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Einhell table saw - should i return it ? hack fix ?

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ajrpc

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Hello,

I've bought a Einhell TC-TS 2025 U table saw, and after mounting it i've realized that the table top it's not totally flat. I've used a digital angle gauge to check that. You can see it on the following videos.

[youtube]3o_TYLtecvU[/youtube]

[youtube]Ihvk1OgYgLE[/youtube]

My question is, is it normal because it's a cheap table saw? If I return it and buy a new one i probably get another one like this ? Or it's definitely normal even for a cheap saw and I return it and ask for a new one will it be flat ?

How can i hack/fix the table top to become totally flat ? Suggestions for buying a new, more expensive saw are not welcome because i don't have money. I have to fix it or return a ask for a new one.

Thank you in advance!

Regards
 

Spence

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I can't get the links to work, but if its bad enough that you battled with this site to host a video then probably best to return it!
 

Trevanion

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To be honest, I wouldn't expect any more out of a 250mm table saw that's under £100. It's been made in China, complete with blade, table, stand and motor, shipped to the UK all for the princely sum of £100.

You'd struggle to feed four people in a restaurant here for £100.
 

powertools

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To be honest I don't understand why anybody would buy a sub £100 table saw and then check it out with a presision gauge and expect it to be as well made as a saw costing many times the price.
From what I can see in your video you have a usable saw within your budget just get on and use it and enjoy.
 

ajrpc

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Thank you for your help. So from your answers i may conclude that returning it and asking for a new one will not solve my problem, because its normal for the price range.

So i only have a solution that is try to fix/hack it. Any ideas? Maybe put a mdf/plywood sheet on top?
 

Trevanion

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The reason question you should be asking is, does it actually matter? I don't see what will stop you from making acceptable cuts from having a slightly less than flat top.
 

ajrpc

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Do you think i can make acceptable cuts with this angle error ? Isn't big ?

I think straight cuts will become with an angle and when joining two pieces will not join correctly. It's the first time i have a table saw so i don't know
 

novocaine

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It's pressed steel with no support frame. bend it back to straight enough and crack on. you might need to add some shims beneath the table and the tin box it sits on. you can put a piece of MDF over it, you'll reduce your depth of cut but it will give you a flatish surface to work from. you'll have to make your own fence though.

you are going to have far more worries than the table being straight. the arbor will have a wobble, the fence won't be square to the blade, the mitre slots won't be either and the blade that it came with will cut for a few hundred cuts at most before it's as much use as a butter knife. It's a cheap saw, it will cut as well as any other cheap saw does. this is in no way slating your saw, it'll do ok and with patience and care you'll get ok, repeatable cuts from it, I know because my saw isn't much better (it does have an aluminium top though)
 

paulrockliffe

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I had this saw for a while, I sacrificed some thickness and dropped a piece of 18mm melamine-faced chipboard on it because the top is very poor. That and a decent blade and you'll get decent cuts.

You lose the fence, but to be honest you'll find the fence is going to have more impact on your cuts that the top, so that's no bad thing in my view. Score a reference line onto your top and clamp a straight lump of wood to the top as an easy fence, or do something more permanent/quicker to setup. Make a fence with two pieces so you are left with a step behind the blade so you're not trapping the work.

From memory I setup the top by adding blobs of gripfill when I sat the board on so the board wouldn't bend to the top when I bolted it down.
 

ajrpc

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novocaine":1b3wnwv8 said:
It's pressed steel with no support frame. bend it back to straight enough and crack on. you might need to add some shims beneath the table and the tin box it sits on. you can put a piece of MDF over it, you'll reduce your depth of cut but it will give you a flatish surface to work from. you'll have to make your own fence though.

you are going to have far more worries than the table being straight. the arbor will have a wobble, the fence won't be square to the blade, the mitre slots won't be either and the blade that it came with will cut for a few hundred cuts at most before it's as much use as a butter knife. It's a cheap saw, it will cut as well as any other cheap saw does. this is in no way slating your saw, it'll do ok and with patience and care you'll get ok, repeatable cuts from it, I know because my saw isn't much better (it does have an aluminium top though)
Thank you novocaine. It was a great help and motivation. I will try to make those fixes. I will also build a new fence. As for the blade, i've bought a good one for fine cutting.
 

ajrpc

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paulrockliffe":1xyehlhv said:
I had this saw for a while, I sacrificed some thickness and dropped a piece of 18mm melamine-faced chipboard on it because the top is very poor. That and a decent blade and you'll get decent cuts.

You lose the fence, but to be honest you'll find the fence is going to have more impact on your cuts that the top, so that's no bad thing in my view. Score a reference line onto your top and clamp a straight lump of wood to the top as an easy fence, or do something more permanent/quicker to setup. Make a fence with two pieces so you are left with a step behind the blade so you're not trapping the work.

From memory I setup the top by adding blobs of gripfill when I sat the board on so the board wouldn't bend to the top when I bolted it down.
Thank you very much paulrockliffe! I think i will try to put a board like you did. I'll make a fence and i already have a good blade i bought afterwards.
 
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