Faceplate Screw Advice

[PsyMan]

Hi All,

Can anyone point me in the right direction to the best type of screws to use for attaching a 6" faceplate to bowl blanks.

I have tried a few different types and have had normal wood screws shear off in the blank meaning abandoning the job or in one case I turned it out around the offending screw.

I bought a mixed box of sheet metal self tapping screws and found they are either too small on the head or the head rips out easily.

A UK amazon or ebay link to a decent pack would be much appreciated and could save a lot of trial and error as well as a lot of wasted wood.

I am turning between 6 - 14" by 3 or 5" thick from logs if thats relevant and will possibly be going a bit bigger when I get a better lathe.

Faceplate I use is the 6" SM42/ACC6 at the moment.

Many thanks in advance

PsyMan

 

[myturn]

I use ordinary wood-screws but always drill a pilot hole first. I've been using the same 4 or 5 screws for 2 years and never sheared one.

When do yours shear, on insertion, removal or during turning?

 

[CHJ]

Although there will no doubt be many along advocating the use of coach screws and the like for their robustness, and for work requiring a lathe such as a VB36 a lot depends on how big and unstable a blank you are starting with.

I have found that reasonable quality wood screws have held all of my stuff, beware of some of the bulk purchase quick start screws which can be brittle and shear off readily.

Daft as it might seem the best screws I have found for regular use on lathe work are to be found in the DIY bulk boxes at Lidl, 30 or 40mm., in my experience resist shearing failure well.

 

[PsyMan]

Thanks for the replies, mine shear on removal, maybe I will buy some better quality wood screws then and drill a proper pilot hole.

Since I obtained my new Bandsaw the blanks have become a lot more stable though, I think I have been put off wood screws by using the bulk B&Q trade pack ones and having them shear.

I think thats answered my question, you get what you pay for

Cheers

PsyMan

 

[myturn]

If they shear on removal they are most likely binding in the wood and a pilot hole will prevent that.

Welcome to the forum by the way

 

[chrisbaker42]

I also use the bulk ones from Lidl and have never had a problem, the pilot hole is obviously important.

 

[PsyMan]

Pilot holes it is, fairly obvious once its pointed out, thanks

 

[cornucopia]

I use allot of faceplates and never pilot hole any screws- i use a self tapping steel screw with a square head drive, if i'm driving the screw into somthing really dense i simpley dip them into some pastawax then drive them in but 99% of the time i just drive them in as is-i buy mine from Melvyn firmager.

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

I use bulk ones from B&Q and have had no issues.

 

[duncanh]

I use Spax (or similar) screws from B&Q. 30 or 40mm and fairly wide. I don't bother with a pilot hole.
I've been using the same set to ages but don't use faceplates very often.
I use the same screws for holding lead counter weights when I'm doing off centre work and I've never had a problem doing this or using faceplates.

 

[Harlequin]

For big pieces in particular I use stainless steel screws
I sometimes half turn the piece and come back to it after a while so find the stainless screws a reassuring option(rust etc) - many can be reused anyway
Note that some of the usual woodscrews can have a weak neck which can shear off easily.

 

[nev]

I'm with DuncanH , SPAX every time for me, and not just for the lathe work. they are strong, self drilling and have decent heads for driving/ removing. I wont use anything else
go to your local builders merchants, probably cheaper than B&Q, (maybe?)

 

[hgb]

Hi Pst Man
I always dip screws in grease before using - this makes them easier to remove.
HGB