Electrolytic derusting my experience (wip)

[Green]

Hi

A few questions:

1. Does this only work with DC current?

2. What are the minimum/maximum voltages?

Just trying to make sure I have this right before proceeding as I think electricity is the work of the devil.

Cheers

 

[Digit]

I think electricity is the work of the devil.

Thank God! No more stoking! :lol:

Roy.

 

[punkrockdad]

theres loads of information on google. the only thing i noticed after reading a few of them is not to use stainless steel as the positive. it can create poisonous gases and the electrolyte is also then considered a hazardous waste. but one chap did recommended it as it didnt rust!! I suppose the lesson here is to read as many different accounts / methods as possible.

I've recently used it to clean up an old bench vice. Came up lovely!! One thing I did learn was that it appears to work on 'line of sight'. ie 4 large plates of steel surrounding the object tended to work better than one bar in the corner.

Another warning sign of introducing different types of metals into solution is the colour of the debris. It should only be orange / brown. Any other colours I'd tend to be wary.

 

[Green]

Thanks Punkrockdad.

I had read a few guides and was lead to believe that stainless was a good idea. Thanks for the advice, I will look around for some old iron instead.

 

[maltrout512]

You say that after a while you can dispose of down drain or in garden. Now not being a nerd I use this method for cleaning coins and artifacts that I find while out metal detecting, and when touching the cleaned objects that have been in the solution always wash hands well afterwards. You use in a well ventilated area because of the harmfull gases given off. Now if there are harmfull gases being given off then the solution will be harmfull. So care should be taken at all times. Been there done it and even got the shirt as well.

 

[George_N]

You say that after a while you can dispose of down drain or in garden. Now not being a nerd I use this method for cleaning coins and artifacts that I find while out metal detecting, and when touching the cleaned objects that have been in the solution always wash hands well afterwards. You use in a well ventilated area because of the harmfull gases given off. Now if there are harmfull gases being given off then the solution will be harmfull. So care should be taken at all times. Been there done it and even got the shirt as well.

The vast majority of the gases being evolved at the electrodes will be hydrogen and oxygen from the electrolytic breakdown of water. This is a highly flammable and potentially explosive mixture so that is why good ventilation is essential.

 

[Dibs-h]

Seems a bit risky to me. The way I clean carbs is, (don't tell the wife) the dishwasher!

Roy.

Daz non-bio is fantastic for cleaning gunk off engine parts - :-$

 

[jefword]

Hi,
Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I found it through Google and joined your forum for a bit of advice on this subject.

I have recently been given my fathers WW2 Royal Marine Commando Knife, It's a Fairbairn Sykes MK 2 with a knurled brass handle and is very rusty.

I have left it in an oil bath for a week and scraped it with a flattened copper pipe so as not to damage the steel but without much success.

I do not wish to take it apart as this will damage the top nut and would then not be original.

If I was to suspend it in an electrolytic bath as described, would this damage the brass.

If so, what if the knife was only dipped to the hilt leaving the brass out of the solution, would that be ok.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Cottonwood]

You could use a wax resist to prevent the electrolyte from touching the brass of the handle. I used that technique frequently when I worked in a plating factory doing hard chrome finishes on the inside of cylinders but leaving the outside unplated. Simply coat the handle and finger guard (ie everything but the exposed blade) with wax, eg dipped into a pan of molten wax or painted on then suspend in a vat as mentioned earlier in the thread. I never knew chromic acid to affect the wax, not sure what would happen after immersion in washing soda. But the elctrolysis process will ruin exposed brass, its only for ferrous items

 

[MMUK]

1. Does this only work with DC current?

2. What are the minimum/maximum voltages?

I know this thread is 5 years old but seeing as no-one answered this.....

1. Electrolytic derusting and electroplating (same principle as derusting but the electrodes are connected the opposite way round) will only work with direct current. The current must flow only in one direction to pull the rust away from the work piece.

2. The voltage of your power supply isn't too important as you are limited to the redox potential of the metals you are using. What is more important is to have a decent current output.

Also, for faster electrolysis, use flat plates with a larger surface area instead of allthread.

HTH :mrgreen:


BTW, electrolysis won't clean fuel deposits from carbs.

 

[Harbo]

You could try other methods like Phosphoric acid or the Shield Technology chemicals that Workshop Heaven sell.
The latter will not damage brass.

Rod

 

[jefword]

Hi, Thanks for your advice. I think I will try the Shield Technology rust remover first.
Will let you all know of the result.
Thanks again.

 

[Harbo]

The Gel works quite well on small stuff as you apply to the surfaces you need to work on only. And quite easy to redo if not all rust removed.
I think it brings up brass nicely too - but check?

Rod

 

[Rhossydd]

Impressive Rod,

Is that the finish straight after the gel or did you have to do anything else ?

 

[Harbo]

That's the liquid but I've used the gel on other things and it worked just as well ( no photos though).

Rod

 

[andersonec]

This maybe a stupid question, but will it work for aluminiumn composites?

No, steel only.
Also, make sure you do not use stainless steel for your rods.

Andy

 

[tool-me-up]

Done this a few times myself, Normal table salt also works well as the electrolyte - the more you add the stronger the electrolyte and the better the current is passed.

For a tub of that size I would be looking to DISSOLVE 2 to 3 of the large tubs of table salt ( you can heat the water first to help it dissolve )

I use a PC power pack around 600w with both the 12V and 5V rails connected to the electrodes
guide here
http://www.instructables.com/id/Converting-a-computer-ATX-power-supply-to-a-really/

You can also use this method to "acid etch" metals, by waterproofing the parts you dont want etched in waterproof tape or similar.

See here for a demo http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To- ... ctro-Etch/

 

[John Brown]

both the +12V and +5V rails connected to the electrodes

Do you mean the same electrodes? If so, how does that work?

 

[tool-me-up]

both the +12V and +5V rails connected to the electrodes

Do you mean the same electrodes? If so, how does that work?

pretty sure both to same electrode - the way a powerpack for an ATX pc works will then give you 17volts if you connect both the red and yellow wires - just make sure to use both black wires for the earth.

It was a while ago so here is the guide for yourself
http://www.instructables.com/id/Converting-a-computer-ATX-power-supply-to-a-really/

 

[tool-me-up]

both the +12V and +5V rails connected to the electrodes

Do you mean the same electrodes? If so, how does that work?

It was a while ago so here is the guide for yourself
http://www.instructables.com/id/Converting-a-computer-ATX-power-supply-to-a-really/

I've edited previous posts because I cant remember exactly how I did it so follow the guide for yourselves - I did get it working though and was out putting 17v checked with a multimeter