Fence for Drill Press
- Thread starter Teejay
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Thanks for your replies.
The twist handles you suggested are the solution to that problem of tight access and I already have some too!
Still not sure about connecting the wooden fence to the aluminium profile, especially given that there is 8mm of wood to secure into from the fence into the profile and any fixing used would have to be countersunk so that the t-track can be fitted flush in front.
The twist handles you suggested are the solution to that problem of tight access and I already have some too!
Still not sure about connecting the wooden fence to the aluminium profile, especially given that there is 8mm of wood to secure into from the fence into the profile and any fixing used would have to be countersunk so that the t-track can be fitted flush in front.
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user22161
Established Member
user22161
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Its big and offset enough to drill 2" holes without damaging the top.
powertools
Established Member
Personally I don't understand why people go to such lengths to make something as simple as a drill press table so expensive and complex.
Okay, I think I have worked it out.
I can use my existing t bolts for this, although I will have to cut doen the size slightly to 55mm from 75mm.
I will add screw threads to the back of the fence enabling me to usecore screws to secure the fence to the aluminium profile. KJN527174 S8x25 T40 Core Screw (10pk) 1.
These slot onto the profile and are then secured using a screwdriver/allen key through a hole drilled all the way through the aluminium profile.
Talking of which:
IR02633 40x40L IR Aluminium Profile
I mock tested my drill press and found out that I have more height than I thought so my design has been modified accordingly.
Does anyone know how deep screws should go when using the Axminster t track (not dovetail)? Is 8.5mm sufficient? Also not sure what size screws they take.
I can use my existing t bolts for this, although I will have to cut doen the size slightly to 55mm from 75mm.
I will add screw threads to the back of the fence enabling me to usecore screws to secure the fence to the aluminium profile. KJN527174 S8x25 T40 Core Screw (10pk) 1.
These slot onto the profile and are then secured using a screwdriver/allen key through a hole drilled all the way through the aluminium profile.
Talking of which:
IR02633 40x40L IR Aluminium Profile
I mock tested my drill press and found out that I have more height than I thought so my design has been modified accordingly.
Does anyone know how deep screws should go when using the Axminster t track (not dovetail)? Is 8.5mm sufficient? Also not sure what size screws they take.
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Teejay":2oir0xgy said:
For what it's worth, as you can buy these things on one day delivery for modest money, I used M4 (I think) machine screws x whatever length you need to go right through and put a nut on the back. Stainless with torx socket countersunk heads. No question then about pulling the track out. Small screws have small threads and I figured there could be some significant pull up on a piece of T track when it's used for clamping.
In smaller sizes and stainless fittings, torx sockets strip less easily than hex socket heads.
That's a good idea. I don't want to have to mess about with enlarging the holes in the t-track though, I'm having to deal with enlarging small holes in piano hinges and it's a nightmare because I haven't yet found a way to do it accurately and neatly despite trying to deal with it using my pillar drill.
Eric The Viking
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T-track is a PITA: If you can't use the pre-drilled holes you are left trying to countersink any new holes you do drill, through the narrow slot in the top of the track (see an older thread of mine, somewhere). I ended up with a long strip of emery cloth and the drill press, reducing the diameter of a not-hardened cheapo countersink, so it would fit. In retrospect (as suggested at the time) I might have done better by regrinding a jobber drill to the right angle (for aluminium, I'd probably also need to ease off the relief angle, too, to stop it digging in).
On the piano hinges thing, clamp it down with a sacrificial bit of material - something like aluminium bar stock. Locate the hinge under the quill using an offset peg (to fit one of the other holes), so you can drill through "blind" but accurately. At best it will need a jig, and you might need lubrication to minimise chatter, and the right speed too.
I've got some cheap piano hinge I've used for tool boxes, and it's horrid stuff: thinly-chromed steel that's difficult to cut neatly and which rusts if you stare at it hard. It wouldn't be possible to countersink screws into it, either, as the steel is just too thin. Thankfully, for my application (somewhat "agricultural") it doesn't really matter, but I can't imagine another use for it - would look rather nasty on furniture, for example.
Almost forgot: My "universal" solution for improving the finish of holes in metalwork is Trefolex cutting compound. One tin will last you a lifetime, but that combined with some decent Dormer or SKF jobber drills (and drilling into something like a hardwood block underneath (sacrificial - make a fresh hole every time), will make a big difference to the quality.
You might also drill upside-down, by which I mean go in from the back side of the hinge. This is because a jobber drill will tear thin metal upwards mostly, so the damage will otherwise be on the side you see, rather than against the wood when it's finally fitted. If you have to take a file to the burr, it's probably better to do it where scratches won't show. I'd try both, but not be surprised if neither gives a terribly nice result tho.
On the piano hinges thing, clamp it down with a sacrificial bit of material - something like aluminium bar stock. Locate the hinge under the quill using an offset peg (to fit one of the other holes), so you can drill through "blind" but accurately. At best it will need a jig, and you might need lubrication to minimise chatter, and the right speed too.
I've got some cheap piano hinge I've used for tool boxes, and it's horrid stuff: thinly-chromed steel that's difficult to cut neatly and which rusts if you stare at it hard. It wouldn't be possible to countersink screws into it, either, as the steel is just too thin. Thankfully, for my application (somewhat "agricultural") it doesn't really matter, but I can't imagine another use for it - would look rather nasty on furniture, for example.
Almost forgot: My "universal" solution for improving the finish of holes in metalwork is Trefolex cutting compound. One tin will last you a lifetime, but that combined with some decent Dormer or SKF jobber drills (and drilling into something like a hardwood block underneath (sacrificial - make a fresh hole every time), will make a big difference to the quality.
You might also drill upside-down, by which I mean go in from the back side of the hinge. This is because a jobber drill will tear thin metal upwards mostly, so the damage will otherwise be on the side you see, rather than against the wood when it's finally fitted. If you have to take a file to the burr, it's probably better to do it where scratches won't show. I'd try both, but not be surprised if neither gives a terribly nice result tho.
Use T nuts: https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-4-pr ... lsrc=aw.ds much more secure and easier to fit than counterboring for conventional nuts, rather than try to increase the countersunk hole in the track, re-profile the bolt head.
