Fettling a TSPP250

[JWD]

Hi everyone!
I received a table saw a couple years ago - record tspp250 - historically not the best in the world but it was free so hey ho.
I'm thinking of stripping it and replacing the arbour bearings as the blade has a bit of a wobble and i cant set a new fence square to the blade and tracks etc etc
As i'm doing this i'm going to make a decent effort at the dust collection within the cabinet

looking to ideally spend <£60 and that includes new bearings, fence and rails and maybe a blade but i can live without that just now.

I'd love to get some advice on the best bearing brands to go for and also if anyone has ever done this themselves and run into any issues?

many thanks in advance
Joe

 

[Myfordman]

I suspect that virtually all bearings are made in China and the like so it more a case of choosing a brand that possibly imposes good QA. SKF is a good name as is NSK. Make sure you get rubber sealed bearings suffix RR or 2RS
Loads of bearing factors on line as well as ebay I tend to use Bolton bearings for keen pricing. Simply and Bearing boys give good service at slightly higher prices and tend to stock odd sizes.
Arc-Euro trading is run by a good chap who does not stock any tat.

good luck

 

[Alexfn]

I have the same saw but under the fox brand. I had to disassemble it to move it. So far i havent had much time to get using it but it took a lot of fettling to get it back up and running.

I also have a bit of blade wobble.i think the pull feature is partly to blame for this.

My main issue is it seems underpowered. Mine will sometimes stall cutting 60mm pine.(this is with a brand new blade) Have you had any experience of that? Im not sure if its the belt slipping or the motor is underpowered or on its way out.

I will follow this thread. Any advice from any other owners would be welcome.

Joe feel free to pm me. Maybe we can pool our research and what we learn to get these machines running sweet.

Thanks

Alex

 

[Ttrees]

I had some issues with blade wobble, and I could not set the blade to the miter slots because of this.
I sorted this issue by giving the flanges a very light quick lap on a plate and likewise took some crud off the blade also.
Be careful lapping the flanges as they are hollow ground and meant to only touch the blade on the outside.
I sorted the fence by setting it to the miter slots by shimming the brackets with biscuit tins .
Hope this helps
Tom

 

[JWD]

Thanks for the quick responses guys!

looking to start this faffing late may so wont be super active until then, other than getting some designs for a fence and rails together.
i'd previously got a new blade mounting bit which improved it slightly, but ideally i want it within a few thou of perfect which isn't too much to ask from a 10 inch saw. So ill give the mounting flanges a light lapping on a superfine stone which fingers crossed will help
I hate the pull mechanism its pretty pointless and i might go as far as fixing the carriage in place if it will improve stability, not sure how I'll do it without a welder but there's always a way!

I'm going to replace the bearings then see how true the spindle runs, if its off does anyone recommend i go at it with a coarse stone set square to the table and just see if a light contact will help?

again, many thanks for your responses
joe

 

[JWD]

Yeah Alex i'll be in touch when i've got my exams out of the way mate

 

[Ttrees]

I would find float glass or dead flat surface and use fine wet and dry for lapping, not on a stone.
I only done this for a few seconds and turned the flange about five times in sequence during the time.
I used an adjustable square for checking the blade ...stumpy nubs has a video on this.
This lapping made a huge difference to me, as picking a tooth and running the square down the slots, there was huge variants .

 

[JWD]

ah ok yeah ill try and get hold of some thanks!
just to be clear By flanges you mean the supporting pieces either side of the blade? my knowledge of engineering terms is abysmal

joe

 

[Ttrees]

Spot on
Good luck