetty, if its only one or two doors then I would remake them. They look heavy, give me a shout if you need someone to help with fitting it.

 

[RobinBHM]

I have my first full kitchen build underway and so far so good, fingers crossed.

Is this a professional job? If so the very best of luck to you, I hope it leads to many more commissions.

+1

Ps progress shots always welcome

You might find green mdf for panels easier for finishing.

I think drawer fronts are usually made with the stiles running through, by convention, however if painted It makes little difference.

I generally find tulipwood which has green streaks in it, or whitish, the best, mildest timber. Tulipwood that is a dirty grey I find woolly and poor quality.

 

[mahomo59]

Great guys. I'll keep the phots coming... Stiles and rails, thanks for pointing the drawer fronts out, what was I thinking!!! Must have been exceptionally hot the day they got made.

 

[mahomo59]

Re mrmdf - normally use the stuff over brown all the time. Robbins timber had a delivery the day I turned up and mrmdf buried deep in pallets...so I took the brown. Hoping it won't be too much trouble, I've been using Morrell for a few years now and love it. Sprays and hand coats very well. WB of course

 

[Billy Flitch]

One procedure you could include in the assembly of the units is before you fit the face frame is to stretch a string line across the carcase so it forms a X. The top string should gently press on the string underneath because they are both trying to occupy the same place.
Doing this will guarantee that both gables are set parallel to each other. you could also eyeball from one gable to the other to see if there is any run out. When you fit the face frame then you will know that any twist is in the door or the fastening of it.