Few More photos Of Repaired Cills.
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LBCarpentry
Established Member
Does that cill have a bevel??
Run off, no as I say just a stop gap until I make the replacements proper. I should be able to do the 9 degree cills using the bandsaw, or using an angled jig on the thicknesser. If neither method produces satisfactory results, then will have to look around for a cill block to use on the moulder.LBCarpentry":vm60awbk said:
........ Yes... but just bought a new Axminster trade series AT107PT planer thicknesser, cast iron tables, both adjustable and 3 knife block....£1200ColeyS1":1g33zl3n said:
I was told before bought, the disposable knives were all set and machine ready to go. I checked when came the knives were all at different heights. 4 little grub screws to adjust the height....... on no.... please...not again!
That said, I knew could use HSS blades and resharpen them. Also these blades rest on little springs, push down on top of knife, place the setting jig on top to hold the knife at correct height to cutter block. I was under the impression that using the knives and setting jig would be easy peasy 123.... all automatic..... not so. I was very careful how I did it all, holding the setting jig firmly down on the knife edge, so no chance of knife changing position, while I tightened up the cap screws to hold everything in position. Using the ruler movement method, the knives didn't move a consistent amount. One moved 4mm another a whopping 12mm!
I got onto Axminster, thinking the cutter block hadn't been machined or cast correctly. Said they would collect machine, take back examine then redeliver. They wouldn't do that straightaway, only when the next delivery/collection round comes.
Out of frustration I'm not going to be going down the route of getting a spiral cutter head another £500 on top.
Doing some other stuff just at moment, but intend to see if can do a bit of checking myself on cutter block using digital calipers, depth gauge etc.
I am intending to post later today more details about the problems with the knives and the new surface planer and how I've been trying to solve the problem.
Anyway, bla,bla I'm reluctant to feed any timber through the spindle that is not square and true.
Really very annoyed about the new machine, as everything has ground to a halt.... again.
I used a rebate block tilted over for around 15 years and made 100's of windows and doors in that time. You'd be better off buying some tuition on setting up the planer instead of buying a dedicated cill block imho. I admire your determination.
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
I don't think settings those blades are easy peasy compared with tersa blades but it's usually a straight forward process. From memory I think the trick was not to fully tighten the blades straight away. I dont know if this will be relevant to your blade clamping system but this is how I did it on a previous 3 planers.
Put the blades in and just get them caught with the lightest amount of pressure. Use the setting up jig to get the height right. Tighten let's say the far end of the block a smidgen, move to the middle get the height correct and tighten a little more then do the same on the end that's closest to you. Get your block of wood out and check the ends and middle are moving the same amount. Remember the blades are caught but they aren't proper tight so if one end is a fraction too high a block of wood resting on the back edge of the cutting bevel and a gentle tap should move it sufficiently to get it in the right position.
Keep going through those motions. Tighten the far end a little more, then the middle etc etc. You might have to do this 10+ times so the clamping system doesn't drastically move the position of the blade suddenly. Increase the pressure over the cutting length gradually adjusting early on in the procedure to get the heights correct.
With out seeing your cutter block I can't say for certain yours will be the same. I never looked forward to changing blades, it was just a process that had to be done.
Tersa blades however........... as quick as you can read this, is how long they take to change.
Turn of machine and enable cutter block to rotate.
Tap securing wedge 1 then 2, 3 and 4
Slide out planer blade
Either rotate blade to the second new cutting edge or insert a new one.
Slide back in
Repeat process for the remaining 2 cutters
Job done.
Total time taken, probably under a minute if you had everything to hand.
If you want easy peasy then tersa blades. The reality is though you're not in a position where time is money. Changing the blades for an hour after tea isn't gonna stop production that much. Chances are if you're only making the one batch for yourself then 1 set will last the job. Unless you're planning on making joinery for a living it begs the question why the heck would you bother throwing money and something that would only save a couple hours (on this job) like a cill block, or tersa blades, or anything that's a luxury instead of a necessity to get the job done.
You know what, if the jobs painted why not just join plain square 4 x2 for the frames and nail and glue stops/moulding to form the frame rebates. A chopsaw to mitre the stops/moulding and a nail gun to fix them on. It'd still be a good job, would save your hours and hours of time and headache. By the sound of it you're thinking of nailing a stop on the cill anyway to form a rebate, just do the same for the uprights and the top bit.
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Put the blades in and just get them caught with the lightest amount of pressure. Use the setting up jig to get the height right. Tighten let's say the far end of the block a smidgen, move to the middle get the height correct and tighten a little more then do the same on the end that's closest to you. Get your block of wood out and check the ends and middle are moving the same amount. Remember the blades are caught but they aren't proper tight so if one end is a fraction too high a block of wood resting on the back edge of the cutting bevel and a gentle tap should move it sufficiently to get it in the right position.
Keep going through those motions. Tighten the far end a little more, then the middle etc etc. You might have to do this 10+ times so the clamping system doesn't drastically move the position of the blade suddenly. Increase the pressure over the cutting length gradually adjusting early on in the procedure to get the heights correct.
With out seeing your cutter block I can't say for certain yours will be the same. I never looked forward to changing blades, it was just a process that had to be done.
Tersa blades however........... as quick as you can read this, is how long they take to change.
Turn of machine and enable cutter block to rotate.
Tap securing wedge 1 then 2, 3 and 4
Slide out planer blade
Either rotate blade to the second new cutting edge or insert a new one.
Slide back in
Repeat process for the remaining 2 cutters
Job done.
Total time taken, probably under a minute if you had everything to hand.
If you want easy peasy then tersa blades. The reality is though you're not in a position where time is money. Changing the blades for an hour after tea isn't gonna stop production that much. Chances are if you're only making the one batch for yourself then 1 set will last the job. Unless you're planning on making joinery for a living it begs the question why the heck would you bother throwing money and something that would only save a couple hours (on this job) like a cill block, or tersa blades, or anything that's a luxury instead of a necessity to get the job done.
You know what, if the jobs painted why not just join plain square 4 x2 for the frames and nail and glue stops/moulding to form the frame rebates. A chopsaw to mitre the stops/moulding and a nail gun to fix them on. It'd still be a good job, would save your hours and hours of time and headache. By the sound of it you're thinking of nailing a stop on the cill anyway to form a rebate, just do the same for the uprights and the top bit.
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RobinBHM
Established Member
Do I see a nice small window, ideal as a starting point to make your first window!
