Finish on lever caps

[MikeG.]

Take a quick look at these two planes:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-...d=262795519259&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

The one on the right has a chrome-coloured plating on the lever cap, which is peeling off. What is this finish? What can be done to restore it, or is it best removed? If it needs removing, is it just a question of sandpaper, wire brush and elbow grease? If you remove it, do you end up with the same sort of finish as the one on the left (ie just bare steel, needing polishing)?

I ask because mine is starting to look a bit tired, somewhat like the one in the photo.

 

[NazNomad]

Quite possibly nickel plated. Sand it all off and wax it.

 

[Ttrees]

Makes a change hearing one who cares about the finish, instead of using it to undo their cap iron screw
There was a thread here the last month or two, that gave some info on the nickel rationing during the world war... 2?
It may give a clue on what the alternative was ?
Tom

 

[AndyT]

Like Naz said.
This thread may help - some of the pictures have been photobucketed but some of mine are there.

another-cleanup-question-lever-caps-t73625.html

 

[Bod]

Pre WW2, Nickel plating.
Wartime to mid 50s, ground & lacquered, some claim Cadmium plating.
Post 1956, Chromium plating.

To repair finish, take to a Chromium Plating firm, and ask their advice, and cost.(only when sitting down!)
For everyday use, wire wheel, and scraper, emerying down any sharp edges, there will be plenty.

Bod

 

[D_W]

wire wheel to remove any loose nickel and then a buffing wheel with a mid-cut compound (like a 5 micron aluminum oxide compound). It'll look decent, have some wax over the polished cast part that's showing due to the loss of nickel, and it won't cost you much.

You'll appreciate the wheels for other things in the future.

If you're a high roller, you can use a scotchbrite deburring wheel instead of the wire wheel, but at true brass wheel might be better for an operation like this (low cost brass wheels around here are generally hidden mild steel where the brass color is either plating or some kind of coloring over the steel. Presumably, brass wheels wouldn't spark).

Millers falls caps always shed nickel like that, and I was always able to get something decent with the above process. Goodbye paint if there is any, but you have to compromise somewhere.

Best part about buffing is if the lever cap gets a little discolored, just hit it with the buffer again. If this is a one-time event and you have no buffer, you can get by with an arbor that will run the wheel on something else (drill press or in a hand drill, etc). Thanks to horrible fright, 6" buffers are about forty bucks here, and worth having.

 

[ED65]

Here are two examples of the look you can expect from a light sanding, wire wheeling and buffing:

The thinner the plating the better the result IME.

 

[lurker]

I am beginning to get worried about you Mike.
For years you have consistently avoided fancy tools and bling
Are you turning into a tackle tart?


Just file it off, give it some wax and get on with making stuff

 

[MikeG.]

Don't worry lurker, it's not for me. I'm planning on running some workshops for a few locals who have expressed an interest. I'm thinking of starting with fettling some cheap rusty ebay and car boot planes with them, to teach the proper setting up of bench planes. They'll probably like turning up with a useless rusty lump and going away with a shiny razor sharp tool. If I am going to be showing them how to do the rest of the plane, someone is bound to ask about the lever cap.

 

[thetyreman]

for mine I just use a brass wheel on mhe grinder, can't be bothered with sandpaper first, it's always worked well.

 

[MikeG.]

for mine I just use a brass wheel on mhe grinder, can't be bothered with sandpaper first, it's always worked well.

That's gets the chrome off OK?