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Fence for Drill Press

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Teejay

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Hello there, I am designing a fence for my drill press and am looking for advice.

I would like to know what I should use to connect a sacrificial fence to the table that can be connected to the t-track. The fence itself is likely going to be made of 18mm plywood.

The height of the fence will be 10cm and length 61cm. I need something which is sturdy and wont allow the fence to move out of 90 degrees to the table.

This is the design and dimensions:

 

galleywood

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What is sacrificial about the fence?
Why not make it of L shape section buttressed for rigidity?
 

MikeJhn

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Knowing what I know now I would recommend the table extends beyond the pillar and the fence is split in two to allow larger piece's of work to be accommodated, its surprising how often you need just that extra bit of depth.

Also there are some very tall aluminium sections available that you could make the whole fence from rather that try to attach a T track.
 

Teejay

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Thanks for your replies.

What I mean by sacrificial is that the wood on the fence will be replaceable.

I know that a lot of people say the table should extend beyond the pillar but I plan on being able to use this to hold lengths of wood parallel to the drill press to drill holes in the end and if I did what you suggested that wouldn't be possible. In reality, this shouldn't be necessary because the proportions of the table relative to the positioning of the point at which the drill press comes into contact with the table should make this flexible enough.



Splitting the fence is something else I have been considering and may actually do depending on what I end up using to mount the wood and t-track top section to. I know people have said that this makes it easier to drill small pieces but if the drill got too close to the fence, surely you could just use a spacer like you would on a sliding mitre saw?

What sources do people use for their aluminium sections like that required in this case? Do you have particular examples of the specific design you have in mind?
 

Trevanion

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I think the way your design is currently it isn't actually possible to hold it down to the track, you've got nowhere for some locking handles or knobs.

Galleywood's idea is spot on the money.
 

Eric The Viking

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This is my work-in-progress. I had to dig around to find the SketchUp file - 2008 and I still haven't started it! I will make a few changes before I do make it, even now.
drilltable-full-view.gif

Basically, the extension behind the pillar is to allow the fence to be easily clamped. I'll probably move the long crossways track up a bit, to make it easier for hold down clamps (it's mainly for stop blocks), and contrive a removable extension to the fence, to the right, again for stop blocks. The T-track doesn't need to be full depth front-to-back either. One advantage of a wooden table is the ability to easily slip a clamp on as necessary -- I'll save my T-track, I think. And only slotting it half way across will greatly improve the physical strength.
drilltable-rear.gif

I don't think you need anything complex, but you do need to keep stuff as square to the drill quill as possible, so the fence will be as rigid as I can make it.

Plan B will be to forget the front-back track altogether, and cut slots, sither in the table or the sliding fence supports, as it's simpler and probably stronger.

Obviously (I hope) the fence is cut down on the right to stop it fouling the three operating handles. On my drill press they're kept slightly greased so they unscrew easily, but it's still a bit of a nuisance.

HTH, E.

PS: If you're wondering why I haven't done it yet, the press is not kept in the workshop, and where it is now, space is limited - I haven't room for the drill table as shown! I've got rid of the morticer recently (which did double duty as a drill press too), so I'll have to have a re-think, and if it moves into the 'shop properly, then the table project is back on again...
PPS: The thin lines are only for alignment in SU - they aren't structural in any way. And yes, the "drill bit" isn't on both axes properly at the moment. I was very green at SU when I drew this up, and the drill head and quill is one big component. Something slipped, obviously. No biggie though.
 

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MikeJhn

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Teejay":ndf6frt6 said:
Thanks for your replies.

I know that a lot of people say the table should extend beyond the pillar but I plan on being able to use this to hold lengths of wood parallel to the drill press to drill holes in the end and if I did what you suggested that wouldn't be possible. In reality, this shouldn't be necessary because the proportions of the table relative to the positioning of the point at which the drill press comes into contact with the table should make this flexible enough.

What sources do people use for their aluminium sections like that required in this case? Do you have particular examples of the specific design you have in mind?
I have no idea what you are saying about making the table so it extends beyond the pillar preventing you holding lengths of wood?

Aluminium sections, something like these: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products ... lsrc=aw.ds these came up within 5 seconds on a search in google, there are hundreds out there if you care to look, this is even on the same RS components page: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products ... lsrc=aw.ds
 

Nelsun

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Banggood.com (if you're prepared to wait ~10 days) is a very cheap source of aluminium extrusion. I went for a low fence (2020) for normal operations and have an 8020 piece that swaps in when needed. FWIW, Benchdogs.co.uk do some flip-stop type gizmos that fit the extrusion slots perfectly but I had to source some smaller knobs as the ones supplied extend over the sides of the extrusion and can foul the workpiece.

For the base I went with Incra t-track as it takes the standard hold downs and Festool type track clamps.
 

shed9

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http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/ is a good source for alloy extrusion, delivery can be steep but I've used them for decades with no issues at all. Also given your location you may actually be close by to collect. They have a good understanding of why people buy the alloy and can often help deciding best dimensions to go with relevant to use.

The Bosch type is Rexroth compatible (if important) and the Item type is a little cheaper but given the length you are looking at, it won't make much difference.

Also you could double up on your fence having a fixed MDF / Ply back and another MDF / Ply spoil board that fixes onto the front. It would mean you don't have to mess about re-fixing the t-slot track, you would just need to cut several boards of that size to fix to the front - if any of that makes sense?

I'm actually redoing my own setup again and taking note of other approaches being discussed on the forum. At the moment I'm swaying towards a raised mini MFT type top to use clamps.

Eric The Viking":6usax1z9 said:
2008 and I still haven't started it!
Comforting words to some of us.
 

Teejay

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Thank you all for your contributions.

Loved the SketchUp design, I am impressed at how much of your drill press you managed to draw. I didn't even try because I knew it would be a lot of extra work.

When I say I don't want to add parts that go around the pillar, I am talking about turning the table over like in this image:



I don't think some of you realised that I was asking for a way to connect the fence to the table. I have seen l shaped aluminium and profiles but couldn't decide on the best way to go. I don't know how I would connect the wooden fence to the aluminium profile and my existing t-track hardware from the underside. I have lots of UJK Technology T-Track and accessories ready for this project including a flip-stop.

Aluminium-Profile seemed cheaper than Banggood.com when I checked them both out. It looked like something of similar dimensions on Banggood would end up being about £80.00 compared to £15.59 for the length I need.

Then there are subtle differences in design that I cannot figure out which would be better, like on this page:

http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acat ... l#aIR02604

Would 40x80 IR Range Aluminium Profile or 40x80L 2N IR Range Aluminium Profile be better?
 

AndyT

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Do you have a lathe? It's very easy to set one up for what you want. I followed a Robert Wearing design which was an adjustable box above the lathe bed, with a fence.
 

Peterm1000

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When you do make that fence, don't forget you need space to turn the handle for the drill... Mine is only about 40mm off the table at it's lowest point. In the pictures, it looks like it is going to hit the fence when you turn it.
 

Teejay

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AndyT":1e091ii4 said:
Do you have a lathe? It's very easy to set one up for what you want. I followed a Robert Wearing design which was an adjustable box above the lathe bed, with a fence.
Unfortunately not!

Peterm1000":1e091ii4 said:
When you do make that fence, don't forget you need space to turn the handle for the drill... Mine is only about 40mm off the table at it's lowest point. In the pictures, it looks like it is going to hit the fence when you turn it.
I am going to have to check this out!

Can someone please tell me which type of aluminium I should go for? What are the differences between the two that I linked?
 

shed9

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Teejay":1kg7njhh said:
Can someone please tell me which type of aluminium I should go for? What are the differences between the two that I linked?
The L refers to light weight and the difference is less material on the inside of the extrusion. For a fence L is fine.

The 2N refers to how many (and often where) the tracks within the exterior of the extrusion is plain aluminium, i.e. blocked off for want of a better description.

40x80L (ref: IR02634) is fine.

I would also recommend a pair of 4080 brackets to make it easier to connect you fence to the table; http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acat ... ml#SID=310 this may be moot as you may already have an option. Just be aware the bracket have fixed holes that you will need to interface to your table if you went this route.

I would also add that whilst I am a huge proponent of designing / building a bespoke solution do note that the costs of this can sometimes outweigh that of an out-of-the-box product like a Woodpeckers table package.
 

GrahamF

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Peterm1000":18i2lkol said:
When you do make that fence, don't forget you need space to turn the handle for the drill... Mine is only about 40mm off the table at it's lowest point. In the pictures, it looks like it is going to hit the fence when you turn it.
Another advantage of lower fence is it also avoids the chuck hitting it when drilling close.

Also, if you move the circular sacrificial table insert off centre, you can rotate it and get far more use before replacing it.
 

Teejay

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I'm going to have to revise the design of the fence somewhat. I checked the dimensions and it looks like I'm going to lower the height of the fence around the handle and lose some of the length of usable t-track that would have been useful combined with the 10cm high flip stop.

This is really frustrating but also better to realise now than later on.
 

Teejay

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Eric The Viking":17uytjjb said:
This is my work-in-progress. I had to dig around to find the SketchUp file - 2008 and I still haven't started it! I will make a few changes before I do make it, even now.

Basically, the extension behind the pillar is to allow the fence to be easily clamped. I'll probably move the long crossways track up a bit, to make it easier for hold down clamps (it's mainly for stop blocks), and contrive a removable extension to the fence, to the right, again for stop blocks. The T-track doesn't need to be full depth front-to-back either. One advantage of a wooden table is the ability to easily slip a clamp on as necessary -- I'll save my T-track, I think. And only slotting it half way across will greatly improve the physical strength.

I don't think you need anything complex, but you do need to keep stuff as square to the drill quill as possible, so the fence will be as rigid as I can make it.

Plan B will be to forget the front-back track altogether, and cut slots, sither in the table or the sliding fence supports, as it's simpler and probably stronger.

Obviously (I hope) the fence is cut down on the right to stop it fouling the three operating handles. On my drill press they're kept slightly greased so they unscrew easily, but it's still a bit of a nuisance.

HTH, E.

PS: If you're wondering why I haven't done it yet, the press is not kept in the workshop, and where it is now, space is limited - I haven't room for the drill table as shown! I've got rid of the morticer recently (which did double duty as a drill press too), so I'll have to have a re-think, and if it moves into the 'shop properly, then the table project is back on again...
PPS: The thin lines are only for alignment in SU - they aren't structural in any way. And yes, the "drill bit" isn't on both axes properly at the moment. I was very green at SU when I drew this up, and the drill head and quill is one big component. Something slipped, obviously. No biggie though.
What's the extra tall bit on the left of the fence for with two t-tracks?
 

Teejay

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Thinking about it, I'm not sure that the fence heightis a problem if you just lower the table more and then have to rotate the handle more to get to the bottom of the hole?

If it is, I have come up with what I think is a good design compromise allowing for the handle rotation. It allows for full length t-track usage along the face of the fence and potentially clamps or things to connect to the aluminium profile on the right hand side. My concern with this is that once I route the channel for the t-slot, I have 8.5mm of material to clamp the fence to the aluminium profile and don't know if that is sufficient.

I decided I needed to go for 40x40mm with 8mm slot rather than 10mm based on the other hardware I have and the clearance required.

Still have no idea how I would connect the aluminium profile to the fence or table though.
 

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Sideways

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How about something like this ?
Dovetailed T track, two bits of aluminium angle and extrusion of your choice.
Image00002.jpg

Image00003.jpg

I just want a fence that adjusts to allow me to drill a series of holes a consistent distance from an edge. 20x40 is fine for that.
I woulld make a different jig maybe in 80x40 (or even 40x160) to hold parts vertically for end drilling, but those are biggish extrusions and take up too much space as a permanent fence.

Should say that the vacuum hose doesn't do anything useful in that position. It just parks the end close to hand. I need some short hose that is easy to bend and stays put :)
 

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Teejay

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Thanks for sharing your design, I see you are using the same hardware I have lined up for this project (except I haven't gone for the dovetailed t-track).

I have checked and I can use a standard length t-slot bolt and handle to secure the aluminium profile on the right hand side but not on the left.
 

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