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240 x 75 ? depth on the elevation and width from a estimated proportion to the 150 post?
 
This is another great thread scotty. Ps what size is the main curved beam can't see on the drawing!
Thanks Johnny. The size of the main beams off the top of my head are 5.1 long, 300 deep and 100 thick. The Oak is arriving from France in 2-3 weeks so it’ll all kick off then. Thanks for the interest
 
Is it me or is france the source for amazing bits of wood.
My understanding is that both France and Germany set out and grew forests as an agricultural crop, well maintained to grow tall clean trees (few knots) and certainly in my experience it has worked, but if you want a piece of Oak with character and interesting grain it tends to come from the uk. The Chinese buy a LOT of the European Oak and sell it back to us as crappy low end furniture.
Ian
 
I knew someone would have a copy! Just hope my memory of the event is correct haha.
I've seen it somewhere too, if not in Sturt it could be in "The Village Carpenter" - Rose https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/The_Village_Carpenter.html
I'll have a read. Both excellent books.
What's interesting about the idea is that things can be made accurately and precisely, but without a tape measure, no measuring or calculating anything.
So e.g. for a chest of drawers you could turn up with your lath and a pencil and take marks directly from its proposed position in a room, for the width, height, depth. Then back at the bench, with the aid of simple sketch design, or just the idea, turn that into a fully detailed accurate and precise rod, with aid of straight-edges and dividers.
Being able to count would help, but even that not necessary as you could make the traditional marks of 4 vertical strokes and a horizontal through, for 5, with your fingers for a check, (if you still have all of them).
 
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I'm pondering how that's going to be shaped but I'll wait for the next exciting installment.(must be with the spiNdle)

Yeah it’ll be the usual template on top of the stock and run round on the spindle. I’ll put the 4” block in but instead of the ring fence I’ll have to use the follower. I’m not the biggest fan of the follower as I can’t regulate the cut like you can with the ring, however, it does have its plus sides and it’s the fact you can cut from anywhere on the block that I’ll use this method. I have the room in the machine shop but only with the follower, i won’t be able to swing the 5m on the ring fence cutting point without the top or tail (or both) hitting other machines.
All will be documented as well as I can when i kick off with the very first processes.

Scotty
 
My understanding is that both France and Germany set out and grew forests as an agricultural crop, well maintained to grow tall clean trees (few knots) and certainly in my experience it has worked, but if you want a piece of Oak with character and interesting grain it tends to come from the uk. The Chinese buy a LOT of the European Oak and sell it back to us as crappy low end furniture.
Ian
French oak is softer than English and faster growing die to it's latitude and climate. Straighter and fewer knots too.
 
I think I would be concerned with the off kilter weight after it's bandsawn close to the template. Must be an awkward thing. Maybe 2 helpers. Anyway don't spoil it.
 
I think I would be concerned with the off kilter weight after it's bandsawn close to the template. Must be an awkward thing. Maybe 2 helpers. Anyway don't spoil it.
You need some rollers that fit sure probably 4-5 each side of the SM.
 
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